Ideas on hiding gap between tub and floor

2 months ago

There is an uneven gap between our new tub and tiled floor. Looking for ideas to fill the gap that are both aesthetically pleasing and will prevent water issues.

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Comments (3)

palimpsest
2 months ago
If you can't fill it in with more tile and caulk the edge, I would get someone to fabricate a piece of white solid surface like Corian that matched the tub as a trim piece.
Kate
2 months ago
Why is there a gap at all?
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The vertical wall seams crack more readily because the house shifts and moves. Ive tried grouting only and going back to caulk with sanded grout caulk or silicon only after a crack develops, hoping in some cases it will not. Sometimes it does not crack. Some contractors caulk all seams as a matter of course, no callbacks, safer. I liked the idea of sanded grout caulk to match your grout color It has not held up for me in wet conditions, such as the top of the bathtub where the wall tile starts, etc. , definitely not along the shower floor where the wall tile starts. It has held up in other areas though, and looks nicer when it all ties in. I agree, mildew on silicon is unsightly. Every bathroom has different conditions, including ventilation, moisture, etc. Some people have to clean out and recaulk the silicon every year or two. Whether its allegedly mildewproof silicon or not.
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I think you are describing the same problem we had. Here is the link where I got some good advice. We ended up using the trim tile and it looks fine. Here is a link that might be useful: tub gap thread
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I found out that there is a gap between the tile and tub that would be too big for caulk. It's one of those things where in the grand scheme of things, it isn't worth a battle - especially since the way the designer laid out the tiles in the design there would have been a gap ... plus the designer originally had shoe molding around all the baseboard. It's one of those details I didn't really look at until the tile was already installed. Now that I see the bathtub without all the construction materials in it and decided to go with the baseboard without shoemolding, I can live with what we have. Weedyacres, I really like the quarter round you have - it looks very natural with the bathroom. Thanks. It makes me feel better to see that this isn't that unusual.
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Thanks for all the comments. I ended up getting a nice 13 amp grinder with a concrete grinding wheel. Since about 1/5th of the floor is the hump I opted for the grinding. So far I have taken about 1/4" down. As far as the "pros" and "experts"... this concrete was done by the "pros". The rough framing which I've had to fix in multiple spots was also done by "pros". The HVAC runs that I have had to re-adjust so that sheet rock will fit on the walls was done by "experts". The upstairs tub, which had the overflow leak all over the downstairs ceiling, was also done by an "expert". All those things are what makes me a DIYer. Thanks again for all the perspectives.
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palimpsest
2 months ago
The bathroom in my old place, which was built in 1840, was off square. There was a row of mosaic at the wall and at the edge of the tub that needed to be cut to fit the tapered space available.

Sometimes you have to choose which wall will get the straight looking tile and which wall will not. Its possible here that the tile was set to be 100 at the doorway and the tub wall is off. But there could have been other decisions made so that the narrowest end had half a tile instead of a full tile and the rest of the taper would have been from half a tile and larger to minimize the number of slivers.

It becomes problematic too when there is a pattern that shows the non-parallel shape. I knew someone who had an octagon and dot floor where there was almost a full black dot at one end and a sliver at the other, and that drove me crazy.

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Ideas on hiding gap between tub and floor

Comments (3)

palimpsest

Kate

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