I have absolutely no issues with using the proclassic primer and didn't need to practice with it at all. I guess I just don't get that. I also have used many a brush, but like the nylon for this application. I don't have brush strokes...but I don't paint as much as a pro so perhaps it's use and use and use :) I think that people are reading the information in my clipping incorrectly. The COLOR code I put in there is for a color called Woodsey Brown which is an exterior color (you typically get more deep tones in exterior colors) but the PAINT is NOT and exterior paint. Just the color! The proclassic primer adhears to ANY surface, without sanding. I love the stuff because I've used it on some very glossy surfaces and it's held like magic! I do wash surfaces and make sure they're free of dust and dirt, but I rarely sand anymore. My professional painter was very skeptical but is now sold on the quality of these two products together. The primer is a gem, and the quality of the top coat is wonderful as well. I like a high quality finish and a strong finish as well...and together these two will give you that in any combination of colors ;)

Thanks. I read the other thread. I'm never sure of the protocol...start a new thread or potentially highjack someone else's. We ordered the doors at the time we got new windows. So the window company has lined up the 'finish guy' for the doors. We were given the choice of having them installed unfinished or sending them out to be finished. I've had houses and doors painted before. I thought that since we're going to be having the exterior and lots of the interior painted, it wouldn't be a big deal for them to be installed unfinished and done by the painter here. But I've been told several places that they'll be much nicer this way. So I feel quite a bit of pressure to make 'the right' choices on color since it's not just a matter of slapping a different color on if it's not just right. I appreciate the input.

Spanish cedar is fairly soft for a door. It's equivalent to white pine. It dents very easily. I would suggest Sapelle instead, it should be the same cost or perhaps a bit cheaper; the good Spanish Cedar has become hard to find. It was "plentiful and cheap" 10 years ago. Anyway, both of these woods exhibit wavy grain patterns that can create blotchiness. I would stain on top of a sealer coat to prevent this. Make sure the stain is light-fast (no dyes; earth pigments only) But with an exterior exposure you need a top coat with the highest amount of UV protection, so you aren't having to revarnish every year. With a top-quality varnish you can extend this to three years between re-coats. If you wait too long it will have to be stripped and start fresh. Aside: sapelle is quite a bit darker than Sp. Ced. to begin with, and a small amount of color will render an amazing mahgany or walnut color. Casey

@Windows on WashingtonLtd and @grafefruit1_ar Ideas on layout of new windows? Stick with casements? Double hung? The large front window is one large framed opening with a double casement, a picture window, a double casement. The sections on either side of the fixed section look different because of window screens. Here's a close up: Altogether it's about 10.5' x 5' of single pane steel casement loveliness *insert eye roll*. You both make a good point about vinyl. When we bought our home 21 years ago, there was no vinyl that would have looked nice enough to use on the front of the house. The choices were pretty much Anderson or Marvin wood windows. Vinyl has come such a long way in terms of both quality and looks. The contractor that did all the windows also built our great deck, and helped us remodel our family room: contacted him about our current kitchen remodel. We had a good conversation about it and asked me to email him the plans. I did. Never heard back. Called and texted again, never heard back :-( Very disappointed. Thank you for your feedback