Manhattan42 - sometimes you say the craziest things. In my neck of the woods, every crawlspace is vented and unconditioned. Sealing crawlspace is a new thing but even then you don't purposely heat the space. There is R-19 under the floor - that does a pretty good job at keeping the heat in the house. Are you in NY? - if so it is possible that your codes are more like the OPs. But around here in crawlspace land - we vent and don't condition. Sealing costs some $ but does help some wuth heating costs. To the OP - you probably have a basement - so all this doesn't apply. Yes - you could heat the basement. This helps but tile is still cold and it is nice for the bathroom to be the warmest room in the house when you shower. We use supplemental heat on our 2nd floor bathroom. It really sounds like heat lamps or fan heaters are what you want. They both cost the same to put out the same heat. You can only beat that if you have a hot water heating system and can tap into that. Having had both - I prefer the fan because of the "baked" feeling of heat lamps. The lamps can be directed better for heat in one particular spot but the fan heats the room better. My father is a PhD engineer who wrote some pretty landmark papers on energy efficiency in the 70s - he agrees that using electric resistance heating in a bathroom for occassional heat is the way to go. If you use it for 5% of the time, it doesn't really matter that it isn't the cheapest way to make heat.

I think weâÂÂre in the wrong forum here, however⦠The dimensions for this bathroom are a mere 36in wide by 9ft long - thatâÂÂs it! The shower area does not feel cramped due to there being no constraints of either a door or threshold to step over. There is no âÂÂstep-up' into the bathroom as it was planned as a European shower which by definition means no step up no threshold no nothing beyond what there was to enter the old bathroom. Cost for the Schluter water proofing materials, and labor to install Schluter & tiles was $10k not including tiles, Schluter linear drain or any preparation to have everything ready for the tile installer, Hugo Sanchez. All dimensions had to be prepared to within a 1/32in for the linear drain to fit perfectly between the finished walls. Electric in-floor is not a problem, nothing should go wrong, however, it would be very difficult to repair if there were a problem within the electric floor mat itself. It must be connected by a licensed electrician to a ground fault interrupter circuit breaker for your safety. We also chose a thermostatically controlled exposed shower faucet (Grohe Grotherm 3000) not only for its aesthetic appeal but also for servicing, as the tiles will never have to be removed for any kind of servicing. Regarding Schluter, which is the âÂÂgold standardâ for wet room waterproofing, you can contact them for a recommendation to a certified installer. Even better might be to ask for a recommendation from a high-end ceramic tile dealer in your area. Even so, ASK about the level of competence and quality of the installerâÂÂs work. Also ask for references. Regarding your bathroom window location, I think this will always be a problem left as a conventional window as indicated in your drawing. What I would suggest as a permanent fix would be to replace the entire window with square glass blocks either set in place with an epoxy grout or silicone. This would satisfy the need for privacy and make the window area virtually trouble and maintenance free. Regarding storage space Robern is THE choice, fully manufactured in the USA, high-end and drop dead gorgeous throughout! Ours is wired with 6-electrical outlets within the cabinet (standard) and is internally wired for cable TV & Internet. SR Here is a link that might be useful: Robern

Lovely! I like the classic white tile and porcelain and how you used furniture pieces in the bathroom. I love that the storage at the end of the tub has pull-outs that can be reached from the toilet. Your custom sink and backsplash and counter are unique and beautiful. Yours may be the first bathroom sink I have seen in which a small or medium dog could be washed! That is a good thing! I showed your pictures to my DH because I am thinking of classic tiled walls with a chair rail for when we redo our bath in a couple of years. He liked it! I was expecting him to say, "too old fashioned." He did not, he said it looked nice. From him, nice is a compliment. He even liked your rows of listello. I was just at the Tile Shop's site the other day looking at the Hampton tiles because someone was selling some on Craigslist. I am hoping to do as you did and get what I can cheaper there, and fill in the rest from the store. I can see that you worked very hard to secure all of your materials - and then cut the floor tiles to size and culled the Hampton tiles, too! You succeeded very well in getting the look you wanted while saving money along the way. Congratulations, and thank you for the pictures and great detail and supply list.

"Would you do electric or hydronic? " As a guess, your baseboards are probably being sent water from the boiler that's in the vicinity of 160-180 degrees. That's too warm to circulate in a floor. It would make sense to put the RFH loop on it's own isolated system. You'd probably want a mixing valve to drop the temp from the 170-ish boiler temp to 120 degree water which is more suitable for a RFH loop. You'd probably want a circulating pump to move the water through the loop. To make it all happen you'd need a few valves, t-stat, relays, etc, etc. Or you could buy a small water heater, set it at 120 degrees, and use that to heat the loop with a t-stat to kick it off and a circulating pump to move the water. As well as a few more obligatory bits and pieces. That secondary system would be completely independent of your boiler and whole-house baseboard system. To warm the tile floor, you need a RFH mat wired on its own circuit. A t-stat. Which is easier? Which is less expensive? When you wrote this: "We are still keeping a heating element in the room so we aren't looking for it to warm the room." I'd recommend electric radiant; mat or cable style. It's easier to type and easier to install.