I'm guilty... Twice on different push mowers within 3 weeks... Was going through my blade sharpening routine... Pull plug wire, remove blade, etc... I couldn't get my 'M' lawnboy to fire for anything... Put it back in the shed and mowed w/ the 10685 (Tec 4stroke). A week or so later did the same thing w/ the 10685 and when I was going back into the shed for tools happened to glance at the 'M' and saw the plug wire hanging... Then looked back at the 10685 sitting right outside and sure enough, that wire was off too... Too many other things going on I guess... Just lose track of the obvious and most probable solutions.

Condensation on a window is caused by warmer air in a space contacting a colder structure, wall, door, window, mirror etc. No reason whatsoever to ventilate, might as well leave the window open a crack to lower the breezeway temperature. Yes the leaking room helped with the condensation as the internal and external differential temperature were less than now. It is warmer in the breezeway now, for certain. That is why newer windows are of higher R values helps keep condensation down,glass will still fog up if the difference between the interior temp of the room, car, etc with higher relative humidity is great enough compared to the interior temp of the glass. Thus turning the water as a gas into it's liquid form. You may experience moisture on the window of the north wall fogging up more than the south window as that north exposure will be colder than the south. That is why in the woods we can tell north from south as the north side of a tree is darker than the south side of the tree. It simply sees less sunlight. First step is to install the windows properly and seal that leak. Remove the window and flash it properly. Spend a few dollars and replace the single pane storm with a double pane insulated window. Seal it using a low expansion foam sealant, there are foam sealants out there that cause more problems and can actually cause the window to leak. Some sealants contract over time creating gaps and some expand so greatly they will actually push the frame out of shape. Use a sealant specific to windows and doors. Replacing with an insulated window WILL stop the condensation for an unheated room, it will completely STOP the problem unless you use this breezeway to boil water in it. Where exactly is the water seen leaking in ? Above the window, below the window, beside it? Just because the leak shows at the window doesn't mean that's where the leak is. Water can migrate in the strangest of ways. I have found leaks many feet away from where it first shows itself. Once had a roof leak show on a first floor wall but the walls and ceiling on the floor directly below it was dry as a bone. Find the source of the leak first. I want you to replace the window with an insulated window regardless if the leak is from the window. However if replacing the storm window is not in the budget, which is certainly understandable, not all is lost. You can run a dehumidifier as a temporary fix until you replace the storm windows. Humidity should be between 50% and 60% in a space. Heck you might be in south FLA. Where humidity is an issue year long, usually adding humidity in the winter around here. Dehumidifier will stop the problem as well but it should be temporary. The money you will spend on your power bill will eventually be costing you more than the cost of new windows. With good windows you should be able to heat that room and not have moisture on the windows. Remember when I was a kid the windows in the kitchen were always fogged up, but not in the rest of the house. Which begs the question why is that room so damp? Is it on a slab, is it built directly on grade without a moisture barrier, is there a vent from the home that terminates in the ceiling from a bathroom or kitchen that originally vented to the exterior before the breezeway was built. I have seen it many times before. A friend of a friend built a new home this past summer and complained all the kitchen windows were fogging up now that winter is here. He cheaped out on windows, they were a steal he said, and his wife had the slow cooker going on the countertop close to the windows, and drinks tea continuously loading that kitchen with moisture. Moved the slow cooker, turned on the vent fan above the stove when cooking and problem solved, they still have windows that are going to cost him valuable hard earned coin over the years with heat loss. Pay me now or pay me latter as the saying goes. Hope this helps.

beagle...OMG Suavitel softeners are literally the ONLY softeners I avoid from 10 feet away. The scent is a killer. Their original one in the blue bottle smells somewhat "ok" in the bottle, but after using it...you can smell it from the next room away and it lasts forever on clothes. I teach with a woman who bathes her clothes in Suavitel, and it literally kills me, and I am NOT scent sensitive! Sorry, you should have asked us first. Try Snuggle Fresh Spring Flowers cut with water, and/or unscented Softener. I love it. Miele Care Softener is also very good, but you will have to hunt it down, or order online. Very clean, light and "natural".

@itsourcasa i see a couple tiles mentioned here. did you install the truewood cream floors from floor and decor? I absolutely love the pictures you shared a year or so ago. https://www.flooranddecor.com/porcelain-tile/truewood-cream-wood-plank-porcelain-tile-100480698.html