Speaking of . . . Carrots!
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HAVE: Carrots: Solar Yellow, Little Finger, Rainbow Blend
Comments (4)Hi Cryptid, Checking back in. I sent an email, but haven't heard back, although that may not be your fault. I seem to have issues with GW email. Do I need to resend my info? Thanks!...See Morecarrot fly
Comments (9)Well I got this advice just after i had planted a nice new bed of Carrot Adelaide, smack in the middle of the CRF second egg laying season. I wasn't expecting this bed to do anything much, so imagine my surprise when I accidentally pulled a handful of perfect carrots while weeding the beets in next area. The following day I pulled the entire bed, and found only a few carrots infected with CRF larvae!!! Did I just get lucky and miss the fly because of warmer, earlier season? Or did I pull the carrots when Adelaide SHOULD be pulled, at a small baby carrot size? Combination? So I steamed them and we had them with yellow beans. DH said he could eat them 5 days a week, (DH speak for 'worth all the fence pole digging, manure hauling, and weed whacking') DTAB (dear teenage boy) agreed, with his mouth full! So I guess the two other beds I have planted, following Nandina's advice re sugar and coffee will be eagerly awaited. Todays crop, with the larvae infested few at top. This is a nice change!...See Morered carrot, white beet, watermelon radish . . .
Comments (13)Catherine, I have only seen the persimmon in California's Central Valley & south. Here's what the CA fruit growers say: "Origin: The oriental persimmon is native to China . . . It spread to Korea and Japan many years ago . . . The plant was introduced to California in the mid 1800's. "Adaptation: Persimmons do best in areas that have moderate winters and relatively mild summers--suitable for growing in USDA Hardiness Zones 7 to 10. It can tolerate temperatures of 0 F when fully dormant. However, because of its low chilling requirement (less than 100 hours), it may break dormancy during early warm spells only to be damaged by spring frosts later. The leaves are killed by 26°F when growing. Trees do not produce well in the high summer heat of desert regions, which may also sunburn the bark." They are pretty trees but that tendency to break dormancy after only a few warm days looks problematic. I find it interesting that the persimmon is classified in 2 groups - astringent and non-astringent. Boy, they've got good reason for that! Apparently, the astringent varieties are not necessarily bad - they just require full ripening. Conversely, non-astringent types are not necessarily good. Confusing . . . I enjoy whatever they have in the produce aisle when they are still somewhat crisp. I could be wrong but it looks from Wikipedia that the American persimmon isn't grown for fruit - golf clubs and billiard cues yes, fruit, perhaps no. The pawpaw is a different genus & species. See, that idea that fruit trees take too long has come back to bite you (I don't really know if that was your thinking, Catherine, but I've heard that so many times from younger people.) My apple butter is from a tree that I planted as a young guy at my place then promptly dug up and moved to my father's backyard. It is now about 35 years old. Actually, it is the last of the dwarf/semi-dwarf trees I moved there. I bought an apple for Mom & Dad not long after they moved to that house. It has been gone 6 or 8 years now. The Northern Spy survivor once had a sister which grew but didn't want to make fruit. Dad always seems too willing to attack trees with a chainsaw to my way of thinking. That tree went out the gate about 10 or 15 years ago. The French plum was damaged by a lawn mower incident and then began to have serious peach borer problems. It was such a fine tree that Dad cut it down and replaced it. That 2nd plum is now about 20 years old and usually produces really well. The peach tree didn't have borer problems but fire blight weakened it every year. It died without ever producing a single fruit. We planted a doughnut peach a couple of years ago. It is going great guns as is the white peach in my own backyard. I had big hopes for that one this year but it still hasn't set any fruit - only about 4 years old now. One thing seems to be for sure, as night follows day, seasons follow season . . . Like sands through the hourglass . . . blah, blah, blah . . . but even a little tree on dwarfing root-stock can ripen boxes and boxes of fruit after the kids have grown up and left . . . Okay, so that means they have a reason to show up during harvest anyway. digitS'...See MoreDo I need to segregate my varieties?
Comments (6)I concur with Remy's book recommendation (for "Seed to Seed"); if you wish to save seeds successfully, it is enormously helpful. If you will be saving seeds of anything irreplaceable, I would make it "required reading". ;-) It might also be a good idea to check some of the other forums (both FAQ's & threads) since this topic is frequently discussed. The Bean Forum & Tomato Forum, for example, contain extensive discussions on the issues of cross-pollination, and saving pure seed. Expect to see some disagreement... in the end, it will come down to what works for you. That being said... Befreeman, you have asked a complex question, which I will try to answer as briefly as possible. Most vegetables are either "out-crossing" (require wind or insects to set seed) or "in-crossing" (will self-pollinate without help). Each group requires different treatment. Out-crossing species include: - Alliums (onions, chives, & leeks) - Beets (wind pollinated) - Brassicas (a.k.a. cole crops) such as cabbage, mustard, broccoli, turnip, raddish, etc. - Cucurbits (gourd family) including squash, melon, cucumber, gourd, watermelon, etc. - Grasses (corn) (wind pollinated) - Umbelliferae (carrots, parsnips, celery, dill) Since these species require wind or insects to make seed & are usually self-infertile, they can not be caged (unless they will be hand pollinated) so you can normally only save seed from one variety each year. Carrots, parsnips, radishes, & mustard can be especially difficult, since their wild relatives are common, and they will cross readily. Corn, since it can be contaminated by local fields, takes especially intensive methods to produce pure seed & is not recommended for the casual seed saver. Out-crossers may also be contaminated from vegetables grown by your neighbors (especially the cucurbits). If you still wish to grow more than one of a particular out-crossing species, Weed gave some viable options. If you have time in the morning to do it, hand-pollination works well for cucurbits; friends & relatives can help with the others. You can also use an "alternate-day caging" method, where you place a cage over one variety (#2) after dark, allow the bees to pollinate #1 the following day, then move the cage to #1 after dark & allow the bees to pollinate #2 the next day. Continue back & forth for at least two weeks, or until flowering has ceased. Just do some additional research; most out-crossers require a minimum population for seed saving purposes. In-crossing species include: - Legumes (bean, pea, lima, runner bean, soybean, cowpea, peanut, etc.) - Nightshades (tomato, pepper, eggplant, potato, tomatillo) These species are usually self-fertile, but a few (such as eggplant, runner beans & limas) seem to require insects to some extent. However, many in-crossers will cross-pollinate heavily if grown in close proximity; limas, runner beans, eggplant, and peppers fall into this category. They should be treated the same as out-crossers (grow only one), or in the case of peppers, caged to exclude insects. As for beans & tomatoes... there is considerable disagreement. Some people have no problems with different varieties grown side-by-side, while others have extensive crossing. Personally, I dont put much stock in quoted percentages of crossing, since this varies widely, and there are too many factors involved. I can tell you that I grow many varieties of both every year, obtained from Seed Savers Exchange members & seed swaps; and in my experience, crossing - sometimes severe - has been quite frequent. Three bean varieties last year (out of fifteen) were so badly contaminated that their seed could not be saved; as it was for one bean and three tomatoes the year before. There are also the cases of minor crossing, where I rogue out & destroy one or two crosses, and am then able to save seed. This seems to indicate that the isolation methods used by many gardeners are inadequate. I tend to err on the side of caution; better to be too careful than too lax, especially if I intend to share seed with others. My recommendation for beans & tomatoes is to use the barrier crop method (with tall flowering plants separating different varieties of the same species) and to place as much distance between them as possible. This is not as difficult as it sounds, even for those with small lots. I plant some of my rarest varieties in large pots lining my front sidewalk; the neighbors get a real kick out of my "flowers". For the tomatoes that are most likely to cross (potato-leaf, currant, and some older varieties with a protruding stigma) or if many varieties will be grown directly adjacent to one another, blossom bagging with pieces of floating row cover can be effective. For all but the smallest varieties, you don't need to do many flowers to get a lot of seed....See More- last yearlast modified: last year
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