Large gap between new leveled tub and concrete floor.

4 years ago

last modified: 4 years ago

I'm in new construction and I am about to install a tub with surround. In order for the surround sections to line up properly, it is imperative that the tub portion be level. However, with the tub leveled on all four sides, the gap between the tub and the concrete floor at one end is up to 3/4 of an inch! In general there is a bit of a rise in the concrete floor where the PVC drain stubs were roughed in for the tub and the toilet.

Eventually, this bathroom will have in-floor heating, thin-set mortar, and ceramic tile installed. I don't install tile, so I'm not familiar with the amount of flexibility one has in the amount of gap one can make up when tiling, but 3/4" would seem like too much in my opinion (I tend toward precision in the work I do).

I'm not asking about shimming or mortaring the tub, that's not the problem. But before I commit to tub placement and screw this tub in, do I need to put in some self-leveling concrete to make up at least some of the difference with the floor, grind down the high spot? What's the best course of action?

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PRO

Mint tile Minneapolis

4 years ago

last modified: 4 years ago

"I don't install tile, so I'm not familiar with ..."

Focus equally as hard on sourcing and hiring a qualified tile setter for your project, and put the leveling liability on their plate by having them handle all the tile PREP work. I personally rarely engage in any tile floor or wet area project where someone other than myself does all the tile prep work.

And understand there is A level floor, and an flat IN plane floor both of which can be tiled so get that clarified in your tile contracts detailed scope..

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Comments (9)

PRO
Debbi Washburn
4 years ago
I will leave this to pros for setting the tub... But I always thought that acrylic tubs needed to be set like a shower base is done - with a structol-lite base....

Are you installing the tile? What size is it? I would think that a level floor would be needed...

Hopefully one of the great tile gurus will drop in! I would like to know the answer to this as well!
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The bathtub is level. Floor is not. What about the gap?
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It does look like that only not so exaggerated, and it is still in the cement backer board phase. The floor is an inch out of level across 5 feet and that's before it goes really down hill outside the bathroom, so leveling it in the bathroom would create a significant "step" up into the bathroom. (The wall is also about 4" out of square across 11 feet). I am mostly concerned that the bathtub have adequate support under it too. My situation will be closer together than you've shown Bill, but we are headed toward a gap, and vinyl base isn't going to cut it. I was thinking of using Daltile's quarter round ceramic tile between the floor and tub as one solution. My contractor has actually been good so far, and has done other bathrooms in this (problematic)complex, and has done a good job. One difference has been that most people have used rather thick large format tile which may cover some discrepancies better (although I know the floor has to be "flatter" for these to avoid cracks), another is the location of the bathrooms within those houses and their relative "level"ness.
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Good morning guys, Eric is right, John, the tub is not yet installed. We were about to do it, yesterday, when this new snafu came to light. And Eric, thank you for your encouragement. Yes, this project has proven quite exciting so far... and needlessly costly. At this point, I don't know if I should cry or just sit down and write a book! The GC showed up at our house yesterday afternoon after I threatened to sue him. He still has not brought in all that I have already paid for, and when I told him about the 3" gap, his jaw just dropped. While I was busy with the plumbers and the electricians, he went and fitted two small pieces of plywood over the floor in the podium to try and raise the floor to meet the footing of the bath. He cut those pieces no bigger than the footing of the bath. Not only are they not high enough, but such short pieces will prevent the weight of the tub to distribute evenly over the whole floor. Me thinks, anyhow. Anywhooo... John, this bathtub does not come with little adjusting legs. It is pre-leveled on a board which is meant to lie flat on a levelled floor. I'm adding a picture for you to see better. What I am thinking of doing is making a few blotches, or mounds, of mortar and squish the bath in place. I'm thinking little mounds will be easier to squish into than a large solid surface, plus I don't want to add too much extra weight. We've had all our floor joists doubled but this is an old house and it needs to be treated gently... Eric, the reason I hesitate to fill the gap with lumber is that I won't be able to shim level the bath on all four side once it is dropped in place because the corner it sits in is on exterior walls. Perhaps a combination of the two methods would work well. One thing is for sure, my GC is now toast and this project has now officially been downgraded (some, including me right now, would say upgraded) to a DIY project. Oh well, it's only money, right.... Sniff, sniff.... ;-( Here is a link that might be useful: 3
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Hm, I had been wondering if you'd taken the past surround *down* or just put the new surround over it. If you've *taken it down* and you didn't see any rot behind the sheetrock when you removed it, then I'd venture to say that you're safe. There was *no* black or otherwise unpleasant anything where the low point was? Checking downstairs will eliminate the other one possibility, which would be that the rot went straight down and didn't communicate upwards at all into anything you removed. Which would be odd, but I guess possible. Maybe you just had *really good* sealing. We don't.
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Geoffreys almost got it. In the professional world, I would make it right starting with removing this and doing it correct from framing thru to waterproofing You have the wrong tub to start and the Flange needs to be be properly lapped and the waterproofing tied into it or you will have issues in time. You need the durock to be graded toward the tub, lapped over the flange and either A moisture barrier siliconed to the flange under the durock (which is a piss poor approach when you consider putting screws thru the moisture barrier on a tub deck but it is still accpeted as a practice.) *The smarter way is to use a topical membrane that ties into the tub deck with A proper sealant that will lap the tub/durock joint and stop durock from wicking.. Also read the durock installation specs in regards to screw courses.and framing specs. If im in somebodys home accepting payment *Thats how its done..but we are on the web here....do as you wish..
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PRO
Creative Tile Eastern CT
4 years ago
I'll second TFW comment. Reason we don't go over someone else's prep is if it fails our phone will ring with the complaint. Once we install tile on it we accepted the substrate. Now we own it. Sorry. Not going to take that risk.
_sophiewheeler
4 years ago
last modified: 4 years ago
Everything started with the foundation pour, and the oversight and experience provided there. Then, framing.

At this point, the experts have to weigh the cost and time of the different bandaids that are needed. I suggest you hire one of those experts.

https://www.ceramictilefoundation.org/homeowners-guide-to-hiring-qualified-tile-installer
PRO
Joseph Corlett, LLC
4 years ago
You can bring the floor to the tub, but you can't bring the tub to the floor.
PRO
Johnson Flooring Co Inc
4 years ago
It looks like a little grinding over on the right end of the tub might allow it to set low enough so that the left end could be floated up a bit and the tile will hide whatever gap is left.
D H
Original Author
4 years ago
Thanks for all the comments. I ended up getting a nice 13 amp grinder with a concrete grinding wheel. Since about 1/5th of the floor is the hump I opted for the grinding. So far I have taken about 1/4" down. As far as the "pros" and "experts"... this concrete was done by the "pros". The rough framing which I've had to fix in multiple spots was also done by "pros". The HVAC runs that I have had to re-adjust so that sheet rock will fit on the walls was done by "experts". The upstairs tub, which had the overflow leak all over the downstairs ceiling, was also done by an "expert". All those things are what makes me a DIYer. Thanks again for all the perspectives.
PRO
Mint tile Minneapolis
4 years ago
last modified: 4 years ago
If you require help perfecting your hiring and selecting process im sure many here can help ,how to weed out the hacks and imposters, how to have simple yet smart contracts etc... :)
acm
4 years ago
if they're doing heated floors, then there will be a layer of self-leveling thinset on top of the current floors anyway, so you might not want the tub to sit down too far or it will be engulfed in the eventual floor.

somebody needs to be coordinating the trades here!!

Large gap between new leveled tub and concrete floor.

Mint tile Minneapolis

Comments (9)

Debbi Washburn

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Original Author

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Large gap between new leveled tub and concrete floor.

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