Thanks for the advice!! I did look at the Fantech as well as the Panasonic WhisperWarm, but in the end, went with the Panasonic. We live in upstate NY and they heat would be great! Since we're not doing the heated tile (boohoo!), I figured this would at least get me a little toastier in the bathroom! So Panasonic WhisperWarm 110cfm with Light/Nightlight for $219 from faucetdepot.com. Hopefully, that was a decent price and it comes relatively quickly ;) (oh, and I read that some weren't thrilled with the light part of the fan, but the only other light we're going to have is above the mirror, so it's fine with me...plus a built in night-light for guests across the hall and the three kids? genius!) Sarah from Albany, NY

So, let me get this straight: you guys seem to be saying that a powered attic vent will: 1) possibly cause a negative pressure in the attic space, also possibly drawing cool air from the living space 2) not decrease the attic temperature significantly I'm thinking you are using some seriously fuzzy logic/math here. As for the "research" posted... the pdf I read was not even worthy of being posted. The other link has expired. Consider these points: 1) According to building codes, an attic space should already have soffit vents and ridge vents at a rate of one pair per 150-300 sq. feet of attic space. So that equals at least 5 square feet of wide open venting, not including a gable vent at the opposite end of the attic. If this is the case, there is NO WAY that a significant negative pressure will occur on the living space unless you have some serious holes in your ceiling. A 1600 cfm powered gable vent is going to pull it's air from these existing vents, or, ideally, from a gable vent at the opposite end of the attic. While ridge vents are indeed designed to exhaust air, they will also allow intake of air. It's just a hole. So this talk of backdrafting in furnace units in the basement (two floors away?) is just silly. Adequate attic venting as required by standard building codes is enough to eliminate this risk. If this venting is not already present, this will of course need to be remedied. But to assume that a negative pressure situation will be typical situation if a power vent is used is erroneous. 2) As for not reducing temperatures significantly, if the fan thermostat is set at 90 degrees, it WILL reduce attic temperatures and keep them lower. Let's say you have about 1500 sq. feet of attic to vent, or roughly about 9000 cubic feet of air volume. A 1600 cfm fan will completely exchange the attic air every 6 minutes or so. If the air enters the attic at 90 degrees from outside, it is NOT going to go up 30 degrees in 6 minutes. That just makes zero sense. The key is to have the vent come on at a lower temperature to ensure that temps don't have a chance to climb to 120 or more. As far as electricity consumption, a powered attic vent pulls considerably less than an a/c unit. I don't have any links for you. Just using common sense.

Highly unlikely with the wiring that's there. Someone would have had to intentionally run extra wiring (ie: 3-wire) to the fan. You will most likely be stuck with the fan and light coming on at the same time unless you can run another wire from the switch.

Yes, that’s exactly what color temperature measures - there can be some minor hue variations but nothing jarring. Here’s a photo to illustrate. If he were to install 5000K daylight recessed lights you would definitely see the difference, but if everything is 3000K you’ll be good.