Can't say it any clearer. ;) None of the listed crops require any special care or concern. All are very cold, even frost, even snow tolerant. Even when full grown. All of the root crops can, in fact, be left in the ground in the winter and harvested as need and spring green peas keep right on trucking even if it snows on them. The only time you have to be concerned about them is if the ground itself freezes and it takes days of a deep, hard freeze to to that. Dave

adastra09 - as the others have mentioned, are you using a light set-up for your plants? If not, then you need one (see the FAQ here) and if so then either it isn't enough or it is too far away from the plants. Most young seedlings don't require any feeding. Plants yes, seedlings no. If your plants are already quite long and lanky with weak stems then there really isn't alot to can do to improve them except transplant them into larger containers and, when possible, plant them deeply up to just below the lowest set of leaves. But without sufficient light they will just stretch out all over again. Leafy greens, things that don't have stems but which grow from the base cluster can't be deep transplanted. In some cases you can give them a bit of a haircut back to about 3 inches and they will send up new leaves. But again without lots of light they will just stretch out again. So providing sufficient artificial light is the primary solution to your problem. That and not starting your plants so early. ;) Dave Here is a link that might be useful: Growing from Seed FAQ

Steve - from your link, I found this page which has to be just about the most informative webpage I think anyone has ever created regarding growing tomatoes. I searched high and low for something like this the past couple of years and came up emptyhanded. Very good stuff! If all else fails, I have another four of each variety tomato that've sprouted down in the basement as of ~10 days ago, so no huge loss...but I really wanted to definitively know what caused this so I could prevent in the future. Sounds like the MooNure alone (for repotting) was a poor idea from the getgo. May've made one or two other mistakes along the way as well. Thanks y'all. If anyone else has any commentary or thoughts, please do share. Three years later and I'm still a newb at this.

I'm in the midst of an experiment growing another generation of oak seedlings. This time it's Quercus rubra (Northern Red Oak). Nurseries that sell oaks generally cut their taproots so they won't spiral. Fortunately, they can grow new ones in short time, but I wanted to allow taproots to remain intact by planting acorns in 3" dia. x 18" deep cardboard tubes with plastic caps on the bottom. Here's my results so far: 1) I collected a bucket of soil from beneath a stand of Oregon White Oaks for the soil's mycorrhizae and mixed it 50-50 with regular potting soil. 2) I collected acorns lying on our first snow, took them home and soaked them in water for 24 hours. 3) I placed them in a ziplock bag with some moist soil and cold stratified them at 34 degrees in the refrigerator for a month. 4) I them placed them in a pot and covered them with about an inch of soil and placed the pot inside the house where the ambient temperature was about 68 degrees. I checked them every couple of days for the emergence of a radicle. They grow out fast! 5) With a 1" root coming out, I planted each in their own deep pot, covered with an inch of soil and in waited for stem emergence. Took only several days at most. 6) I grew them indoors during the winter and into the Spring. By early Summer, the leaves had been on long enough for the little 6" tall trees to think fall was coming, so they began to get a beautiful red in the leaves, albeit slowly, due to the warmer temperatures. 7) I put the pots outside in mid September to allow them to acclimate. In early October, I planted 3 of the 7 in the ground with onset of Fall as the last remaining leaves dropped. 8) Once I removed the 3 (I planted) from their pots, I studied the root mass to find that it held the soil log together very well and that the tap root went nearly to the bottom. Just fine roots were present at the bottom, but it told me that the depth was adequate for 1-year's root growth. So with the taproot in place, they'll establish quickly and be more resistent to drought as they would naturally. As for the other 4 trees, they have been left outside to endure the winter with the pots exposed to temperatures that have dropped into the minus single digits (Zone 6). I want to see how resilient the roots of Quercus rubra are under these conditions and will post my findings in the late Spring.