Hi, I didn't read all the above comments, so I may be repeating. we refinished all our floors with the Bona hi traffic extra matte. Bona traffic is only available in matte, but the high traffic is available in extra matte. it is water based so it will not yellow. it is very easy to put down, dries incredibly fast with almost no odor. only downside is that I think it was 3 times the cost of an oil based poly. we have had it for almost two years now and are very happy with it. Here is a link that might be useful: Bona Hi traffic

Yes, that's wise advice. The reason I haven't been wanting to wait is mainly the furniture issue. Moving all the furniture in and out is a MAJOR pain in the tuches. So the mere thought of moving all of our stuff in there and then back out in a month is very daunting. On the other hand, living with all of our stuff crammed into the kitchen and bedroom for a month isn't sustainable either. I can't even get in and out of bed on my side, nor can I use the stove. Anyway, I've decided to just pretend it's not there. Maybe I'll come to like it. I don't think I will, because I like it less every time I look at it, but it's the best option I can come up with right now. Maybe it'll accelerate selling the house... FWIW, it *is* 3/4" solid wood, not engineered. So it's good to know we could take the drastic route if necessary.

So your floors are ALREADY FINISHED in a HARDWAX OIL finish?????? And you now want to add POLYURETHANE? Oh dear. Let's pull that bus over for a minute. OK. Here we are. You have an oil finished floor that is looking dusty. It looks "dusty" because it is THIRSTY. It needs more oil. The maintenance oil that you purchased for the floor at the time it was finished (ahem....I'm making an assumption here) is what it needs. Oiled hardwoods can require multiple oilings a year (1-2 every year) until they take on a lovely patina that says "I'm happy and glowing with love,". If they look DUSTY it is because they haven't had their doses of oil. Their required oil maintenance is probably missing. If you wish to get away from the hardwax oil, this is going to take more than "a light sand". You are going to have to remove ALL THE WOOD that has soaked up the oil. This isn't a quick 'pass' with the sander and redo. Nope. This is taking this down by 4+ passes or more. It takes a LOT of effort to change an oiled floor to a polyurethane floor. Why? Because oil PREVENTS the poly from grabbing. All it takes is a SPECK of oil on a plank to cause adhesion failure. And if you see ONE SPOT with adhesion failure you MUST ASSUME you have other spots that will eventually let go. Please bring in a seasoned professional who works with BOTH oil finishes AND polyurethane finishes. They will know how much wood to take off (that includes all that lovely colour) and how to "eye ball" whether or not they will be able to successfully apply the poly - or if they need to shave off more wood. Please do not think this is easy. Converting these oiled floors can be done. But it is not a quick switch. This is a FULL SAND AND REFINISH. All the colour = gone. All the extra effort to sand WELL PAST the oil contamination = MORE MONEY to do this. An NWFA Certified Sand/Refinisher charges $4-$5/sf for a regular sand/refinish. This could come in at $6-$7/sf. And you only have a 3 year old floor. A full sand and refinish will remove 20 years from your floor's life. You 3 years with this finish is supposed to "last" 20 - 25 years before a full sand and refinish is 'needed'. Please look HARD at the options. Take the time to add the oil...and then keep adding until you feel the wood looks healthy and well oiled. That's how they are supposed to look. What is your oiling routine right now? How about your cleaning/repairing routine? What cleaners are you using? Touch-up colour/oil? When was the last time you did a full oil application (one room at a time is FINE...that's what these floors are known for)?

We have Armstrong Empower in Scandia Oak, rigid core. It's a light flooring with a matte finish and textured. We are two adults and two dachshunds. I have no problems keeping it clean, no streaks, footprints, or residue. This product is so much better than the dark engineered hardwood floors we've had before that showed every dust particle. I dry mop 1-2x a week, and wet mop once a week with vinegar and water. I have never used Armstrong cleaner or anything else but vinegar. I used to use an O-Cedar mop but have moved to a Bissell spin wave. Same thing really. When we rented before this house it had engineered hardwood floors and the landlord required us to use Bruce's cleaner, which was the floor brand. It was terrible and we had lots of residue, footprints and dust. I think whatever the brands they're telling people to use is harming to floors. There's a whole thread about footprints and streaks on lvp. https://www.houzz.com/discussions/5838482/smudges-footprints-paw-prints-all-over-luxury-vinyl-plank-flooring#28787373