If the stacked washer/dryer you have now is a single-piece unit with a shared control panel (as opposed to a separate dryer on top of a separate washer), and has electric drying (not gas), it probably has a single 240V (or 208V), 30 amp outlet it's plugged into. If it doesn't allow the washer and dryer to run at the same time, or if the dryer is connected to a gas line, you may have only 120V outlets there. If the former (which is more likely), you could repurpose the existing 240V/30A circuit breaker and run a new wire to the closet, or even extend the existing 240V wiring from the bathroom to the new closet if that's easier (it will need to have a separate ground wire, which older 240v wiring may not have though). Your electrician should know this stuff. The Bosch "Axxis" series laundry machines (the smaller 24" wide ones) as well as Asko's in the same size can be powered from a single 240V/30A outlet (known as 14-30R amongst electricians) that accepts a 4-prong plug. The dryer has a fused 240V/15A outlet on the back that accepts the 240V/15A washer plug. You plug the washer into the dryer, and the dryer into the wall outlet, thus powering both machines. Alternatively, you can have the electrician install a 240V/15A circuit and outlet for the washer to plug into directly, and a separate 240V/30A circuit for the dryer which would keep more options open for whenever the *new* washer and dryer eventually need to be replaced, but probably better/cheaper not to deal now with what hopefully won't matter for a long time. Some electricians don't seem to realize that some washing machines sold in the U.S. run on 240V power. The dryers that stack over these also actually need only 240V/15A power, not the more common 30A. That's because the washers spin faster than older American washers and extract more water, so the clothes are less damp when they're put in the dryer and thus need less electical power to dry them (about 2800 watts instead of 5500, a big savings), yet it dries about as fast since it has less work to do, and because they have a higher airflow rate and spin in both directions switching occasionally to help prevent clothes from tangling and clumping up. Nonetheless, they are designed to be used with 30 amp circuits and outlets because they are much more common; the dryers have a built-in 15A fuse.

On your first question dryer side vent. If you don't use the kit will it void your warranty? Also, you would want to make sure it doesn't create a fire hazard if you just use an elbow. On your second question. Is it up to code to run a dryer vent through the wall as described? If you do have a fire, you may run into issues with your homeowners insurance and the local authorities. As far as angles, again you have to go with the specs on the dryer. Too many and it won't work correctly and it becomes a fire hazard because it will become clogged with lint. Plus if you do have issue and it quits the manufacturer may not honor your warranty. On your second issue. You would need to go and actually look at the periscope. You could possibly use tin snips and clip each section down where they go together. You would have to factor in at least an inch overlap within the periscope. And you would want your cuts assembled so that the air passes smoothly over the joint. So basically all joints run in one direction. You don't want them collecting lint. So not much help, just be aware that sometimes saving a few dollars can end up costing much more in the long run. Keep your family safe and look at all potential fire hazards. Dryers are one of the leading causes of house fires.

The "Periscope" pipe or solution mentioned above is a quick fix, but they are surprisingly very very inefficient. At 7 minutes into the vid the fitting is tested (.50 wci of pressure delta). http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cFOHGVhmyQA name of vid: How to reduce your clothes drying time and save energy costs The Dryerbox option is more work, but if the retro fit box installation goes smoothly, the benefits are huge. Here are links to installation pictures and instructions: bottom of this page: http://www.dryerbox.com/photo_gallery.htm instructions: http://www.dryerbox.com/pages/retro/index-500.html Generally it takes about 30 minutes to complete.

We are on the cusp of placing orders for our appliances. So I wandered back by this thread and noticed the new responses. Mikelock, I love your "after" photo. We're about the finalize our layout, and I keep considering going under-counter instead of stacked. It's a lot of fun to see another real life installation. That extra run of counter must be so nice. Chris Park, thanks for your perspective on how the condensing dryer is performing for you. I was scared off initially by the many negative comments about condensing dryers, but I later became more hopeful when I noticed that many comments note that clothes come out with only an initial dampness - if that makes sense. We're finally going to place our order this week, after much heel dragging from me. The plan for a long time has been Blomberg units (the heat pump dryer sounds like a good idea), although in the 11th hour there is some temptation to order Asko units (condensing dryer) that would match the SS appliances. I guess we'll panic and select one soon!