This old thread got revisited. @dani_m08 to answer the question about extra probe, I believe I ordered an extra one when I bought the set up. The probe wire is just setting in the junction box I think but honestly I cant remember. When I laid out the underfloor heating and the probe, I just ran another probe near the first probe, and it was then sealed into the floor self leveling compound as per instructions. then the end was just threaded into the wall like the one that would be live, and not connected, but just laying there in the box. Regarding the tile layout. I just decided to run it this way, after getting instructions on the 90Degree way, IIRC. The herringbone that I love is from my childhood and the side walks in my neighborhood that all ran at 45Degree. so that to me is herringbone. I know you posted on @sochi thread about her amazing bathroom and a wall mounted faucet. I would totally do it if I had the right sink for it. In my case I had made my sink out of soapstone and an integrated backsplash. The pictures of this bathroom reveal are no longer available because of the use of photo bucket, when it was Gardenweb. I did not keep my account with photo bucket. I'll add some of the reveal pictures so you can see the sink and floor. Regarding the sink there is no ledge for water to drip from my hands when using the faucet. The water drips right into the sink. In my other bathroom with a deck mounted faucet I am always wiping up drips and it is a nuisance. I much prefer the setup for this sink. Below: I love the flush finish from the faucet to the bottom of the sink. nothing drips on a counter or edge of a sink. Below: looking in from the doorway. Below: Here I am finishing up the sink. the backsplash was epoxied on as a separate piece. The whole soapstone install in the room took next to nothing to buy as they were all small pieces that I epoxied together with a 3 part stone epoxy. Below: this is the counter at the tub, and is in 2 long pieces but I was able to epoxy them together at there edges to make a wide slab for the top. All the soapstone was finished with a 60 grit sandpaper to be rough and this lovely soft tone of blue/green/gray/white. I did not oil it so this color tone would remain light. Below: If I recall correctly @sochi helped me decide on this Hubberton Forge Mirror. I have 3 different metals in this room, but they are all a cool silver to black color. Below: the center of this tower shares space with the kitchen on the other side of the wall. there is also some extra space that houses some electrical wiring. this is an old simple house. this bathroom was an add on when it got move to the farm in the 30s IIRC. The plumbing was all rearrange and some of the details that were orignially there I kept but updated it, such as this tower feature. The old one went and the carpenter did a wonderful job with this one. Below: This feature was another thing I kept from the old bathroom but flipped it from the other end and had the carpenter put drawers in it. Before it was a hell hole. things got lost and the build was soooo old and creapy I didn't like using it for storage. Now it is perfect for storage.

Would it be bad to use something like this, even though it is an older style? I am a huge sucker for black and white anything. I don't want to spend a lot of money (not that this is a lot of money at $5.75/square foot at home depot) and then still have the room look like it has the original tile, in case we sell. I like this too, for the same reasons...this is more expensive though, at $15.39/SF (for sale here: http://www.fastfloors.com/catalog/productline.asp?wid=FG8N2D2&productlineid=17937&productid=126165: I also like this, but I'm suspicious of the price ($5.48 for 11.25x11.25). Is the quality bad? this is at home depot. Would marble be better? Or granite? I have no idea what to do.

I agree with eld..there's a reason the middle mirror is there. Can you paint the frames while they're on the wall? I mean, without taking them off? I wouldn't know, but it's not like am a big specialist in painting. If yes-then maybe makes sense painting them first too. Logistically speaking. I still would try to at least find the wall color by the time I'm painting the mirrors...to know what I will be working with. Color of trim/your blinds will work nice; but what if you want to paint them in your wall color, just in different sheen? Will make them less prominent too. Although I suspect they are much more proportional that they seem; the color is throwing them off, because it's very different from the rest, and it makes you concentrate on it=the mirrors seem heavier than they really are. All the greiges that other people describe as perfect greiges-were too cool for me. No Elephant Breath, no Dove Wing, no Revere Pewter-they were very nice when I put them on the paper. Very greige. The moment I taped the paper to the walls-they became simply gray. And I didn't want gray. I wanted greige. Well. Long story short-The room I wanted to be greige turned out to be the room when I mixed my own custom color..:) I don't know how it's called, I named it myself. I just went warmer and warmer until I loved what I saw. I'm afraid it's trial and error. Forget how they call the color, at some point...just try shades that might work, to your eye. You'd be surprised how little resemblance some paint colors bear with their names. And I agree with eld that your mistake is an easy fix. Really. I'm stuck with a prison-cell-looking-window in one of the rooms, because my husband insisted the grids of the window should be proportional to the grids of another window:) Now he agrees with me the grids should be proportional to the window itself, but it's too late lol.

I would stick with nickel for all the knobs, in both rooms. Black will look very stark with your other options, and in your bathroom, the floor gives you enough darkness. Round is better than square for knobs because over time as they need to be tightened, the square ones get crooked. I like your third lighting option, which looks more sophisticated. I would wait on the bathroom mirrors until you see the completed space. At that point, it will be more apparent whether metal or wood frames are better, and what shape/size is best.