Matte or Satin Finish on White Oak Floors

7 years ago

last modified: 7 years ago

We are refinishing our quarter-sawn white oak floors. When they were installed 3 years ago, we wanted a natural, european oil finish with no poly on top. They are now in need of some touch ups so we are going to do a light sand and add a poly finish. Can't decide between SATIN or MATTE finish. We find the floors look dusty and bland now, and like the look of them when they are fresh washed the best. We have two boys who aren't extremely gentle on them and also prefer low maintenance.

Here is a picture of how they currently look:

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Comments (3)

annied75
7 years ago
Do you have any leftover boards that you can use as samples? That would allow you to view them throughout the day to see how you like each finish. The matte finish may give you the "too bland" look that you indicated that you don't like.
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SJ McCarthy
7 years ago
So your floors are ALREADY FINISHED in a HARDWAX OIL finish?????? And you now want to add POLYURETHANE?

Oh dear. Let's pull that bus over for a minute. OK. Here we are. You have an oil finished floor that is looking dusty. It looks "dusty" because it is THIRSTY. It needs more oil. The maintenance oil that you purchased for the floor at the time it was finished (ahem....I'm making an assumption here) is what it needs.

Oiled hardwoods can require multiple oilings a year (1-2 every year) until they take on a lovely patina that says "I'm happy and glowing with love,". If they look DUSTY it is because they haven't had their doses of oil. Their required oil maintenance is probably missing.

If you wish to get away from the hardwax oil, this is going to take more than "a light sand". You are going to have to remove ALL THE WOOD that has soaked up the oil. This isn't a quick 'pass' with the sander and redo. Nope. This is taking this down by 4+ passes or more.

It takes a LOT of effort to change an oiled floor to a polyurethane floor. Why? Because oil PREVENTS the poly from grabbing. All it takes is a SPECK of oil on a plank to cause adhesion failure. And if you see ONE SPOT with adhesion failure you MUST ASSUME you have other spots that will eventually let go.

Please bring in a seasoned professional who works with BOTH oil finishes AND polyurethane finishes. They will know how much wood to take off (that includes all that lovely colour) and how to "eye ball" whether or not they will be able to successfully apply the poly - or if they need to shave off more wood.

Please do not think this is easy. Converting these oiled floors can be done. But it is not a quick switch. This is a FULL SAND AND REFINISH. All the colour = gone. All the extra effort to sand WELL PAST the oil contamination = MORE MONEY to do this. An NWFA Certified Sand/Refinisher charges $4-$5/sf for a regular sand/refinish. This could come in at $6-$7/sf.

And you only have a 3 year old floor. A full sand and refinish will remove 20 years from your floor's life. You 3 years with this finish is supposed to "last" 20 - 25 years before a full sand and refinish is 'needed'.

Please look HARD at the options. Take the time to add the oil...and then keep adding until you feel the wood looks healthy and well oiled. That's how they are supposed to look.

What is your oiling routine right now? How about your cleaning/repairing routine? What cleaners are you using? Touch-up colour/oil? When was the last time you did a full oil application (one room at a time is FINE...that's what these floors are known for)?
Erin D thanked SJ McCarthy
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katinparadise
7 years ago
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