Janieful: "The advanced toilet makes sense to me - at least much more than a separate bidet would. I have never used either, but bidets take up so much space. The one in all model is much more practical." The advanced toilet seats are not, strictly speaking, direct replacements for bidets, though one generic term for advanced toilet seats is "bidet seat." The first and foremost function of an advanced toilet seat is water washing a bit further to the rear than a bidet cleanses. Cleansing the anus with water is far superior to wiping (and spreading) with dry paper. Most current models of advanced toilet seat have a second washing function called "feminine cleaning," or a variant thereof, which has many similarities to the function of a bidet. As you may guess, that function directs the water somewhat further forward than the primary function does. However, in "real" bidets, the water comes from the front, whereas in advanced toilet seats, the water approaches from the rear, so there is a difference. The various brands of advanced toilet seats approach these functions in different manners. Inax, which invented the advanced toilet seat category, determined that the optimal angle of incidence of the spray on the anus should be 70 degrees from horizontal or, in other words, just 20 degrees from vertical. The Inax advanced toilet seats therefore have spray wands for posterior cleansing that extend out fairly far, so that the spray can be more nearly vertical. Toto, the biggest player in the market, was obsessed by the spectre of "backwash," the (small proportion of the) water that rebounds off the user's posterior, and accordingly Toto Washlets are designed to spray water at the anus at 43 degrees from horizontal, which reduces (but does not not eliminate) the amount of backwash that hits the spray wand. But spray directed at Toto's 43 degree angle does not wash as effectively as the 70 degree spray of the Inax models does. Inax addresses the backwash matter with an aggressive self-cleaning cycle for the spray wands, executed both before and after each use. As to the feminine function, Toto can get by with a single wand for both posterior and feminine cleansing, with two spray nozzles in the single wand, because the 43 degree spray angle for the posterior wash already is so shallow. Inax has to use a separate dedicated spray wand for feminine cleansing, because the wand that Inax uses for posterior cleansing would not be positioned well for the feminine cleansing function. But, whether or not you use the toilet seat for bidet-like functions, water-assisted posterior cleansing is a huge step up from dry wiping after a bowel movement. There probably is no way to upgrade your bathroom more effectively than to replace a passive toilet seat with an advanced toilet seat.

When you say it didn't survive the first winter inside, but revived in the spring, what do you mean? Did it drop leaves and die back to the stem? That very pale orange foliage looks like variegation to me, not stress coloration as I think the other posters are thinking. Variegation refers to areas of little or no chlorophyll, whereas stress coloration is a reaction to intense sun (and often cold) in which the plant produced other colors in addition to the green chlorophyll - kind of like sunscreen. I don't believe the pale areas of your plant could photosynthesize at all. The only parts of the plant able to photosynthesiize were the green parts, and they had to feed the whole plant. I can only guess what caused it (it can sometimes be a virus), but IMO, that appearance wasn't sustainable. The plant HAD to produce more green leaves or die. I had an Aeonium kiwi that did something similar. It started out green with white, pink, and orange variegation, but then it grew like gangbusters and all the new growth came in white and a little pink at the edges- no green. It was absolutely stunning to look at, but with only a few older green leaves to feed the whole plant, it weakened and succumbed to a mite infection. It didn't have enough resources (stored energy) to come back. I think you're lucky yours is alive at all. If I'm correct about what was going on, I don't think it'll ever be orange like that again, and that's good. Maybe it'll get some orange variegation, but not so much that all the new growth is pale and without chlorophyll. here is a photo of mine as it was turning completely white.

Your house is not dated. It looks fresh, and there are only a few tweaks I see, as others have noted. Something more colorful for rugs. The overhead lights could be switched out for more flair. I'd find a single art piece for behind the sofa, something with a bit more drama - I was going to say color, but if you'd prefer, a black and white piece would go there well, if it stood out more. I am NOT one for low artwork behind furniture - but in this case with that window above, I think the art does call for being lower. (Why I am not, generally-speaking, a fan? 1) Navel-height art fails to appeal to me, and 2) people leaning back on couches will likely bang or brush their heads on the art.) I'd switch the two chairs in the living room. Stair railing: I am fine with it as is, or stain it a bit darker (do not paint). As for paint color for the walls - nothing ever looks the same on a monitor as in person, but what you already have appears to work (and you'd be doing a LOT of painting if you do decide to change the color. Get samples, paint a board or spare bit of sheet rock. I like the fish tank - painting that might be worthwhile.

Quite the thread. Unfortunately some important basic information seems to have been overlooked. I) Gypsum board has not been allowed in wet areas since 2006. 2) Schluter Kerdi membrane is not recommended over moisture resistant dry wall due to the waxy finish. They are ok with regular drywall. 3) Adhering membrane to taping compound and paint. Big no no. 4) Most Important - Drywall manufacturers do not want their products in a wet area period. USG makes drywall and a waterproof membrane far superior to Schluter Kerdi and they will not allow it installed over drywall in a wet area. Schluter and others say it's Ok. (Actually they are only saying they can adhere to it.) Funny how they think they can over ride what another product manufacturer states their products limitations are and consider it a acceptable substrate. What is getting overlooked here is possible condensation in the wall cavity itself. This can destroy the gypsum board from behind where cement board or a foam panel would not be affected. Perhaps a drip in the control valve, poor seal on the gasket or elsewhere will break that gypsum board down. Now you have no recourse as Schluter and others will say the shower system worked fine it's the wall which it is attached to that failed. mca330 I do hope none of these issues will occur on your project and all goes well. There are some such as myself that would have walked away or insisted all manufacturer instructions and proper methods involved in the shower assembly were followed. Best