wood floor staining problem
K S
9 months ago
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Timothy Winzell
9 months agoK S
9 months agoRelated Discussions
Help! Problem with stained wood
Comments (2)As you mentioned maple is difficult to stain. You really need to use a sealer before staining if you prefer an even look to the finish. For the parts that are already stained it's too late to do anything short of sanding them down and starting over. That would be a tremendous amount of work as the stain in the darker parts has penetrated more deeply and would require a lot of sanding to lighten back to the original color. If it bothers you deeply then it would probably be easier just to remove and toss the pieces you don't like and start fresh. It's hard to tell from your small photos, but the dark areas actually appear to be from figure in the maple rather than blotching. I actually like contrasting figure in maple and think it has a lot of character, but that's just MHO....See MoreCreamy white cabs, stained island, stained wood floors?
Comments (11)Oh, the floor stain. I about had a nervous breakdown last weekend selecting the floor stain. We finally choose Fruitwood (minwax) and I can't say I'm 100% sold yet. Everyone besides me thinks it's perfect. Anyway, my cabinets are white with a glaze that makes them creamy, and the island is maple with a stain and a glaze on it. Here's a pic with several stain samples. The ones shown are (L to R) golden oak, fruitwood, early american and the one across the bottom is provencial. The one I selected definitely looks best with the island - I just love dark wood. Wish I'd have selected Provencial. All are minwax stains. I took some pics since the floors were stained this week, but they aren't in photobucket yet. Will try to post tonight. Also, there was a similar question a couple of days ago. I have pics of my last house with the same setup - white perimeter, stained island and wood floors. The link to that thread is below. Here is a link that might be useful: Other thread...See MoreHardwood flooring stain continuity, swirl, nail hole problems
Comments (8)I just looked up water popping, since I was unfamiliar with it, and apparently its VERY tricky to get it right various causes of blotchiness include uneven application of the water, wood not evenly or completely dry before staining, etc. Im no pro,...just someone who's futzed around with wood for a long time. In some spots it looks like it might have to do with the grain of the wood and how its absorbing the stain. I might be willing to accept the blotchiness as just quirks of the wood.... maybe.... but not the swirl marks - that's just amateur. My sympathies, such beautifully grained wood deserves better!...See MoreHelp! Red Oak Floors & Loba 2k Invisible- stain problems :/
Comments (9)I have to agree that these were preexisting but almost invisible because of the sanding. The top pic looks like "old finish" was left in place. Considering how thin your boards are and how old they are, this is not unexpected. And to be clear, old floors can have 80 years worth of contamination (ie. wax, shoe polish, Pledge, Murphy's Oil soap, soap, hairspray, hair dye, etc) on them. These products can, and will, get past the original finish and contaminate the wood. Just like old urine stains pushing all the way through a board (the dark gray stain is most like an old urine stain...cause that's what they look like after many years), these contaminants can go several millimeters into the wood. Especially things like cooking oil, Murphy's Oil soap (anything oil based really) or even melted wax from a candle. After sanding, you wouldn't have 'seen' these things. But a quick swish of a slightly damp mop (make it wet to give some depth of colour) and all of these things would have been evident within moments of the water touching the wood. And that's why you can see them now. The clear coat is like water hitting the wood. It gives the colours depth...and definition. But unlike water, the finish is permanent. At this point, I would keep going with your plan = 2 more coats of Loba 2K Invisible. And You will want to hurry. To get a good 'stick' the next coat should be put down within 24 hours of the previous...or else the flooring guy has to abrade the floor again to get a mechanical grip rather than a chemical stick. Keep going. Know that you are getting 20 years more out of these floors that probably should have given up the ghost 20 years ago. That means you are extending the life by 40 years. For an old hardwood floor, that's impressive....See MoreHALLETT & Co.
9 months agoTimothy Winzell
9 months agoK S
9 months agoK S
9 months agoTimothy Winzell
9 months agoK S
9 months ago
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