That's not my bathroom. I have a regular shower door - a big one - that attaches to a narrow fixed panel, which, in turn is attached to the wall stud. I linked to a photo on the Bel Pre Glassworks site. As pharaoah stated, the panel is fixed. Note that there is NO overhead bar. Glass panels are popular in Europe. The ones that I have seen (and gotten water splashed everywhere but - seeming - inside the shower) are hinged at the wall and have a silicone sweep at the bottom. I think that OP needs to find another glass specialist, one who specializes in shower doors.

Yeah, so, the web sites are next to useless. Forgot - I gave up trying to figure it out on Build.com and went to the Moen site, which isn't much better. After I selected, went back to Build.com to buy. My alcove is 58 & 3/8". If you filter on 'Shower Rods' and 'Chrome' (if that's the finish you want - see link below) you get 11 choices. (Note, if you filter on 'Curved Shower Rods' you only get 1 choice - go figure.) With the link below, you throw out the bottom two because they're tension rods and the double rod if you don't want that. Leaves 8. What's the difference besides the price and the end cap? When you check the description, it will say "adjustable for 5' to 6' alcove" - that's the tube within a tube kind. The ones that say "designed to fit a 5' surround securely" means it's a fixed size and you have to cut it if it's too big. Since 5' is 60", I went with CSR2165 and will have to cut off a little less than 2". CSR2166 is the same only for 6' opening (72") or less. With the curved rods, you don't want to be too far away. Cutting off too much won't work, unless you maintain the angle, although the pivoting mounting on some helps. Here is a link that might be useful: Moen Chrome Shower Rods This post was edited by DreamingoftheUP on Sun, Apr 6, 14 at 16:39

Thanks. On the wedi website I saw two methods for patching. One was with the joint sealant and the other was with the tape and modified thinset. Since we don't have thinset I decided to go with the joint sealant. This is what wedi had to say about the two methods: All excess wedi sealant is spread flat over all joints using a putty knife. Where needed, an extra bead of sealant is applied on top of the joints and spread flat. The joints should be covered a full 3/4” – 1” on both sides of the seam. ... Alternatively, wedi sealing tape can be used instead of the wedi Joint Sealant and applied in modified thinset. .... Please consider: sealing tape is installed in cement based thinset and can allow pressing water to migrate under the tape. The thinset holding the tape can also not provide protection against movement. Both challenges are addressed more efficiently by using wedi Joint Sealant. Happily I found the wedi fastners, joint sealant and corner putty knife on line so that is headed our way. -------------------------------------- We just heard from the solid panel company and they have a corner seat. But they recommend blocking behind the boards. So we will have to consider if we will remove the wedi, install blocking, and reinstall or just go with out a corner seat. It is a metal frame the screws into the wall and then the material fits over it like a clam shell. We may be able to get the blocking in through the plumbing access panel on one wall and get away with only screwing into the studs on the other wall. Or we could cut a chunk of wedi out, install blocking and then patch. ---------------------------------------- On another topic, we found the base distinctly crunchy. The base installation instructions say to set it in mortar and let it cure for 24 hours. The installer set it in the morning and was walking on it shortly thereafter, thus leaving small cavities under the material. Hopefully we won't notice this when the shower is running. I don't think it is structurally compromised so we will leave it in. ----------------------------------------- Samples of the solid panels should be arriving tonight. Hope we like the material.

Well, I'm not an expert. But, the curb should have a very slight slope toward the inside of the shower. And then they put in a clear gasket, or a clear bead of silicone (?). Since I'm not a pro, I'm telling you what I see in mine. There are codes and practices for slope of the curb, and specific materials. When I interview shower door glass providers, I'd show them the other shower, and ask, How would you have done this differently? Also, you can put in search terms at the top bar above like "frameless shower leak" and read about the bad installations, so that you can prevent it happening to you. Frameless is done so often now, that I don't think of it as a leak risk. The real risk, as presented so often in these forums, is that waterproofing the shower was done incorrectly or not at all. Now THAT is an area where contractors take shortcuts. If I ever have a bathroom re-done, I'll ask a LOT of questions about the contractor's knowledge of waterproofing, what system they use, whether they are aware that I expect them to follow the codes and standards, and I'll be taking photographs of the materials and layers of the shower during prep and tiling, for my files.