Would it be possible to put in a bow window? That would make the middle of the window where the faucet is a few inches deeper - enough to protect the window from splashes and the sill from crumbs, etc. But, I doubt you'll be able to open it...but I'm not sure as I don't know much about bow windows. The other possibility is to have the window just an inch or so off the counter and trim it w/corner round or other small trim. It would keep the "window to the counter" effect while still raising it a tad off the counter and perhaps be less prone to collecting "gunk". It probably won't help with the splashing though. Is it possible to add a 6" bump-out? Something like MamaDadaPaige's or ErikaNH's windows in the threads linked below. They also offer some architectural interest to the outside of the house...assuming it fits the house (or see what you can do to make it "fit".) We have a bay window behind our sink & faucet that's down to the counter and we love it! It gives you such a great expanse of view and you don't feel like you're being cut off from the outside like a raised window does. counter height window pictures please Counter window h[e]ight -- please help! Counter height window owners--Help! Counter Height Window Installation This kitchen has a bow window... Another Finished White Kitchen...But I have morgue drawers

Ok, I'm back, and refocused. Thanks so much for all the advice (and the football tangent. I'm married to a Steelers fan, so Sunday wasn't a happy day -- record-setting blizzard AND Brady getting another ring). Anyway, I did the rough math and decided that by the time I pay my GC to install and painter to paint my doors, they won't be much cheaper than going with a much better product. Plus, my GC doesn't do exterior doors everyday and I know there's a real benefit to having the experts handle install. I've talked to a few local folks and been advised that HomeGuard is a bit of a better value than Provia -- less expensive and still quite good. I've been quoted $4400 to install factory-painted HomeGuard doors - two 36"x80" flush steel doors plus two 16'x80" sidelites with low E and argon glass. Is this a decent price? And a good way to go? Thanks again.

I tried a light, medium and dark roof for your house. I think the light color draws to much attention to the roof. I also darkened the garage door and beam above it. The white was drawing too much attention. I would raise the canopy of the tree to the left of house. You want to draw attention to the entrance first and the living part of the house in general.

Michigan occupies building climate zones 5 - 7. Zone 5 is the warmest zone that can still comply with the R20 cavity-only requirement. It looks like Ontario has adopted similar IRC mandatory exterior insulative sheathing. We use the performance compliance path on every home, one of the many advantages to including a third party energy rater. Most raters are not keen on getting too far away from code prescriptions. For some of the prescriptions, like blower door minimums, it's cost-effective to exceed code. Most high performance builders are exceeding code with exterior insulation as code encourages risky wall strategies, hence the recommended minimum table I first posted about. Even leaky, all natural homes can have poor indoor air quality. Outdoor air ventilation is now required by current IRC codes and a smart idea for any inhabited enclosed space. It's a life-safety requirement and long overdue measure for modern homes.