Oven vent for tight space?

last year

A forum here was so helpful for our vintage kitchen design on a budget! Since then, we moved the refrigerator into the pantry area on the left (see first “before” photo)…a contractor extended the space a bit so it’s mostly recessed now. We’re redoing the vinyl floor to a similar black/white checkered pattern porcelain tile—and added a butcher block stable we had in storagebuffet will be added under the window.

And as you can see on the second photo, the oven doesn’t quite fit the space allotted, but that’s what we have to work with. We’re adding a soffit at the top, and will add an oven vent below that, with duct venting to lead outside.
❓ Question: Would a stainless cylinder oven vent work for this setup? (I think it would look much better than extending a hood over the oven, calling more attention to the window frame behind it.) We found one that has 940 CFM. Has anyone used a cylinder? Think it will be effective? Or do you suggest we install a built-in exhaust fan under the soffit?
Thank you!

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Comments (11)

kathyjo
Original Author
last year
Sorry about the typos! Don’t see edit button. Meant to say we’re adding a buffet under the window, and moving the pendant to be above the butcher block.
kaseki
last year
Cooking effluent plumes expand as they rise from the pan/pot that is generating them. And for gas cooktops, there is a modestly larger diameter of combustion products added on. To capture the effluent, the hood has to overlap the plumes at the height of the hood. A cylinder is the wrong shape. You need a rectangle larger than the cooktop, or, with side skirts or cabinets, side obstructions that keep the plumes from expanding outside the hood entry aperture.

Note that hoods one can stand the noise level of do not suck up the plumes, but depend on the plumes' upward momentum to bring the plumes to the hood entry. Thus one cannot depend on CFM to pull in whatever is passing the hood boundary heading for the ceiling and by diffusion to the walls, furniture, and draperies.
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I was thinking along similar lines as Buehl's galley lay-out or swapping kitchen with DR. Another option is to go with the sink next to but not in the corner, like this: The sink size stay about the same but this configuration gives you a 24" drawer base, which is always a better storage option over 2 15" base cabinets. Buying one cabinet, even though a little larger, should save you some money, too. Or you can apply that savings to upgrading to a drawer base. I calculate your kitchen at 148 1/2" top to bottom. If you decide to add an island, stick with a shallow one, no more than 18" deep. That will give you 39 1/2" aisles between it and the sink run and between it and the fridge run. Keep in mind that the aisle will shrink from 39 1/2" to 36 1/2" between island and fridge door (not handles) assuming you're purchasing a counter depth fridge. The downside of an island in your kitchen is that it will be somewhat of a barrier island (between fridge and sink) but that compromise might be worth it for the additional storage and counter space a longish, narrow island would offer. It would be similar to these: If you buy a standard depth fridge, you absolutely don't have room for an island; your aisle will shrink by several more inches, creating a serious pinch point in your kitchen, even without the fridge door being open. These images illustrating NKBA's recommended minimums of aisles may be helpful: NKBA - National Kitchen and Bath Association.
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beeboo22
last year
I can’t answer knowledgeably about the exhaust question, but wanted to say your kitchen looks great. Love it!

Lots of readers on https://retrorenovation.com had the type of fan you’re describing, I think, but I have no idea if the fans work effectively. Looks-wise it would be perfect in that space.
kathyjo
Original Author
last year
Kaseki, thank you so very much! This was very helpful.

Beeboo22: I appreciate your comments, as well! Will look at that site now :)
palimpsest
last year
Maybe something like this that has a narrow case but a glass canopy so visually it will not conflict with the window as much:
kathyjo
Original Author
last year
Palimpsest, I think that’s a fabulous idea! Thank you
palimpsest
last year
The glass canopy will still overlap the trim. You may need to build up the wall immediately behind the metal part of the hood to the same thickness or slightly thicker than the trim so the glass canopy clears the window trim.
kaseki
last year
The plume capture area of that glass "hood" is just the area of the mesh. Plume components hitting the glass will predominantly be reflected outward and not captured.
palimpsest
last year
Maybe something with a little bit of a curve will capture a little more than flat.

Also this glass is going to get greasy and need to be cleaned a lot.

On the other hand short of either redoing your entire kitchen to move the range or bricking up the window, you are not going to get the ideal range hood with perfect characteristics over that range.

Don't let "perfect or nothing at all" mentality rule the day. Surely a range hood that captures some of the vapors is better than nothing at all.
kathyjo
Original Author
last year
Yes! Phew. Thank you. Especially considering we didn’t have any type of range hood for the past 9 years we lived here. Now that I’ve been reading up on all of this, I’ve learned how unhealthy that’s been. This will be a huge improvement, whatever it does!
kathyjo
Original Author
last year
We’re now looking at this in the marshmallow white or mint green. (Soffit built above)
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Unique-Appliances-Classic-Retro-24-in-500-CFM-Ducted-Under-Cabinet-Range-Hood-with-LED-Lighting-in-Robin-Egg-Blue-UGP-24CR-RH-RB/319120126
I want all three of you to know how much your advice is valued and appreciated.

Oven vent for tight space?

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