Clover is relatively hard to kill, I have read that this is because of its substantial root system. If you plan to overseed in the fall, I would start with the WBG now, assuming temperatures are not around 90 as already mentioned. I suggest this because it likely will take two or three applications to get it under control, and this takes time, so if you start late it will interfere with your overseeding. In my case, the clover was so thick in spots that the grass has suffered. I don't think it is dead, but will take a few weeks of sunlight and moisture to come back, now that it is no longer competing with the Clover for those things. Ortho has a Clover-specific product that I assume works well, but a few applications of the regular WBG Max has wiped out most of mine. Good luck!

You are going to be hard pressed pulling clover by hand as it has roots the same as turf grass. If you don't pull roots and all it will simply come back. There are products on the market that will kill clover but they are not organic. One thing about clover, it "fixes" nitrogen in the soil. As a result, many farmers and organic gardeners use clover as a green manure plowing it under in the spring.

Hi bpgreen! I mixed the two varieties loosely by hand in a bucket, then used a seed spreader to broadcast the mix out over the lawn. The strawberry clover is in a few patches where I have water seeps that show up in the summer, so it would be more alkaline than the rest of the place. They sort of co-exist with some really tough, light green colored grass that seems to like the same micro environment - lots of sun exposure, shallow leached soil, in a late dry fall or early spring when the soil is dried out, these areas turn white with the accumulated salts. And there's the strawberry clover. I fairly often see the Dutch White turn brown from lack of water, but it comes right back. Another comment on the sod web worms, I still got quite the herd out there, judging by the little moths that I kick up. I just recently read that the damage is worse in areas of full sun, and a lot less with shade - which I'm seeing as well. The clover masks that very well, but the areas in full sun that don't yet have established clover are getting hammered. Steve, its sort of interesting where it decides it likes to grow - some of my best patches are along the edge of the gravel driveway. It might be because they can get their roots down deep enough for the moisture, with no competition. My brother planted it in his worst lawn spots, and is pretty happy with the result. He also has the daffodils.

I have used Roundup around the base of many trees and it has never harmed the trees. I would never (again) use a weed barrier like plastic. I believe the rule-of-thumb for mulching around trees is no more than 6" deep around the tree.