What type of attorney do I need?
Annegriet
11 months ago
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Annegriet
11 months agolast modified: 11 months agoRelated Discussions
Do we need a RE attorney? (buying)
Comments (5)Agree with a prior poster that custom varies in different jurisdictions, but in my opinion it's always money well spent. It shouldn't cost much for an ordinary course purchase (and if it's not ordinary course, you definitely want a lawyer!). My attorney negotiated something (that was pretty ordinary course but not in the form contract) that ended up being very helpful. A family member who did not engage an attorney had a title issue come up later. (Which of course shouldn't have happened with or without representation, but I have to believe that an outside lawyer would've caught it.)...See MoreHELP - I need an attorney
Comments (14)"We reached out to builder and he continues to say it is drainage and it is our fault." How is that your fault?? I am so sorry this is happening to you. I'm in DFW as well (HEB). We've had some issues with doors not closing/closing properly, as well, due to soil/settlements etc.,--it's Texas!--but the cracks and such seem excessive to me. (Who is the builder, if I can ask? You can PM me if you don't want to say publicly; I won't go public with it, either, I'm just potentially looking at having some building work done on my property in the next six months or so.) My best advice would be to contact one of those foundation repair places--Pinnacle seems to have good reviews/ratings, or Brown or Solid, but that's just from a quick Google search; I'm sure there are others or maybe one of your engineers will know of a good one. Most of those companies are used to working with insurance companies and attorneys and such (afaik), and they'll offer a free assessment. So that's another statement/evaluation from a professional specializing in foundations & concrete, who is experienced with this exact sort of issue, to add to the pile--as well as someone who can do the repairs if needed (as @strategery says, you may legally need to mitigate the damage asap) and who has probably seen this exact type of owner/builder issue before and might very well know of a good attorney or two they can recommend. I really hope that helps! I'm sorry I don't have a name for you, and again I'm sorry this is happening--how awful. I wish you the best of luck--please update us if you can! (NOTE: I am not affiliated in any way with any foundation repair companies, including those mentioned above, and am not recommending them based on personal experience; I have no knowledge of them outside of seeing positive reviews on Google/TrustPilot/Angie's List/etc. I am not an attorney, either.)...See MoreWhat type of range hood do I need to buy to do this?
Comments (17)Hi Jeannie, I love my kitchen! I spent over a year planning it and pouring over pics on Houzz. I even found my architect on Houzz, just like the videos say. :-) Here's the photo with measurements for the cabinets. If those aren't the ones you wanted to know about, I'll try again. The ones I've shown are all double doors. They have magnetic touch latches so no pull hardware needed. I do have finger pulls on the trash/recycle and the spice pull out but otherwise, no hardware. I don't have this brand, but here's a video about the hardware https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HlNht6yDzpM. I really wanted the cabinets to look like furniture, not a kitchen. I agree, the pull on the vent hood is plenty for me and the CFMs are regulated by code based on the range, so it is the same as a traditional one. Yes, it's ducted to the outside. The cabinet maker put stops on the cabinets so they don't open so as to not be tempted to cram stuff around the venting (he knew me too well apparently), so I can't send a picture of the venting, but it's just ugly old hood venting that goes through the roof and out. The ducting was added by the contractor. It didn't come with the hood. Here is the other one recommended by my architect. I see they have a 36" one. https://zephyronline.com/product/pisa-vent-hood-under-cabinet/ Good luck with you kitchen!...See MoreWhat type of shower “handle” do I need to buy for these 2 valves
Comments (2)Well, 3-230C is for cold water and 3-230H is for hot water, so they are not what you want. I am going to bet that 3-230 and 3-230B have some clear difference such as one is for a 1.2" supply pipe and one is for a 3/4" water supply pipe. If you look at the further details, look for the one thing that they do not have in common and you will figure out the difference. Do you know if you have 1/2" or 1/4" water supply pipes going into the shower? The 3-1003-TR is a thermostatic valve and diverter in the same circle base, for a 1/2" water supply line. To see if it fits, go measure the distance between the center of the two pipes sticking out of your wall and see if that matches the measurement in the catalog description. You may have to look at the specification sheet. It sounds like you may not know what kind of shower you have. Either it is a thermostatic valve with a separate on/off valve. In this kind, the temperature (thermostatic) valve is set at the temperature you want and never has to move between showers (unless someone who likes a different temperature showers between your showers). You turn on the on/off valve only, and can control the volume to any strength between off and full. OR, you have a pressure-balanced shower control where you turn it on and as you get it further to the right, it gets hotter and stronger. You can't control the strength of the shower water, except by turning the hot/cold control. The second piece coming out of the wall directs the place the water is supposed to go. It could be to a bathtub filler or to a shower head or to a second shower head, or to body sprays. Some control two things only, others control three. If you are not in California, some will let you turn on two at the same time. With the builder telling you to get the diverter and valve, it sounds to me like you have a pressure-balance VALVE and need a DIVERTER to direct the water to one of two or three functions (shower head, tub filler...). But maybe not! You cannot be sure if you do not know what those valves sticking out of the wall are for. Are they 1/2" water supply or 3/4"? Is it a thermostatic valve or a pressure-balance valve? Is the other one a diverter to chose between tub and shower functions, or is it an on and off and volume valve for one shower head? Both of the valves you are showing are for thermostatic valves. Neither are for pressure-balance, so that is why the instructions to get a valve and diverter are confusing me. By now, your builder will be back tomorrow, so all this is moot. But I thought I would try to give you a primer on the different kinds of shower controls so you would know more when you talk to him. Your other option is to go read the boxes of the Newport valves that are in your walls. Is there a box the builder throws things in to be seen in the work area? Look for the boxes the valves in your walls came out of and read their part numbers. Then go pull them up on the search box on the website and see what kind they are....See Morefoodonastump
11 months agolast modified: 11 months agomaire_cate
11 months agochloebud
11 months agoAnnegriet
11 months agoAnnegriet
11 months agoAnnegriet
11 months agoAnnegriet
11 months agoAnnegriet
11 months agolast modified: 11 months agofoodonastump
11 months agoAnnegriet
11 months agoAnnegriet
11 months agofoodonastump
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10 months ago
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