Anthurium has a crown and is usually divided, not propagated. Most cultivated Anthuriums are self-sterile, so although they can also be started from seeds, an individual plant can't produce them. After a little further investigating, I wonder if the Pothos (Epipremnum) leaves I mentioned have thrips? "Feeding takes place with rasping type mouth parts. Infested leaves become curled or distorted, with silver-gray scars or calloused areas where feeding has occurred."

The blockage is in the basement so no tree roots. It's an old house, the main trap is cast iron and 6" not 4 as I mentioned. Thinking about it more I finally realized that heavy materials in water from toilets and sinks must sink in the bottom of the main trap and build up, needing periodic clean out. I looked at what the plumber did and it is a vertical pipe attached to the top of the U on the trap with rubber joints fixed with clamps so easy to get to. They tried a roto rooter thing without success. The clean out is about 12' from the trap with a right angle turn in between. It was only after they did the upright and were able to reach the trap directly did they clear it. I guess I've answered my own question! It was later after posting I got to thinking about the settling thing.

Very hard 'soil' could be very hydrophobic peat. When peat dries up like that, it is very difficult to re-wet & soften up. It literally repels water. I use warm water - warm enough that yo will use it comfortably on your face, it will not burn the plant. Use bowl with warm water to swish the roots in it. It would be best to get all old soil off the roots - it could be difficult if it is hardened peat. Many roots may be totally desiccated if in such dry soil/peat. Plant will re-root if that's the case - just as cuttings would (Kara already described how to take cuttings and how to pot them). I am not sure what you refer to as good soil? Succulents do not need rich soil full of organic matter like a tomato plant that is grown in ground:) They prefer more grainy mix that drains very well and fast, and doesn't contain too much organics. Some ppl use mix of Cactus&Succulent soil with sifted perlite or pumice, in 50/50 or even 40/60 ratio. Gritty mix is very good medium for growing succulents in, using combination of few of the following: pumice, perlite, grit, scoria, turface and similar. Best not to use peat or fine sand. You didn't mention your general location or growing zone - could you update your profile and add to your name?

Succulents need good drainage and good light/sunlight all the times, not only when you want to for them to bloom. I was wondering about the instructions, since I do not do anything different for them. They bloom when they want IMO. There are many instructions about holiday cacti for example - I never did what they say and they bloom regardless. I keep outside all succulents+other plants as long as possible. Some will bloom better if they spend some time there, but I would keep them outdoors regardless if I like them to bloom or not. On some, I sometimes cut the inflorescence off - most often haworthias. They get really long inflos, and blooms are quite insignificant. There are some plants that are monocarpic - blooming plant dies when finished. For example some kalanchoes, sempervivums (hardy succulents) and few more. I read that inflo could be cut off to 'save' the plant - I do not know if that works because I never tried. Those plants grow offsets anyway to replace themselves. I asked what you did with the beheaded plant - and you did great. This particular plant grow really well and easy, as you already found out! Not all of them do so well, and are bit more finicky. Some will not even propagate from leaves but from stem cuttings, and few only from the seeds.