Using epsom salt will encourage new basals only if her potting soil is deficient in magnesium. Which it may or may not be. If it were in the ground I would not recommend epsom salt as NorCal soils are generally not deficient in magnesium. I must say having gardened all around the SF Bay and now in Puget Sound area, Santa Clara is paradise for growing roses. The soil and the climate are perfect. The price of real estate and the resulting size of gardens are a different matter ... I get way more space up here than I ever had down there, and a shorter irrigation season. No, the best thing to encourage basal breaks, is to encourage good healthy growth, and give the rose enough time. Minimum three years from planting. Up here I wouldn't bother with a two cane wonder, our growing season is too cool and too short for a rose to recover from that. Hybrid teas are only just now leafing out from spring pruning up here, after all freezing down to the ground last winter, and you only get two, maybe three, bloom flushes, so a one or two cane bush just isn't going to grow very much. In Santa Clara, two canes is fine! it'll have plenty of time to grow, and no Old Man Winter to kill off what grew over the summer. How long has Bolero been in the pot? potting soil breaks down over a couple years and has to be replaced.

I think the height of the red shade is better, but still doesn't have the angle. In the sketch, the shade is 1/3 the height of the visible lamp base, up to the bottom of the shade - and 1/4 of the total height of the lamp, not counting the finial. I find that to be a very good proportion for a tall, skinny buffet lamp. Likewise, the diameter of the top of the shade is just about 1/4 the diameter of the bottom, and the shade is 2/3 as high as it is wide, which I think is a very pleasing proportion for the coolie style. You get a lot of angle and spread, but it's not too extreme for a more traditional style. Perhaps that will help you work out your dimensions. I'm sorry if I'm driving you to distraction! Once you find something that looks right to you, I think you should choose that.

Thx yes was going look around the control valve next. Looks to me that the tile has not been routinely maintained (sealed). So some aging and cracking in grout may have added to the problem. Been in the house two years with no visible issues with daily use, it looked perfect (e.g. no staining in bottom grout until suddenly now). This disscussion really makes me wonder about the way tubs are sealed to walls. A Silicon seal acting like a ~1/4" water dike trapping and holding water makes no sense. Seems to me that there should be a 1/2" gap under the wall backboard with current recommended water barrier behind extended 1/4" further overlapping the tub flange. And their should be engineered a flexible polymer strip to be inserted in the gap to seal between the tub ledge and the tile. It should have antimicrobials in it and be treated annually with an application of antimicrobial treatment. The invention could be a firm microbubble nondegradable polymer. And it should have a GoreTex film like property, where free water can't get across it, very little moisture is held so it dries quickly, and moisture settling behind the bottom tile can excape as water vapor. Slight permeability to the flexible material and a fused backing of the Goretex oriented towards the flange wall could accomplish this. It could have a thin flap on the back topside so it is installed along with the bottom tile and act as the standard 1/8" spacer below the bottom tile. Being flexible and supported from the back edge it could flex downward if the tub ledge moves downward when weight loaded, still helping block water entry. If the tub settles a little permanently, the permeable membrane would still help block transport water out of the gap. A spongy expandable sealed bubble like strip material would allow the most water blockage with flexing and also be best at preventing any air gap developing. Just an idea ... on my wish list.

Mark, unless your dog is trained in Personal Protection, most snarling barking dogs, even Belgian Shepherds, will back down very quickly once a stranger enters the house when the dog(s) are home alone. There is a trainer in Florida that has several youtube videos that do a good job of showing this. He puts on a padded bite suit and "breaks" into customers homes. Customers who have told him their dogs would rip him apart! 99% of the dogs were quick to back down and want nothing to do with the intruder. My big and vicious sounding/looking dog stays in a crate when we are gone. I rely on my security system with sensors and motion detectors. The last thing I want is someone to hurt or kill my dog ... I would rather they just steal "stuff". Now, if you are home and someone breaks in, there might be a chance that your dog might try to help you out, but I wouldn't rely on that as my only home defense plan.