Layout puzzle: please poke holes in our condo reno plans!
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Tiny Kitchen Layout: Have I made it worse?
Comments (150)Hi, davidro1: Thank you so much for your posts. I've been mulling over your ideas, so here are some of my thoughts and questions. (But I completely understand if you want to move on; I certainly want to move forward!) * Posted by davidro1 (My Page) on Wed, Jan 12, 11 at 16:37 >>> I'll guess that you might want to have a layout that is just right so that the view onto the dirty sink is not permanently obvious from everywhere in the living room. Yes, absolutely. >>> My first instinct is to suggest a frosted panel ("window") at the bottom RH corner of the kitchen floorplan, instead of a half wall. Then, daylight comes into the kitchen (and a lot of it), while views are blocked. This is an intriguing idea. Are you envisioning full-height, suspended from ceiling? >>> 2ndly, I would not have a wall at the bottom LH corner, where the countertop ends. I would not even have a half wall. The full-wall to the left of the half-wall is (supposedly) not load-bearing. A GC I consulted wanted to knock that out. (But, we are not using a GC.) >>> A couple long horizontal mirrors bring light into the kitchen Where did you envision these are placed? >>> Actually, I think one floor-to-ceiling vertical mirror near the counter return piece will complete the trompe-l'oeil ("fooling your eye") effect and make the space appear twice as large while splashing daylight into your kitchen. Actually, the entire left wall of the dining area is floor to ceiling mirrors (the condo has 9-ft ceilings, except the kitchen which is 8-ft). I think this is a bit dated-looking (70's, 80's?), but it does make the space look bigger... the intention, I suppose. I never thought of it as a potential source of light for the kitchen. (It's a bit cave-like now.) BUT! Removing the half-wall, as you suggested, could make a difference. >>> I'll assume there is a good door closing off the bathroom. LOL, actually I realized after I posted, that there is NO way to get into the bathroom the way I drew it! Well you did say "hand-drawn with my left hand" was okay... you didn't say you had to have access to the bathroom. ;) >>> B.t.w. did you know that you could have a laundry chute from your dressing room closet into the laundry room? Funny you should mention this. My husband's idea is to close off the laundry from the kitchen side to have use of the full back wall, and make the entrance to laundry through the closet! But if you could see how small that closet is... we'd have almost no room to hang clothes. (And we are both jeans/t-shirt kind of people; no shoe hoarding here!) >>> Because of the space, when one of you is sleeping the other one probably has to keep quiet in the kitchen. Fortunately, our habits/routine make this a non-issue. (But if you have a solution for the stomps-like-an-elephant-when-arguing-with-her-husband, upstairs, please advise.) * Posted by davidro1 (My Page) on Thu, Jan 13, 11 at 22:46 >>>Two parallel counters very deep. Extend the long counter into the laundry corner. Very interesting idea. But now you are crossing into my "anxious zone" by having to remove the wall. Also it's just a closet, just big enough for a stacked washer/dryer and room to stand in front of it. The hookups are on the left wall. . Where did you envision the washer and dryer would go? BTW, the anxiety is more the process, than the demo. We live in a city where EVERYTHING needs a permit and inspection. Plus, the process of getting condo approval. I've already done this for the vent ducting... which now I don't need to relocate anymore! >>> Leave cooktop and vent on the same side they are now; That's the plan... at least for now. :) >>> move the fridge into the corner where the new frosted panel will go. I'm a little confused by your L/R description in the first post, but I think you mean in the lower left corner? >>> Straddle the cooktop over two cabinets. I hadn't thought of that. But if we do buy more expensive cabinets, wouldn't that void the (cabinet) warranty? I suppose it could be worth it, possibly. >>> Leave room for the oven. Leave room for the dishwasher. Don't buy them until you've got the other things done first. Agree. >>> $0200 Inline Blower under the ceiling: gives you more shelf space at eye level. Okay, ever since you put the bug in my ear with your post on Fri, Jan 7, 11 at 23:53, I have been reading up on this, including coming across several posts of yours on this topic. And you have sold me on this idea. I'm going to have DH replace the bathroom fan with one as well. So thanks for the that. Now if only I could justify one of those beautiful Modern-Aire hoods.... >>> $0200 frosted panel, false window, plexiglass, Lexan, Lucite, glass, or other material I love this idea of yours. What do you think of rice paper, as in a shoji screen (but not a shoji screen itself)? It's not kitchen-proof like plexiglass, but it is a little softer, more organic. Hmm. >>> $2000 cabinets, drawers, (+ stuff) It would be too boring to relate our cabinet journey, but we DID start out with the RTA route in mind, including Scherr's, and Conestoga. >>> $1000 Induction cooktop In your in-line blower thread you mentioned a "small induction cooktop". What did you end up with and how do you like it? I am on the fence about induction for two reasons: 1) the learning curve since I'm not a very good cook (DH is, though); 2) the "mystery sound" that has been related in several posts here. Apparently only certain people can hear it. I'm remembering someone's teenager has to leave the room and a salesperson who said he wouldn�t have induction in his home because it bugged him, too. (And I'm NOT talking about the fan noise, clicking OR pan noises.) I have EXTREMELY sensitive hearing, so I can imagine being bugged by this. Anywho, would love to know what your setup is and how you like it. >>> $0400 Numerar countertop (two of : 39" (cut down) by 73"L.) I really love how people have incorporated wood counters into their kitchens, so this is a great, cost-effective means to do it. One kitchen I saw comes to mind that used this countertop, but I completely forgot until you mentioned it. (I had to google the name.) Thanks for the suggestion. >>>Standardize all your cabinets so that the drawer fronts are either 24" or 30". Yes, this would look great... possibly it will work. Does this mean I get to keep the 24" dishwasher, though? ;) >>> Hth I appreciate your thoughtful, creative ideas. I'll keep thinking on them. If only I could move forward.... Thank you, again. :)...See MoreSmall Kitchen Layout - Stacked Condo
Comments (123)TeatimeAnn - So nice of you to remember my little condo kitchen. Thanks! No physical progress, but some of the HOA issues have been resolved... (Sigh) It has been quite a process. We have been working with the Home Owners Association board since February to determine the scope of our project. To make a very long, sad, story short... we will be able to accomplish a lot of our remodel, but we will not be able to add certain "common area" (read as inside the walls and ceiling) items. For example, no recessed lights, no gas line for a range, no exterior kitchen vent for the range etc. I am in California, so no recessed lighting might be a challenge to meet title 24 requirements. We are just now getting copies of all the required contractor documents for the HOA and will hopefully be able to start the demo soon. I've stopped holding my breath. Once the walls are open, then we get to reapply with the HOA and see what they approve for the remodel. Then it will be off to the city to see what they have to say. What a crazy, disappointing process....See MoreNeed Layout/Design Help with Small Condo Kitchen
Comments (14)Welcome to Kitchens! Do you need the peninsula? Is there a reason for it? Have you considered an "L" with the range on the "top" wall and the sink on the right wall (using the drawing w/dimensions to determine left/right, top/bottom)? Here are some ideas. I tired to keep the plumbing as close as possible to the original location. Oh, in all except Layout #3, the counter run along the right wall is 27" deep with 15" deep uppers. This gives you a bit more workspace on the counter and quite a bit more storage in the upper cabinets. You'd be surprised how much of a difference those 3" make in upper cabinets! The cabinet above the sink is farther off the surface and could be a dish rack for both utilitarian as well as aesthetic value. .. .. .. This one is probably my favorite... Plenty of prep space, plenty of room around the range, decent pantry space, and more open. I'm of two minds concerning the MW. It could be put in the corner as I show it, but it could also be a MW drawer in the 24" cabinet to the left of the range. In the corner, it gives you the full height of the 24" cabinet for storage. In the drawer, it opens up the counter completely and is more open. (That cabinet to the left of the range must be drawers. If it has doors, you'll need around an 1" of filler b/w the wall and cabinet so the cabinet might have to be narrower...assuming full-overlay or frameless cabinets.) Here it is with the primary zones marked (I put a MW drawer in this one so you could see it): Why a double-bowl, 36" wide sink? Because (1) it allows you to use one bowl for prepping and one for dirty dishes and (2) the larger bowl can be 21" wide...approx the same width you would get using a single-bowl, 24" wide sink base. Here is a link that might be useful: Read Me If You're New To GW Kitchens!...See MoreLayout help, please!
Comments (62)benjesbride, I really do appreciate the feedback and I posted here because I want to know what I might have to expect with the different options. I think I can live with the distance between sink and stove because draining pasta is the only thing I can think of being a problem, I don't find myself going between sink and stove a lot in the current kitchen. When i fill a pot for soup or cook pasta, I use water from the fridge dispenser because it's filtered, using a large measuring cup. So I don't fill a pot and lug it to the stove, normally. draining pasta, I use a slotted spoon for most types but if I need to drain pasta I will have a few steps to take. That said, with all the other layouts there are complete no-go flaws, or in the case of the U-shaped kitchen it would require a large flooring patch and I don't have enough of the floating floor left to fill a large area such as the whole section of cabinets. I called Lowes to see if they had any random packages in a warehouse but they don't have any. I really love the flooring and don't want to have a different floor in the kitchen especially if it's so open. So, I think I'll have to choose the plan that offers the lesser evils... and if the distance from sink to cooktop is the only biggie, I'll think about that whenever I cook over the next couple weeks - and talk to DH who cooks as often as I do. and decide if that's a no-go for us. I think it will be an OK trade off for actually having pantry cupboards. In any case the "dream" layout may not work for other reasons, and in that case the backup I think is something like the one below - where essentially the range and the fridge swap positions, we'd have to add a few inches to the wall by the entry where the range is now, to back the fridge properly... but to me the distance from the range to the sink is about the same, it's still going to be a few steps. This is also assuming the wall is structural and HVAC vent not moveable, so leaving a soffit framework in place and leaving the same footprint as our current kitchen. This one is OK, some improvement over our current layout but does not have any space for a pantry cupboard which is something I hate about our current kitchen - not much easily accessed storage for dry foods....See MoreBuehl
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