Basically that is what I said...........including that that the roots will probably not be an issue of danger to the line. I certainly did the very same thing, but I'm rural and kept them away from any riser situation where excavation is far more likely. However, watching a water line come through closer to town, I saw an whole allee of mature trees die a horrible death when the utility companies trenched a line in the easement nearby, and severing half of each tree's major roots. The property owners had even hung a little sign on the trees for them to be careful. ;-) But with a narrow easement the contractors had little leeway to do any detouring, even if they were prone to and I doubt they were. It's your call to make and without a crystal ball, no way to really tell if that situation will ever happen. Personally I am an admirer of the big trees, so many people won't plant anymore.

The Cafe could work for your situation if the price were not pushing $2800, which is $800 over your max budget. Maybe there might be a lower price at a "ding and bing" outlets. IIRC, Sears has one in the Baltimore area. That Samsung FX710 is probably a skoonch too tall. The specs for it say that the top of its backsplash is 46 1/2" tall, which is 1/8" too high for your 46 3/8" shelf. So near and yet so far. Seems like you've tried every brand of slide-in except Frigidaire. Might want to check them out. Consumer Reports annual membership surveys show almost all brands of all gas stoves (including Frigidiare) having about the same range of reliability/problems in the first six years of ownership. (According to CR, the survey results of less than three points difference are not significant and pretty much everything reported runs in the 7 to 9% range.) If you went with Kitchenaid, it is unlikely that you would see a repeat of the issue with the coating melting off the grates. That's just a manufacturing defect in either applying or mixing the coating. But Kitchenaid/Whirlpool have had a spate of trouble with electronics failing. The latest is a recall of microwaves that sponaneously start-up with some of them catching fire. For ranges, they had several recent years where the oven self-cleaning function would sometimes cook the controller boards and sometimes would trip an "over-temp" circuit breaker that could be reset only by taking panels off the stove for access to it. Supposedly that has been fixed with cooling fans but we still see complaints about the problem here at GW.) The NXR would certainly fit under the shelf. The top of the oven vent/backguard on mine is only 40." That will give you plenty of space to the shelf, although that shelf could still get rather warm. Do you have a rangehood or OTR? The standard width for a stove-cutout is 30 1/8" although, in practice, that is a "more or less" thing. The width of the NXR may be a concern as it, like some other pro-style stoves, is a true 30" wide. (Mine is actually 29 15/16" FWIW). Best way to tell if it will fit: get a 2x4, square the ends, cut it to exactly 30", put a level on it and pass it through the cut-out. If it sticks on the countertop or cabinets at any point, you know an NXR will not fit. Speaking of counters, I gather you folks are tall since your counter surfaces at 36 7/8" above floor level, which is about an inch higher than standard. (Either that or you bought the house from tall people.) I mention this because the top of my NXR is only 36" above floor level. The NXR instructions do spec a minimum 2" gap between the stove and any combustible surface rising above the stove. If you have a tiled countertop, no problem. But if, like me, you have laminate or composite countertops, you'll need to either cover the exposed edge or raise the stove. The NXR's legs are adjustable feet, but I do not know if there is 7/8" of an inch of adjustment. If you are considering an NXR, you could call customer service at 1-877- 639-7624 and ask them how high the legs can go. (There are real live people there and I've found them helpful.) You might want to check on the the requirement for having a plumber do the gas connections for you. Some cities and some covenants are pretty strict about this, but many places allow homeowners to do hookups and only require a plumber when you are installing the gas line to the kitchen. Most of us NXR owners have been able to make the connections ourselves. If you can do the hook-up yourselves, it could save some money and keep an NXR within your budget. (IIRC, GW member susan/dirtyblloomers lives in Maryland near Baltimore and has posted here on installing and servicing her NXR by herself.) Also, check with your your local public utilitiy company. Some of them may offer hook-up services. If they do, it may be free and, if not, is usually much less expensive than a plumber. (Calling a highly trained plumber for such a minor task is like having a neurosurgeon for taking out tonsils.) On that Imperial stove, skip it and any other commercial stove. Commercial ranges do not have the kind of insulation that are fitted to all residential stoves including "pro-style" stoves. That means they get very hot in use. Not good for a home kitchen. Plus, you to install non-combustible surfaces (tiling the walls and cabinets or sheathing them in stainless steel) and the local codes may require make-up-air and a fire-supression system for your range hood. They may require larger diameter gas lines than residential ranges, too. Lots of extra cost there. AFAIK, most of the commercial ranges do not have in-oven broilers, either. Numbers of postings here have discussed using true commerical appliances in the home if you want to research the subject. This post was edited by JWVideo on Sat, Feb 16, 13 at 14:06

PB, I think I understand your concern, but I think you are misunderstanding the information supplied. I tried to find the specifications for your unit on the Ânet, but I canÂt. In any case, your unit is to be supplied by a ½" gas line at a minimum of 1" of water column pressure. The regulator will reduce that to the proper amount for the whole appliance. There are at least two ranges that fit your rangeÂs description, and neither lists the total maximum input rating. You may find that on the manufacturerÂs nameplate. You do have quite a powerhouse there. And I am unfamiliar with the unit and ranges, generally. But if the line size and pressure are specÂd.-out and you are within the capacities, your range will work to its design intents. I see that your question derives from, " the gas connector I picked up at the local Home Depot has a chart on the back showing a significant drop off in BTU/hr depending on whether a 3' or a 6' connector is used." This may be the creation of a misunderstanding. If your connector has an automatic gas safety valve between the flex and the ½" IP, the chart you reference is probably the one that tells you the limit of the appliance capacity for the length of flex used. For example, a connector intended to hook up to ½" IP and is itself ½" tubing, might supply a dryer or a range or a gas water heater  medium demand appliances. Because the safety valve is sensing that a massive gas leak may have occurred at the end of the connector, due to breakage or disconnection while the line stop is open, its sensitivity includes the actual length of line between it and the regulator. Laws and the gas code limit this kind of connection to 6 feet. So if you use a 6 foot connector, the safety valve will be tripped at some BTU/H rating different than one that has the regulator at 3 feet. However, while this is considered Âimportant, you may find that the chart limit is already far more generous than you need. Which translates: that if you are getting the normal flow to any of the burners, it will work for all of them. But, at some point, the whole demand of open gas valves will reach what appears to be the safety valveÂs sensing limit. Then and only then, do you need to consider a shorter flex line. (YouÂll know when the whole kabob falls off the stick.) The safety valve will still conduct a certain amount of gas (bypass) which might power one or more burners. This gas needs to flow so that when it accumulates at the shut-off burners, its back-pressure will reset the safety valve to full flow. Pinoke

Safe? Yes, as long as you are not using a regular plain slide-in kind of range. Note the 4" riser/vent at the back of Pirula's range. Any range that has at least a 4" high backsplash on it can go directly against the wall and will be fine from a code and safety standpoint. With your cooktop, it will be a little different. Some makers (such as Blue Star) require 6" of horizontal clearance for their units, but Miele is designed to require less. So, as long as you maintain the requisite 2.75" clearance for the Miele, there will not be a safety issue. Beyond that, I'm very much with akchicago on cleaning the thing. I speak from experience. A couple of decades ago, I had an old-house kitchen with beadboard backsplash. I'm a messy cook. I found it hard to maintain the beadboard without frequent touch-up on the paint. I never found a paint that was tough enough to hold up for any length of time. If you really like the look of the beadboard, I suppose you could consider overlaying it with a clear tempered glass panel. That would allow the beadboard pattern to show through and would be much easier to clean. (I've done something like this behind my stove in my current house, although my wall is just plain painted drywall, The tempered glass panel was inexpensive. The most expensive part was having holes drilled in the glass for the mounting screws.). This post was edited by JWVideo on Thu, Jan 22, 15 at 18:02