For anyone years later who is looking for the same info: I recently left flooring as a store manager and sales rep. First, understand that NO flooring is scratch-proof. They are scratch-resistant. I know someone else recommended staying away from it in case your basement floods but the truth of the matter is that if it floods and you use your homeowner's insurance (recommended), they will insist on the entire floor being replaced no matter what you have installed. You can choose a commercial grade if you are really worried about the flooring holding up to abuse. They are often glued down. Your installer will probably want to skimcoat the floor or use a leveler. This is good practice. Urethane with ceramic bead and urethane plus with aluminum oxide particles are the strongest choices right now but there are some higher ratings Like AC 5 which is stronger than say a 20 mil wear layer. There are also a few in the 30 mil wear layer range. You will often save money hiring your own installer because stores make money from the cost of installation. Hire your own and have them buy your materials. If they have an established relationship with the store, they will often get a significant discount on your materials. The store I worked for had a 55% profit margin but when they sold to installers/contractors they lowered it to 30-35%. Stores have to make a profit and so do installers. You may save some cash if your installer charges a smaller profit margin. Ask for a Certificate of Insurance on the installer. If their installation is bad or unfinished, their insurance has to cover it. Stores should have a warranty to cover poor workmanship as well. The manufacturer will cover manufacturing defects but not workmanship. Before you hire someone, ask if they do moisture testing and what is their procedure for it. ALWAYS have a moisture test done and documented when they come out to measure. If it is too high they should recommend what to do to get it and keep it at the appropriate level. ALWAYS have it done again before installation. This is the number one thing that causes manufacturers to deny a claim.

Here is the Ravenswood installed. You can see more on our Instagram account. It sometimes pull pink and sometimes gray, but it's a nice saturation. Not too light, not too dark. I don't love the bevel and how wide/long they are, but they are very wonderful overall. We have lots of green trees around the house to counteract the pink in the floors, so they look pretty natural in our house. The one downside of the Ravenswood is that is does seem to change color a lot based on natural and artificial lighting, so I would suggest getting some long planks of it before you buy.

I posted a follow-up on the other thread where I commented and decided to post here for anyone else who does a search for problems from the green reflected light from Low-E glass. This is a long post but it captures the relevant information about what I tried to eliminate the green. PART I: Our great room faces west and has three large patio windows (8' tall and 12' wide) made of Low-E glass which cast a green light inside the house. The ceiling height in the dining nook and by the patio doors is 10', and with the vaulted ceiling is app. 13' at the highest point in the middle of the room. Outside the great room, is a covered patio which is about 10' high. Since I know how hard it may be to track what I described, I included our floorplan showing where the sun is in the afternoon. As the light enters the room the color changes. In the morning, the great room looks grey and dingy so I leave the warm 3000K LED lights on. In the afternoon, on the wall with the door to the laundry/garage (yellow arrow), from floor level to about 8', Creamy is light creamy yellow with a greenish hue. And then, from 8'-13' it looks less green and has more of a sickly grey tinge. On the wall in the kitchen (the other yellow arrow) the color is darker but has the same green look to it. I invited our new painter over so that he could see what I've been talking about since I'm trying to decide which is the best color for this space. I showed him the wall directly across from the patio doors (yellow arrow). He said he could sort of see what I meant about the wall color looking like it has a hint of green Then I opened the patio door, all the natural light flooded in and the color was much brighter - the way that I expected Creamy to be. He was shocked, saying he'd never before seen the color of walls change as much. So, it's not just the paint color. It is the color, the light(s), the direction of the sun and, in our case, the Low-E glass. PART II: So now that I know that the Low-E glass we chose is definitely casting a green on our rug, furniture and walls. I've been trying other colors that are still light and bright without picking up the green. I tried SW Panda White, but it still had the dingy green/grey. Then I tried SW Downy and it is nearly identical to SW Panda White but has a bit more pink or peach. But it doesn't look pink/peach. It is also not nearly as muddy, dingy or green as Panda White. And it actually looks Creamy!

Thanks for the input so far. eld6161 - yes, SW Florida, about 10 minutes from the beach :). The bedrooms are even more beachy than this shows. Thanks for the suggestion. SJ McCarthy - you have a good eye. Yes - it's travertine in the great room. BUT (and it's a big one) the hall and kitchen are 12x12 ceramic, and no transition to the travertine. The dining room is yet a different 12x12 ceramic - it coordinates pretty well, but was laid incorrectly and has no transition either. The travertine (which was there when we bought it) also has some big "flaws" in spots we can't cover. (Ok - maybe part of the variation but no one who has seen it would have accepted them....) We had to replace the bedroom carpet so we put down "looks nice/inexpensive while we decide further". Your estimate is about right to low on 'all tile' - about 1500 sq feet of tile to take out, then 2500 to put down - which is why we are talking about LVP. So - a few options now that we're this far into the story: * Leave carpet in the bedrooms, and tile the rest. My husband would likely prefer this. We're from the north and he just can.not.imagine hard surface flooring in the bedrooms. Of course, it's a split plan layout, and 3 bathrooms. If we do this we then have to decide if bathrooms match common area (probably yes)...and find hard surface that works with the carpet (probably doable). Still probably $20k+ since we'd have to remove existing and redo. * Bite the bullet and put hard surfaces everywhere now - whether tile or LVP. Part of the issue is that, while we aren't looking to sell in the foreseeable future, we would not likely get the money out from tile vs LVP. * Leave it as it is for a while. I'd like to decide now as we're redoing the master bathroom in the next six months (starting to get design work now) and if we're putting hard surface down I'd like it to be the same we're putting elsewhere. If we decide to keep carpet in the bedrooms it's less of an issue - can't see master bath from anywhere but our room and this may be where we end up. But if for some reason there was an LVP we love, it might sway us away from this. Again - really appreciate the insights and looking forward to more of them -