Can you post a 2d floor plan of your space along with how the kitchen fits in with the other rooms?

I had almost that same corner sink layout in my rental and it was horrible! I at least had a peninsula to the right of my stove to prep. You don't even have that

Where will you prep?

Where will you stand when the dishwasher is open?

Where will dishes, pots, pans, utensils go?

There is a better layout but we need to see it in 2d with measurements

Can you add exact measurements including window widths?

Are you planning on expanding the deck at this time?

Also are you on a slab, a crawl space or a basement?

Also give me window heights in dining room please.

I'm not one of the layout gurus, but from what I can tell, you kept the existing footprint and are just getting new to-the-ceiling cabinets (and lowers), right? I think you are right, there isn't a way to move the sink in front of the window. I'm not normally a fan of a sink in an island, but would that be a possibility?

Oops. Didn't realize I didn't comment on your actual questions. I don't think you have enough wall spaces for sconces (put I don't usually see them in kitchens). You can have 4 recessed cans in the ceiling. I see many people put one pendant light over the sink when it's in front of a window.

To answer your questions:

(1) Hood -- it looks fine. Some people like to put 3 inches or so b/w the cabinet and hood (sometimes called "paint space") while others install them flush.

One caution: Be careful of your light rail (the molding on the bottom of the upper cabinets). Since they are a "combustible" material, be sure the rail meets the specs and your local Code of being far enough above the range, especially since it appears to be gas. Check the specs. If it violates the specs or Code, it may not pass final inspection.

(2) Lighting -- stick with a combination of recessed lights and under-cabinet lights. You don't have room for sconces or pendants.

I know you didn't ask, but...the corner sink

First, size. It looks like you have a standard 36" corner sink base.

It's difficult to fit a nice size sink in a 36" corner sink base without either cutting into the cabinets on each side or installing it too far back (if it's too far back, over time it becomes an issue for your back when using it b/c you have to lean so far forward)

I have heard that an overmount sink is better in this situation (which you have right now), but I don't know if that's actually true. Maybe someone who does know will chime in.

Notice that Ninigret's sink base is wider so she is able to have a nice size sink.

I understand that you have one now, but do you want to spend all this money on a remodel only to have the same issues you've been living with (and forced to adapt to)? I would think you would want something better!

Next, I would either change that upper corner cabinet out to a pie-cut/90-degree cut easy reach upper -or- do what Ninigret did -- that one looks very nice!

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Are you open to other design suggestions, including making significant changes?

Since you're re-doing the deck and could widen it a bit, could you move the exterior door to the deck toward the Dining Room as well?

What are the dimensions of the Dining Room?

ETA: Another idea is to widen it so you can have a sliding door instead of an swing door. That frees up "floor space".

If at all possible please move the sink. I see you were saving by keeping the footprint but that’s penny wise and pound foolish.

My first idea...

This idea includes an island. Since I eliminated the 24" wide tall pantry cabinet, I added a 6-foot row of drawer bases (any configuration you want, 24/24/24, 36/36, 48/24, etc.) It gives you more accessible storage than the tall pantry cabs w/o losing space:

• The pantry cabinet is 24"W x 90"tall (actually, only 85.5" b/c of the normal 4.5" toe-kick)
• The drawer bases are 30" tall (4.5" toe-kick + 30" cabinet space = 30"). If you take the same width of 24" - that's 1/3 of the length of the island cabinets, so 30" x 3 = 90"
• To add even more storage space, look into "toe-kick" drawers. These are drawers built into the toe-kick and can be used for seldom-used items. One person on GW uses one of hers to store a folding step stool for accessing the tops of her cabinets.

The Prep Zone is in the island. You can prep on either side of the island, so there is quite a bit of available counterspace. The minimum recommended amount of counter space in a Prep Zone is 36" and you have that minimum in your Primary Prep Zone. Yes, more would be nice, but at least you have the minimum! If you need to spread out for a major project (e.g., cookie baking), you can use the other side of the island where you have over 6 feet of counterspace.

There is an optional 12" wide trash pullout. It will only fit one bin, but that's better than having to run around the kitchen if you have a standalone. There usually isn't enough room under a farm sink to fit more than a small trash can, so having a pullout is nice. Plus, 12" wide cabinets have a limited use.

I forgot to add a suggested use label on the 9" -- it could be for cutting boards (or these can go under the sink) or it could be used for tray storage (cookie sheets, cooling racks, etc.)

Why did I put those narrow cabinets in?

• When you have a DW on the end of a run w/o a cabinet, you have to install a sturdy end panel or wall to attach both the DW and the counter to. By putting in a a cabinet, the cabinet does the work and instead of a "dead" space, it's now useful. It's also giving you another 9" of workspace on that side of the sink.

• The 12" cabinet + counter overhang (1.5") gives you at least 13.5" of buffer b/w the end of the island and the sink. This greatly reduces splashing on the floor on the side as well as gives you an "emergency" space for putting things. You will probably put things on that side anyway out of habit, so it gives you a buffer for putting things down w/o dropping them on the floor. (Also, if you push something over w/o thinking, you have a fair chance that it will stay on the counter and not fall off to the floor!)

The Cooking Zone is protected from traffic b/c it's in the corner.

There is plenty of landing space & an acceptable amount of workspace around the range.

The cabinet to the right of the range is 24" wide so you have a "placeholder" for a future MW drawer (or alcove). While you may not use the MW now, you may in the future. Plus, if you ever sell, if someone is concerned about MW space, you can point it out.

Layout #1:

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Layout #1 Zone Map:

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One note: Normally, I am a big proponent of getting the DW out of the Prep Zone, but in this case b/c of the small Kitchen size and limited usable wall space, it cannot easily be done and still have a decent amount of counterspace in the Prep Zone and a good workflow.

In addition to posting the dimensions of the dining room, can you post a picture of your current dining table/chairs? Or draw them onto the floor plan? Same with the living room and its furniture?

I don't know what your budget is, but one thought is to switch the Kitchen and Dining Room, but you would have to replace what I'm sure are tall windows in the current DR with windows at least 36" off the finished floor.

Changing out the window will probably cost b/w $2k and 3k, depending on the labor costs in your area.

One thing we did not ask, do you have a basement or crawl space under your Kitchen and Dining Room? Or, is it a slab?

How far along are you? It actually sounds like you cannot make any substantive changes, and that's what's needed to fix the sink and lack of workspace where it's needed most (b/w the sink and range) issues.

If you cannot make any real changes, then I'm not sure if there's much we can do to help you. You will adapt to the issues, just as you did in your old Kitchen. Good Luck!

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[Maybe someone will have a brilliant idea for fixing one or two of those main issues w/o making significant changes....so I encourage you to stay with us in this thread for a while!]

So, if you haven't ordered cabinets yet, why can't you make major changes?

I was at the same point with my Kitchen when I found this site. I read several layout threads and realized that the layout I was ready to sign the cabinet order for was far from functional. I called my KD to talk to her and while she was not thrilled with the idea of re-doing the layout, when I told her my concerns, she actually agreed with me! She had drawn up the layout based on what I told her I wanted and it wasn't working. (If she had explained to me about aisle widths, seating overhangs, work zones, etc., I would have listened, but she kept quiet.)

You may find that your KD is a bit relieved too and won't really fight you on this.

However, if s/he does, keep this in mind...this is YOUR kitchen. You have to live with and work in it every single day; your KD and GC do not -- they'll walk away when done and never see it again or have to work in it. In addition, you are paying them, not the other away around

So, rather than do things to please them, do things to please YOU.

Excellent advice (as usual!) by buehl! Playing off of the suggestion to move the kitchen to the dining room - you could have something like this.....

I was thinking along similar lines as Buehl's galley lay-out or swapping kitchen with DR.

Another option is to go with the sink next to but not in the corner, like this:

The sink size stay about the same but this configuration gives you a 24" drawer base, which is always a better storage option over 2 15" base cabinets. Buying one cabinet, even though a little larger, should save you some money, too. Or you can apply that savings to upgrading to a drawer base.

I calculate your kitchen at 148 1/2" top to bottom. If you decide to add an island, stick with a shallow one, no more than 18" deep. That will give you 39 1/2" aisles between it and the sink run and between it and the fridge run. Keep in mind that the aisle will shrink from 39 1/2" to 36 1/2" between island and fridge door (not handles) assuming you're purchasing a counter depth fridge.

The downside of an island in your kitchen is that it will be somewhat of a barrier island (between fridge and sink) but that compromise might be worth it for the additional storage and counter space a longish, narrow island would offer.

It would be similar to these:

Crisp Architects · More Info

Traditional Kitchen · More Info

Toronto Cabbagetown Home · More Info

Portland Craftsman Kitchen · More Info

Victorian Kitchen · More Info

If you buy a standard depth fridge, you absolutely don't have room for an island; your aisle will shrink by several more inches, creating a serious pinch point in your kitchen, even without the fridge door being open.

These images illustrating NKBA's recommended minimums of aisles may be helpful:

NKBA - National Kitchen and Bath Association.

I would replace the dining room window with a sliding door and get rid of the door in the kitchen, to gain extra counter space for a well placed sink.

Here's what's possible if you follow chispa's advice.

FYI, a 27" d island is made up of 24" deep cabinets with 3" total counter overhang (1 1/2" on all sides).

The propsed layout is 1 of the worse layouts I have seen this month on Houzz. A corner sink, a too low cabinet above sink, combustible material near cooking heat...

Good grief, why on earth would anyone re-invest in the same non functional layout? The only difference is an exposed hood which is going to take away from the already limited storage.

If you can't afford to do it right the 1st time, it's ok to wait until later. Patience pays.

Just leave it alone or if you want a quick change, just slap some paint on what you got until you can get a much better functional kitchen.

The other posters give you great solutions, but it's too far to fix, but then the cabinets haven't been ordered yet? What?!

This situation makes no sense.

Absolutely no sense as is.

There's so much potential.

I hope you seriously take the advice others have suggested & come up with a much better plan than that.

I worked off your drawing's dimensions so moving the sink as I suggested should be doable. I replaced the 36" corner sink cab and the 15" base cab - 51" total - with a 24" sink base, 3" spacer and voided the 24" corner area. You need the 3" spacer on each side of the corner so that you can open cab doors and drawers without hitting the adjacent cabinet's hardware. A 24" sink base is on the small side but so is a 36" corner sink base so your sink size would be the same.

Are you handy at all? If so and you can put in some sweat equity, you could consider RTA (ready to assemble) cabinets to help your budget. Ikea is a good value but there's also Scherr's and Barker's, both American made and good quality. They cost a bit more than Ikea but they also offer more options, cab widths and finishes, than Ikea does.

Now it makes sense.

Why there's such a rush...

Moving into a home, so you never used the current kitchen layout, so you don't know how bad it is when you use it & why everyone is saying don't redo the same layout.

I would definitely fix the layout. Worth the investment. There's a lot of other better options others are posting that will make a great improvement.