Hi Nikki, There is a page on the internet that shows pictures of every phase of growing seedlings. I don't know the gentleman who put this on the internet, and there is not a lot of explanation with the pictures, but it took a lot of effort to get this site all together. The only unfortunate part is that the pictures are not in the correct sequence. Many of the pictures about starting seeds have dates to show their progress, so use the dates to get the sequence. Lots of pictures also about pollinating, seed pod formation, seed storage, record keepping, etc. Just remember, this is one person's way of doing things - - not the only way. Hope you are as successful in getting them through to spring when you can plant them outside as you have been in getting them to germinate. Larry Here is a link that might be useful: Eldon Welch's Daylilies

No roots formed, but it did keep growing, so I slipped it out of the seed coat, and flipped it over into the ground. We will see if it will root or just die....

Rain Lilies as in Zephyranthes? Not very frost hardy (one ref I have says not to be left in the ground where temps get below 25F) so probably best in a pot kept just frost-free for you. The hardiest species are supposed to be atamasca, candida and grandiflora. They like bright light and rich soil with plenty of moisture but not overly wet in winter. The non-evergreen ones benefit from a slightly drier resting period followed by a drenching to encourage a flush of flowers. Those I've grown from seed have taken the usual 3 years or so to flower. The seeds are winged, which is usually a clue not to bury things too deeply. Scatter them over the surface and then lightly cover with potting sand or similar - just enough to anchor them in place. Use a potting mix that is free-draining but moisture retentive, something like equal parts of sand, peat and loam. Good Luck

Hi Fayeraven, If they have miniature stems and leaves they are probably not from the original bulbs but from offset bulblets. When some bulbs get stressed they respond by making more than the usual amount of bulblets and, unfortunately, then usually expiring. While most of my lilies were OK this year I have a group of oriental Siberia that really suffered. Not one large stem has come up - though small stems have. It's right next to some trumpets (Leucanthum) which are doing OK. But some other younger Orientals in the same bed are struggling a bit. But then, most of my soil is heavy clay. And while the bed was amended with peat moss at one time - organic amendments decay away. I'm going to add a decent amount of sand to that bed. This is the second time Siberia has done this - both times in clay soil. Another batch of Siberia is fine. That bed that is in a stepped up area in my backyard that is a very grainy fill -from when they graded the yard 100 years ago. (They just put whatever down back then!) It look's terrible but it the only spot in the yard that isn't clay. While that soil doesn't look nutritious at ALL, the lilies there, Siberia, Regale, and Triumphator, are not having any problems. And I never fertilize my lilies. The other main culprits that can wipe out bulbs, besides rot due to drainage problems, are stem borers and winter hungry furry "critters" (squirrels, moles, voles) but stem borers would have happened after large stems emerged. -Helen