It's hard to belive somebody in Miami is getting damp off. Are they too cold from air conditioning? When I had damp off before, they were too cold, too wet, and not getting enough light. I sow in a community pot now because the bigger pot disperses water better and the crowded seedlings, instead of blocking air circulation from each other as I'd expected, seem to spur each other into better, bigger growth. Now I never get it -- knock on wood -- and I don't even use sterile potting mix or wash out my pots. (I do rinse them out, just not very weell, and I don't use soap or anything.) Lime

3) the use of fungicide-treated seed with high germination (see Agricultural Chemicals Manual; specify treated seed before purchasing), ***** Above is the only comment I saw that pertained to seed from the NCSU site and I agree that most of their links are very good. But the site is for professional growers and doesn't distinguish between the genera and species that cause damping off with flowers as opposed to certain vegetables and those fungi are different. I can't see home growers using any of the products mentioned as an anti-fungal for seeds,nor requesting that treated seeds be sent, which is common for squash and other cucurbits but not tomatoes, but Benomyl is not all that resticted and could be used at the first sign of damping off with tomato seedlings. The majority of the other products are not available to the home grower and one has to have a pesticide license to get them and some are banned in certain states. What I seldom see written is that tomato seedlings can come up and show no evidence of damping off but then at 4-6 inches do, keel over and die. I never knew that until I saw a picture and description of it in one of my tomato pathology books. Carolyn Here is a link that might be useful: damping off

Spectracide Weed Stop is a common broadleaf plant killer containing 2,4,D, Dicambra, and something else that does not come to mind right off. While it is not a really good product to use and while it can also kill plants you want to keep if due care in use is not observed, it is not quite as bad as some others mainly becasue the formulation is not really very strong. It is not quite as bad as maifleur makes the stuff out to be, and the manufacturer will simply tell you there is no problem. The most bestest way to control "weeds" in your lawn is to get that lawn into a good, healthy condition and that starts with a good, reliable soil test. Contact your counties office of your Colorado State University Cooperative Extension Service about having that done and also dig in with these simple soil tests, 1) Structure. From that soil sample put enough of the rest to make a 4 inch level in a clear 1 quart jar, with a tight fitting lid. Fill that jar with water and replace the lid, tightly. Shake the jar vigorously and then let it stand for 24 hours. Your soil will settle out according to soil particle size and weight. A good loam will have about 1-3/4 inch (about 45%) of sand on the bottom. about 1 inch (about 25%) of silt next, about 1 inch (25%) of clay above that, and about 1/4 inch (about 5%) of organic matter on the top. Drainage. Dig a hole 1 foot square and 1 foot deep and fill that with water. After that water drains away refill the hole with more water and time how long it takes that to drain away. Anything less than 2 hours and your soil drains too quickly and needs more organic matter to slow that drainage down. Anything over 6 hours and the soil drains too slowly and needs lots of organic matter to speed it up. 3) Tilth. Take a handful of your slightly damp soil and squeeze it tightly. When the pressure is released the soil should hold together in that clump, but when poked with a finger that clump should fall apart. 4) Smell. What does your soil smell like? A pleasant, rich earthy odor? Putrid, offensive, repugnant odor? The more organic matter in your soil the more active the soil bacteria will be and the nicer your soil will smell. 5) Life. How many earthworms per shovel full were there? 5 or more indicates a pretty healthy soil. Fewer than 5, according to the Natural Resources Conservation Service, indicates a soil that is not healthy. which can guide you toward a good, healthy soil that will grow a good, healthy lawn that will crowd out "weed" growth so you don't need those poisons. Here is a link that might be useful: CSU CES

Make sure they get plenty of light (see "Do I need special lights") and fertilize weekly (see" I'm new to starting seeds...?). When they're big enough to handle,usually when they have 2-3 sets of leaves, it's time to transplant them to individual containers,or space them out if you have them in a community flat. Those sown in individual containers should be thinned to the strongest seedling by snipping off the extras with scissors. Now that damping -off is less of a risk, you may want to use a part soil mix for "potting on", 1 part sterile potting soil to 2 parts vermiculite or perlite and /or sphagnum or peat, for the sake of economy. If you need to transplant,very carefully dig up the plants, with a knife or wooden label,etc.,taking care to get under the roots. Separate them gently, handling them by the leaves rather than the easily-damaged stems . I often use a pencil to help untangle the roots, using the same pencil to poke a hole in the soil ,making it deep enough that the roots can dangle and the seedling can be placed at the same depth it was growing previously. Firm the soil around the roots, and water well. Repeat until you're cross-eyed,then start again the next day..... Weather permitting ,seedlings may be transplanted outdoors at this stage ,or grown on indoors for larger transplants. Before planting out, seedlings or young plants must be "hardened off" over a period of 10-14 days. Begin by putting plants out in shade, giving some shelter from wind, and gradually exposing them to sun, maybe an hour at first,increasing an hour each day. Cut back on watering,but don't let them go completely dry. Once they're hardened off, they're ready to go outside permanently (where they belong!!). If possible,pick a cloudy day . Again, try to handle the roots with care,and set the plant at the same depth it was growing (though tomatoes benefit by being planted deeper,roots will form along the stem)firm the soil around the roots and water well, a dilute solution of water-soluble 15-30-15(a teaspoon to a gallon of water) will help stimulate the roots. When all your plants are in the ground, fix yourself a tall,cool one and celebrate !