Something like you would use for an epiphytic orchid would be good. The main thing is to have a 'generous' amount of breathing holes around the roots. That's something that ordinary potting mix wouldn't give you.Just remember that in time the organic component of the mix will break down and the remaining soil will become compacted. That would be a good time for repotting again.

Hi, Trista. It's common among hobby growers to believe that because this plant is a denizen of the rain forest, it must follow that it likes or prefers a wet medium. It does not. Most plants of the rain forest grow in a thin layer of soil and duff that rests atop solid rock and drains quickly and thoroughly. Your images show classic symptoms of over-watering, or put another way, they show a large fraction of the grow medium it's currently in is chronically remaining saturated for extended periods. This robs the roots of their ability to function efficiently and prevents the plant from moving water to its most distal parts, leaf tips and margins. I can't tell how deep your pots are; but, if they're deeper than 5", it would be a good idea to abandon the second knuckle manner of testing for moisture in favor of using a wooden tell, stuck all the way to the bottom of the pot. See below for more info. Balanced fertilizers like 20-20-20 do not provide nutrients in the ratio that plants use them, so in order to provide enough N, you have no choice other than to provide more phosphorous and potassium than the plant needs or uses. This excess has only the potential to be LIMITING. The average plant uses 6X more N than P, and about 3/5 as much K as N. Fertilizers with a 3:1:2 RATIO (ratio is not the same as NPK %s) comes extremely close to providing nutrients at a much more favorable ratio. Examples of 3:1:2 ratio fertilizers are Miracle-Gro 24-8-16 and 12-4-8, as well as Dyna-Gro's Foliage-Pro 9-3-6 which I and many here on the forums favor highly. It has many other advantages as well - if you have interest, just ask. It's the only supplemental nutrition you'll need. The larger leaves nearest the window are deep green large and beautiful, but the leaves on the bottom and in the back are the parts I am having the issue with. It started with just the small leaves that have no splits, but now some of the larger leaves are beginning to yellow or brown or both. It sounds like the new growth is shading out the younger leaves, which are in the process of being shed. The first stage of this process is called 'resorption', during which the plant reclaims valuable nutrients and biocompounds and puts what is reclaimed to use in the rest of the plant, usually to help fuel new growth. Large leaves turning yellow might be caused by a wide array of cultural influences. Over-watering, compacted soil, poor nutrition (if you look at the NPK % of fish emulsion, and they differ, you'll see it lacks several essential nutrients and the ratio of nutrients is not in sync with the ratio at which the plant actually uses the nutrients. I don't know if you have gnats, but they do love fish emulsion ..... a couple of additional gold stars for the FP 9-3-6 fertilizer. I’ve been wondering if changing the potting soil would be the fix. I have organic cactus soil and organic standard potting soil. I was thinking of making it equal parts cactus soil, perlite, and for bark. I also have Pete Moss, but the Pete Moss seems to hold water in my other plants. If by using the tell (see below) you determine the medium is indeed holding excessive amounts of water, a change of soil to something more appropriate could represent the transition from a soil that fights you tooth and nail, working against you and at cross-purposes to your efforts, to a soil that works for you. "The right soil" also makes watering and fertilizing monkey easy. If you're serious about putting more tools in your bag, This Concept will help you understand how/why water behaves as it does in soils. It's probably the largest single step forward a container gardener can make. You'll learn why the size of the particles that make up the medium you use determines how much water it will/can hold. If I was to grow another monstera, this would be what I would use, made from 5 parts bark and one each of peat & perlite. Using a 'tell' Over-watering saps vitality and is one of the most common plant assassins, so learning to avoid it is worth the small effort. Plants make and store their own energy source – photosynthate - (sugar/glucose). Functioning roots need energy to drive their metabolic processes, and in order to get it, they use oxygen to burn (oxidize) their food. From this, we can see that terrestrial plants need plenty of air (oxygen) in the soil to drive root function. Many off-the-shelf soils hold too much water and not enough air to support the kind of root health most growers would like to see; and, a healthy root system is a prerequisite to a healthy plant. Watering in small sips leads to avoid over-watering leads to a residual build-up of dissolved solids (salts) in the soil from tapwater and fertilizer solutions, which limits a plant's ability to absorb water – so watering in sips simply moves us to the other horn of a dilemma. It creates another problem that requires resolution. Better, would be to simply adopt a soil that drains well enough to allow watering to beyond the saturation point, so we're flushing the soil of accumulating dissolved solids whenever we water; this, w/o the plant being forced to pay a tax in the form of reduced vitality, due to prolong periods of soil saturation. Sometimes, though, that's not a course we can immediately steer, which makes controlling how often we water a very important factor. In many cases, we can judge whether or not a planting needs watering by hefting the pot. This is especially true if the pot is made from light material, like plastic, but doesn't work (as) well when the pot is made from heavier material, like clay, or when the size/weight of the pot precludes grabbing it with one hand to judge its weight and gauge the need for water. Fingers stuck an inch or two into the soil work ok for shallow pots, but not for deep pots. Deep pots might have 3 or more inches of soil that feels totally dry, while the lower several inches of the soil is 100% saturated. Obviously, the lack of oxygen in the root zone situation can wreak havoc with root health and cause the loss of a very notable measure of your plant's potential. Inexpensive watering meters don't even measure moisture levels, they measure electrical conductivity. Clean the tip and insert it into a cup of distilled water and witness the fact it reads 'DRY'. One of the most reliable methods of checking a planting's need for water is using a 'tell'. You can use a bamboo skewer in a pinch, but a wooden dowel rod of about 5/16” (75-85mm) would work better. They usually come 48” (120cm) long and can usually be cut in half and serve as a pair. Sharpen all 4 ends in a pencil sharpener and slightly blunt the tip so it's about the diameter of the head on a straight pin. Push the wooden tell deep into the soil. Don't worry, it won't harm the root system. If the plant is quite root-bound, you might need to try several places until you find one where you can push it all the way to the pot's bottom. Leave it a few seconds, then withdraw it and inspect the tip for moisture. For most plantings, withhold water until the tell comes out dry or nearly so. If you see signs of wilting, adjust the interval between waterings so drought stress isn't a recurring issue. Al

When leaf margins curl downward, especially if leaves droop abnormally from the base of the leaf to the leaf tip, there is probably an issue affecting root function or root health. The main causal suspects would be over-watering or soil compaction causing an inadequate supply of oxygen to roots, a root infection, or a TDS (fertility) level too high, which can limit water uptake. After 6 months, the plant should be stable in the pot. I would remove the rocks as they reduce the exposed soil surface which reduces evaporative water loss - your friend when you're over-watering. If you're over-watering, there are 2 potential fixes. 1) Start checking the moisture level of the medium deep in the pot, at the bottom, with a wooden tell. More on that below. 2) If the plant is of manageable size, water over the sink, allow it to drain, then put Newton's First Law of Motion to work, draining excess water from the pot. See below. Do check for mites, as the plant looks mighty mitey. You might need a jeweler's loupe or a magnifying glass to see them. Using a 'tell' Over-watering saps vitality and is one of the most common plant assassins, so learning to avoid it is worth the small effort. Plants make and store their own energy source – photosynthate - (sugar/glucose). Functioning roots need energy to drive their metabolic processes, and in order to get it, they use oxygen to burn (oxidize) their food. From this, we can see that terrestrial plants need plenty of air (oxygen) in the soil to drive root function. Many off-the-shelf soils hold too much water and not enough air to support the kind of root health most growers would like to see; and, a healthy root system is a prerequisite to a healthy plant. Watering in small sips leads to avoid over-watering leads to a residual build-up of dissolved solids (salts) in the soil from tapwater and fertilizer solutions, which limits a plant's ability to absorb water – so watering in sips simply moves us to the other horn of a dilemma. It creates another problem that requires resolution. Better, would be to simply adopt a soil that drains well enough to allow watering to beyond the saturation point, so we're flushing the soil of accumulating dissolved solids whenever we water; this, w/o the plant being forced to pay a tax in the form of reduced vitality, due to prolong periods of soil saturation. Sometimes, though, that's not a course we can immediately steer, which makes controlling how often we water a very important factor. In many cases, we can judge whether or not a planting needs watering by hefting the pot. This is especially true if the pot is made from light material, like plastic, but doesn't work (as) well when the pot is made from heavier material, like clay, or when the size/weight of the pot precludes grabbing it with one hand to judge its weight and gauge the need for water. Fingers stuck an inch or two into the soil work ok for shallow pots, but not for deep pots. Deep pots might have 3 or more inches of soil that feels totally dry, while the lower several inches of the soil is 100% saturated. Obviously, the lack of oxygen in the root zone situation can wreak havoc with root health and cause the loss of a very notable measure of your plant's potential. Inexpensive watering meters don't even measure moisture levels, they measure electrical conductivity. Clean the tip and insert it into a cup of distilled water and witness the fact it reads 'DRY'. One of the most reliable methods of checking a planting's need for water is using a 'tell'. You can use a bamboo skewer in a pinch, but a wooden dowel rod of about 5/16” (75-85mm) would work better. They usually come 48” (120cm) long and can usually be cut in half and serve as a pair. Sharpen all 4 ends in a pencil sharpener and slightly blunt the tip so it's about the diameter of the head on a straight pin. Push the wooden tell deep into the soil. Don't worry, it won't harm the root system. If the plant is quite root-bound, you might need to try several places until you find one where you can push it all the way to the pot's bottom. Leave it a few seconds, then withdraw it and inspect the tip for moisture. For most plantings, withhold water until the tell comes out dry or nearly so. If you see signs of wilting, adjust the interval between waterings so drought stress isn't a recurring issue. Newton's First Law For conventional container culture, it's a given that saturated/partially saturated media rob roots of the oxygen they need to function normally and efficiently. At best, soil saturation robs your plants of immense measure of potential in areas like growth, appearance, yields, ….. At worst, plants unable to cope with the strain of drought stress caused by saturated media will succumb to it. This isn't a 'scare tactic, it's a very simple and straightforward observation that will be difficult to disagree with a straight face. Newton's First Law of Motion states that an object will remain either at rest, or in motion at a uniform rate and in a straight line unless acted upon by an external offsetting force. In this case, we will designate the 'object' as excess water in your potting medium. At risk of my being redundant, the 'law' can be seen as a simple statement about inertia, that objects will remain in motion and in a straight line unless a force acts to change the motion. To put the law to work for you/your plantings, you should water to beyond the point of total soil saturation - so the medium has been completely saturated and at least 15-20% of the water you have applied has exited the pot. Unless your soil is purposefully constructed to eliminate all/nearly all excess water, it's extremely probable, when the pot has stopped draining, there will be too much water in the potting medium for the plants' liking. To eliminate this excess water: immediately after a thorough watering, hold the pot in one hand over the sink, lawn, or over-sleeping significant other and move it downward, then sharply reverse the direction to upward. You'll immediately note that a good measure of 'excess' water will “continue downward in a straight line” and exit the drain hole. The sharper the reversal of direction, the more water exits the drain hole. When you have repeated the exercise until water no longer exits the drain hole on the reversal of direction, you will have eliminated all excess water and your plants will regard you with a newfound sense of awe. Al

When I behead plants & pot up cutting, I start watering when roots start groowing. That is most often when new growth start appearing. So good you are not watering rootless cutting. Black scarrings coul be from the damage very young leaves had on them, often barely visible. If it is on brand new leaves that grew since, I would suspect a pest. Many are tiny & hard to see. Also when spraying with anything, plant should be kept out of direct sunlight. RA dries up fast, but I would keep plant out of direct sun for at least 5-8hrs. Some plants react to it very fast, here is one I damaged by spraying with RA...it has thin leaves: Damage like that doesn't get repaired, but new leaves will grow... Finally, could be a damage from too much light; all plants should be acclimated.