First I paid $150 for a furnace check. Then $150 for a radon check.
2 years ago
last modified: 2 years ago
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A question about a check
Comments (29)Having fraud charges is not a joke. Several years ago I had a warrant out for my arrest for a $19.00 check. I had a "missing" book of checks so I put a stop payment put on all 25 checks at no bank cost. I also had the bank type me a note on their letterhead stating I stopped payment because I suspected they were lost or stolen. With the note from the bank and a receipt of cash payment, State Attorney dropped fraud charges. An accident but what a scare though. By the way it was my DH who had the checks in his work truck door. I'm not saying this is same situation as the posters just that fraud charges are very serious. I would suggest you pay the store cash (even though owners a a$$) and get receipt with check number substitute written by her before closing your account. But this post (mine) is being written by someone who almost went to jail. lol...See MoreTrane 5 Ton A/C and 95% Furnace Price Check
Comments (7)That price quote sounds out of line... something doesn't add up. I'm in the SouthEast, where cost of living is generally lower than most other parts of the country. For lower end equipment (13 SEER A/C with 80% furnance), I didn't get any quotes below $6,500. Most quotes for equipment that qualifies for the tax credit were generally closer to the $8,500 number. In the end, we went with a recomended private licenced contractor that got us a system to qualify for the tax credits at a cost just a little south of $8,000 and it seemed like a bargin. Equipment cost sounds about right, but the labor cost seems low. The worry there is that it's an installer that might be taking short-cuts to come in as a low bidder. What I learned from my experience in getting the HVAC system updated is that WHO is installing the equipment is more important than WHAT is getting installed. Basically, I've been told that most manufactures are getting major components (like the compressor) from the same source. But it's also possible to take short-cuts to get a system installed. A short-cut system WILL run. But the prognosis for long life isn't as good. Basically, you can get a longer life with cheap equipment installed correctly than you can from expensive equipment installed poorly. So my advice to people who are looking to replace their HVAC system is to get a quote from three or more places. No one can properly quote an HVAC install without a sight visit. Use that time of the sight visit to in effect interview the company/installer. You SHOULD get quotes that are all about the same even if the equipement isn't exactly the same. Ignore quotes that are "out-of-line", and then of the quotes that are left, ignore cost and go on your instincts on which contractor is likely to do the best job....See MoreHave You Checked Out Your Dryer Lint Filter & Vent? Check Out My
Comments (20)Been there, done that...lint is such a HUGE annoyance to my life. We're in a 2nd floor condo where the dryer vent ducting goes to the roof through the attic over 20 feet and several elbows. My husband bought the condo years before we met, and the ducting was clogged after several years. At the time, he decided to disconnect the vent from the duct. The resulting moisture did some damage to the cabinetry (swelling of the particle board, even under layers of oil-based paint). Soon after we married, he decided we needed to fix the problem correctly. He went up into the attic and disassembled the ducting, brought it outside, and blew it out with his air compressor. I pushed some cleaning tool through it as well. We can't be doing this regularly! I mean preferably, never again! So, I had him put a filter -- a gallon paint strainer -- over the dryer vent where it connects to the machine. This clogs every month or so, we pull the machine out, disconnect the vent, clean the strainer, and put it back. This is still an annoying chore, but not the nightmare of dealing with the whole duct run. My husband had a cool idea, that what we need to do is sew a new, longer strainer that tapers to a skinny point, so that even when it clogs at the point, there can still be air flowing past the clogged strainer, and we should be able to go longer between cleanings. We got a new dryer last summer, and pulled the ducting out of the attic to clean it -- but it was already clean as a whistle. So, our secondary filter system has kept the duct run clean for 9 years. I found you can buy secondary lint traps with a door that opens to clean them out, but we don't have room to install the box in our laundry room, and I don't think it would work any better or be easier to clean than our homemade filter. When I redo the floor, I plan to put magic slider thingies under the dryer feet to make it easier to move in and out, plus I won't want to gouge my new floor. I have researched other solutions. People claim that solid metal vent will maintain better airflow than pleated, but I think it will still clog because we need 2 90-degree elbows to get it connected to the duct in the wall. And if it clogs, how do we pull out the machine with a non-stretching vent? If we could move the duct in the wall to match the dryer vent outlet, that would eliminate 2 elbows and would probably help... I also found you can install a secondary fan in the ducting near the exit, increasing the airspeed in long ducts so the lint won't clog. They cost $150-200, but if I never had to clean out the duct run or pull out the dryer to clean my makeshift secondary lint trap ever again, it would be well worth it. I also think that our ducting is leaky somewhere, because rooms on the other side of the wall (our master bath) get crusted with lint all the time. Finding and sealing those leaks would probably improve airspeed some, plus save me tons of work cleaning the lint all the time. I think the additional fan is the way to go. In 2 other areas where we replaced an ineffective low-cfm cheap fan with a high-cfm good one, like the hood over our cooktop, it made an amazing difference, night and day. Here is a link that might be useful: example of dryer duct fan...See MoreMy KD came in at $180,000 when he knew my max was $150,000-PART2
Comments (54)I think the plan holligator did has some good options. If you did like somebody suggested and put openings on each side of the stove you'd also have a view into the family room when cooking. This plan keeps traffic out of the cooking zone and all your prep and cooking happens within view of the family room. In your first plan you are stuck on the other end of the island for doing any prep and cooking with the fridge and stove where you have them so not sure how much supervising you can actually do, in that area. One other option to keep prepping and fridge out of the garage walkway would be to put the stove in the corner. As wide as it is you probably would have to move the island down a bit to have aisle space. Then move the sink down closer to the opening, and keep the fridge on its current wall, but move it away from the sidewall. Ues you loose the sink right under the window, but I think you'd love that spot for prepping/cooking and looking out the window, and at least in my kitchen I spend more time prepping and cooking than I do at the sink. I'm not seeing why the Fridge has to be on that wall as it currently is on the other wall. Seems to me it should be able to go to both....See More- 2 years agolast modified: 2 years ago
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