Paint DR set or pass?
mamajean15
13 days ago
last modified: 13 days ago
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mamajean15
13 days agoRelated Discussions
Mahogany DR Set
Comments (2)I am going to take the liberty of posting the link that Eileen forgot! Linda C Here is a link that might be useful: dining room set...See MoreMy CL find input?? Dining room table..paint now for DR?
Comments (3)Nicole, Thanks...I'd been looking for months, in furniture stores, craigslist, everywhere and nothing really wowed me that didn't cost a fortune! Liz, It's a very deep cherry...sorta like brazillian cherry...has sorta a zebra effect dark brown/black hue then the deep red. It's VERY heavy, took 3 of us to move. I think the top has a thin layer of veneer on it though from everything I could find on the FFDM site, but it's in great condition, one tiny bruise less than the size of a dime right near the corner, I touched it up with a furniture marker and now it's not noticeable at all and i'm very picky! Any idea on wall color? i'm sorta a matchy matchy person and this DEF is out of the ordinary for me, I usually lean towards very dark espresso furniture. I love color though.. My kitchen is louisburg green by BM with red accents -Valspar red , (have the color name somewhere) but it's a deep red inside very upper cabs, with glass fronts and lights..the rest of the cabs are white (wanted to make the kitchen very bright since it's gallery style and long!) The kitchen leads right into this dining room, and then into our living room which is a light taupe (prob change in the future so that color isn't important). Any ideas on what will fit with the louisburg green? I'm not a fan of just beige/offwhite, and I do love color in my life, esp greens, blues, greys, etc. (I hate purple hues or anything with a purple hint)...See MoreHonestly, Are 4 DR Tables Really Too Many?
Comments (13)A client brought the real deal of a Biedermeier style pedestal DR table into the shop for refinishing. It was massive. I never saw one that big before. I would just drool over it every time I was at the shop. Always commenting on it. Hoping that they would never return to pick it up. I think that was the reason Mr. Fox didn't even question me when I threw this at him at 6AM after I woke him up. Even after I told him how far he'd have to drive to pick it up. He just smiled and said no problem. He must have remembered....See MoreLayout help: Kitchen/DR/'porch'
Comments (15)I like this better than your initial plans because I think this suits your needs and wishes well. But it can use tweaking. Several of the aisles are tight, IMO. If you have 40" for the aisle between clean-up sink and island and 42" for the aisle between R/F (assuming these are built-ins about 27" deep with doors), you have room for a 29" wide island. You could shrink the R/F aisle to 40" but that doesn't really net you much gain. I like bmore's suggestions of moving the clean-up to the bottom wall, moving the range to the top wall (nicer view from DR) and moving the R/F to the side wall. This also helps with aisle clearances. 138" (11.5') -25.5 for sink wall cabs & counter (depth of 24" deep cabs with standard 1.5" counter overhang) -30" island (27" deep cabs with standard 1.5" overhang all around) ----- 82.5" remaining for aisles or 41.25" each for aisles. NKBA recommends 42" for one-cook kitchens, 48" for two-cook kitchens. Rhome410, one of the lay-out gurus here, has a 36" aisle between range top and island and it works well for her (despite 8 kids and various animals) but it's a range top, not a range - no oven door opening beneath it. I personally prefer more aisle in front of oven doors so that when it's open, there is room to maneuver. I would add a prep sink to the island so that you have a nice work triangle between range, R/F and prep area. The pantries are a bit far from the action but given your long, narrow-ish space, your options are limited. Here's an idea: you could add an 18" pantry cab on the R/F wall relocated to side wall and still have 24" of counter frontage before the corner and sink wall run. That would give you pantry storage for oft-used items within the working zone of the kitchen. Whoa, I just saw that the architect gave you a 12' island. That's not an island, that's a continent. ;-) How do you intend to use that much counter? If you're still considering a 2nd oven, you could add one below the counter here. I also just noticed the 3' section at the end is designated for seating. You can seat 2 people facing each other but that's only gives you the bare minimum for knee room (NKBA recommends at least 15" overhang and 24" width per person for 36" high counters). Given your husband's height, I think he'd prefer more knee space. You could seat one at the end but you'd need to lengthen the overhang by 3" - 6" to accommodate that arrangement. I am curious, though, why you're adding island seating and a cafe table if it's just the two of you. I'd be tempted to choose island seating and add another easy chair with coffee table placed between the two for a tete-a-tete space for you two. If you want table height seating, lower that end of the island to table height. Just be sure to take the NKBA minimums for 30" high counters (18" knee space and 30" width) into consideration. I'd also be tempted to make the pantry at the far right end - the one opposite the island - 18" deep, not 24" deep, to give you 48" between pantry and island, especially if this is a frequently used path. You'll appreciate the additional clearance. Do you really need 140 sq ft (assuming cabs are 84" tall) of pantry storage? That's a lot. If not, I'd make that whole run of pantry cabs 18" deep, which still nets you 105 sq ft of storage. You could also consider swapping out the center section with base and upper cabs and counter to give you a handy place to set pantry goods down (it would make unloading groceries bags more convenient). Have you tallied up how much storage you really need? If not, do so, and then configure your pantry cabs to match your needs. Here's what I'm talking about: I added windows in the little alcove across from the island to give you a nice view and to make up for the loss of a window above the range. Your DR clearances are also a bit lean. If your table is 42" wide, you only have 39" clearance around the table. If your table is 48" wide, you have 36" - that's tight. NKBA recommends 44" behind seating for walk behind space and 36" for squeeze behind space. I have 40" between kitchen table and island and it works for us but that's not the same as having only 40" between table and wall. I can crowd the island and have my arms extend over the island counter to get by but I can't do that between table and wall (I'm not sure what that unit is along the upper wall - buffet or floor to ceiling cabinet). It's a visual thing, too. That same amount of space feels much tighter in my DR because of the walls. Also, if those posts between DR and LR cut into the clearance space, as they appear to do based on the drawing, you have even less clearance. Unless you are really desperate for storage, I'd lose the cabinet along the upper DR wall and stick with storage on the left wall, provided you have sufficient length for your table, that is. (I didn't remove it from the above drawing.) How long is your table when fully extended? Make sure you have sufficient clearances then, too - especially for the hallway aisle so that no one feels as though they are sitting in a hallway. Thanks, LL!...See Moremamajean15
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