Okay, let’s talk corn
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Growing Two Types of Corn
Comments (1)If you are talking two varieties of sweet corn, for example, a mid-season and a late-season variety, then no, no problem. You are just extending the season. If you are talking about a sweet corn and a flour corn, probably no problem--they will probably tassle at different times (a sweet corn listed as 95 days to maturity means the sweet stage, milk corn, and a flour corn listed as 95 days means dry stage--anyway, the sweet corn would tassle and ripen later than the flour corn). If you are talking about an old-fashioned sweet corn and a new-fangled suggary enhanced super shrunken head honey dripping tasteless sugar cube corn that ripen at the same time, supposedly the cross-pollination will make the sesshhdtsc corn tough. Don't know. Never tried to grow it, as you can kinda read my opinion of the flavor in my description there. And finally, crossing different varieties MAY cause slight differences in flavor and texture (after all, you are eating the seed, and the seed is where the change is developing), but unless you want to plant those seeds next spring and grow a new crop from them, it doesn't really matter one way or another. You are eating the evidence, after all. Catherine...See MoreLet's Talk about Late Bloomers....
Comments (23)I don't want anyone to think I was saying people should not post their bloomers no matter what zone they were in. What is not helpful information for me in my garden might be just the thing to know for someones elses garden. As far as what I have gotten in late bloomers. I went for all those Olallie late ones that they list as September bloomers. Then I do have some growing here I hope will be the right bloom time. I have Richard Norris' CORAL MAJORITY which should bloom late. Bloomed here its first year (put in this spring) around peak bloom. But I did get late bloom from Brian Culver's VICTORIANA and Melanie Mason's GUAVA JELLY. Both new this spring. JUM MURPHY's LAST CHANCE FOR ROMANCE is listed as very late and just bloomed. I also have Jim's ALCHEMIST, should be late but first year flowers bloomed earlier. I have Don Herr's IN HIS HANDS listed as late blooming, bloomed earlier on first year plant. I have Bret Clemment's BLAST FROM THE PAST, has not bloomed. New this year listed as very late. I have FINAL DESTINATION from Karol Emmerich. Blooming now. Then I have 6 Dale Thomas intros that I put in late this spring from Perfect Perrenials in PA. Dale hybridizes in PA zone 6 and these all should bloom in August as listed as late and very late. Bloomed at peak bloom here their first year. Hope thats not going to be the trend with them as I really liked the flowers on them and would really be liking to see them in August when there was not much going on here. Even early August would be wonderful. I liked them so much I would like to find more of them but they seem impossible to find. I also would like to find some of Betty Harwoods late bloomers but again, impossible to find. I feel this was a small start to my plans of expanding bloom here into August. Sime I have so many "normal" season bloomers and don't have room for 200 late bloomers (do that many truely lates even exhist?) it means I will probably never have as much bloom in August as July but I will work on it. This of course, doesn't count rebloom. I have no idea when and how much rebloom I will have here as the northern hybridized "guaranteed" rebloomers were just put in this year and too new too rebloom. The exception seem to be many Emmerich intros that are just as new but have rebloom scapes currently....See MoreWeek 3, May 2017 General Garden Talk,
Comments (90)I'm so far behind I'll never catch up but I did read everything and I'm keeping my response minimal since it is time to start this week's new thread. Amy, Time off from a garden can be good. We all work too hard at this time of the year. Hazel, The best way to dig is with a special potato fork that has rounded edges on the prongs so they don't stab the potatoes, but I'm too cheap to spend money on a tool I'd only use a handful of days per year, so I used a transplanting spade with a rounded edge. Start further out than you have been and proceed slowly and with patience in order to avoid cutting into potatoes. Just use the cut ones first as sometimes they do not scar over and heal (though sometimes they do) and the ones that don't scar over will not store for long. A tomato knife is essential for someone who grows and processes as many as I do, and I did find one yesterday. I had to buy an entire cutlery set to get it, but it was an inexpensive set so I didn't mind. I wanted that tomato knife. I am going to go online one day and order a couple more. It is just I have tomatoes piling up everywhere now and need to be able to quickly cut them and use them and the tomato knife makes it easier. Melissa, Don't worry about being behind. Some years are just that way. We all have to work with whatever weather conditions we get. I am so sorry about your niece's injuries and will keep her in my thoughts and prayers. What a horrible way for her summer to start. I saw the story on the news and was horrified at the thought of those kids being in that bounce house when that happened. Jerry, That is an amazing corn story. Sometimes plants can be so resilient and I think often that many gardeners are too quick to write them off and either yank them out or plow them under instead of letting them recover on their own. Nancy, In your case, because of all the rain you have received, it is a good thing that the tomatoes are not closer to harvest. If they were, the excess moisture likely would ruin the flavor. Flavor is best if they are kept pretty dry as they approach harvest. So, for me, as much as I lament the lack of rainfall down here, it isn't really a bad thing for the tomatoes as it means their flavor compounds won't be watered down and they won't be suffering from cracking and splitting either. The first time I grew Mexican sunflowers, I wasn't prepared for how big they'd get. I space them much better nowadays so they don't crowd out everything else. Our dear, sweet Mary normally grows a ton of veggies and cans all summer long, both of which are a huge amount of work, of course. She is trying to take off this season in order to recover from what I'd describe as a major cardiac event so hasn't been posting here much. I was so happy to hear from her the other day and to know she is going to have a few plants. I think plants can be great therapy as someone recovers from a medical issue, as long as you have the self-discipline not to overwork yourself while tending those plants. Mary, if you read this, I keep you in my thoughts and prayers and hope you make a full recovery so that next summer you can be back to your usual growing and canning. Amy, It is odd that cabbage refuses to cooperate with you. It is about the easiest thing I grow. I just plant them and forget about them, which is easy to do if you grow your brassicas under netting to exclude the cabbage worms and such, which I do. When they're ready, I harvest. I do plant cabbages with short DTMS in the 60s-low 70s so that they finish up fairly early here. That's more because I want to put a sucession crop in their place before the weather gets too hot than anything else. When I've grown varieties with longer DTMs, they've done fine too and I've almost never had a head of cabbage try to bolt. Rebecca, I'd just cut off all the damaged leaves and let the Brandy Boy put out new growth. It likely would be fine. Nancy, Cucumbers planted late will do fine. I planted my pickling cukes late on purpose (just last week I think, or at the end of the week before), except for 2 early plants I planted in late March, so that I could spread out the canning load. The cucumber plants from the seeds I just sowed will not be producing a harvest until I'm through canning tomatoes, which was my goal. Having too many things that need to be canned all at once can be a real problem, so I try to control the canning workload by using planting dates to spread out the harvest. You even can get a good cucumber harvest from cucumbers planted in July down here, and I expect it is the same up there. My honest opinion is that if you want more sun, get your sweet husband to cut down that tree now. As time goes on, the shade situation just worsens. I speak from experience. Now that you two both are enjoying gardening so much, it will be important to maintain sunny areas for your veggies, fruits and sun-loving flowers. There is a place in each landscape for both sun and shade, and too much shade (though shade is highly desirable in our hot summers) is not a good thing. Okay, it is Monday moring and I'm headed off to start this workweek's new weekly garden talk thread. Dawn...See More2020 Let’s see those C’s
Comments (55)This may be my favorite letter yet! All the clematis, coreopsis, campanulas... such color and loveliness! sandyslopes, I Just planted Crystal Fountain last year. So looking forward to the blooms! babs, your Roguchi is beautiful! I have one in a pot that needs to go in the ground. I hope it looks like yours someday. Pink Chiffon clematis, aka Hayley Hybrid. This one never stopped blooming last year! NOID. I call this one “Not Niobe” Lol. Coreopsis moonbeam. New to me this year. Grows like nuts. Divided one 4” pot into three plants, each was a full size blooming machine by the end of summer. Also calibrichoa....See More- last year
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