Hi Geoff, In regards to the foot valve and filtration, yes, I would suggest the use of a filter, why? Because small bits of algae, sand and other debris over time will build up in the valve diaphragm. The sprinkler heads can pass a small amount of debris fine (they have filters under the nozzles) it is the valves you should be most worried about. For your application, the use of a disc filter would be most appropriate. Disc filters use a series of screen discs that the water is forced through the amount of filtration is measured in mesh. The recommended mesh for a irrigation system is 100 mesh. Most disc filters need to be cleaned on a annual or bi-annual basis by unscrewing the filter top and hosing it off well. Disc filters are not as easy to come by as their cousin the screen filter. However a trip to a local irrigation supply house, like Ewing, should produce some nice results. Oh, a regular irrigation valve should NOT be used on a system running off lake water. You need a "Scrubber valve" which incorporates a very heavy duty diaphragm and stainless steel hardware (like molded stainless bonnet studs for easy service) The model is suggest using is the 100-PEB from Rain Bird. Once again, not going to find it at home cheapo, go to a irrigation supply house. About the sprinkler heads. I would suggest going with the same brand of sprinkler heads as long as they are not orbit or toro. Hunter makes a wonderful rotor as does Rain Bird. I will assume you have Hunter PGP rotors (they are very common) and they work great, some of the guys have complained they stop rotating as you mentioned, but it's luck of the draw. Because of the rotating issue, many have switched to the Rain Bird 5000. I haven't tried the 5000 but Rain Bird makes excellent products so it couldn't be half bad. Both the 5000 and PGP come with a nozzle tree and adjustment key. You can match the numbers on your old nozzle with the new when changing it out. And again, go to the irrigation supply house. Moneypenny: Any irrigation system running from a lake should incorporate disc filtration and scrubber valves. These will pay for them selves over time and will give you peace of mind. The pop-up rotors are personal taste but I like the PGP's just fine. With a filtration and care you will be good to go. Don't opt for the cheapest stuff out there, you get what you pay for and I can say this from experience. Cheap brands include: Orbit and Toro. Don't go to the big box stores like home depot, they won't carry the products you need, it's the professionals choice and why not support the local business? Links to products mentioned in this tutorial and other helpful links: Arkal-Amiad filtration: Mfrs. of manual disc filters. 322 Rolling Hill Road Mooresville, NC 28117-9920 http://www.arkal-filters.com/pro_manual1.html Rain Bird Corp: Mfrs. of high quality irrigation components. Rain Bird Corporation 1000 West Sierra Madre Ave. Azusa, CA 91702 http://www.rainbird.com/landscape/products/valves/PEB_PESBseries.htm Irrigation tutorials/help: Jess Stryker, professional irrigation system designer with 30+ years of experience. http://www.irrigationtutorials.com/ I do not endorse any of these manufacturers or people. I simply know good products.

I can only sympathize. There is no way to install blinds inside Andersen 400 series T/W windows. I am sick about it and would not have purchased them had I known. I have 4 installed now, with 12 more sitting in the garage waiting for installation. They were custom order, so no refunds... Andersen said " ...we do not sell windows to be compatible with third-party accessories..." It never occured to me to check to see if blinds would work inside the window - I thought all windows were made that way for years.

If I'm understanding you correctly, I assume your new windows were installed inside of the old window frames, what we call an insert window. Depending on what model window you purchased depends on the insert frames thickness. One of Pellas biggest downfalls in the vinyl Thermastar replacement windows is they don't have a complete system to their windows. The double & single hung come at the 3 1/4" frame thickness we're used to. The casement comes with fins you have to cut off and a 2-1/2" frame thickness with the slider coming with a built on "J Bead" and fins. Nothing consistent in any way. The protrusion of the window can go either way. It depends on where the installer wants it to go to. Sound's like the installer will move the stops in to accommodate your requests. Thats good!!

Thanks everyone! I really appreciate the feedback. Expectations do play a part and I'm getting a little more used to it, and hopefully lighting and backsplash will really help too. Alley, it is White Romano. There really is only that one orangey place - I've seen Colonial Cream with a little more of the orange. Errant, Bianco Romano for sure has less black/more garnet, but I was told that White Romano was a little different. I liked the Bianco one in photos and samples, but couldn't find any slabs that looked good these days. What's coming from the quarries (at least to MN) is different than from a few years ago, I guess. And I'll go with the 'it's still in process and will look better when it's finished!' Steph, yes, it's soooo easy for me to make it huge and also to compare to what I see as the results of others. I was not willing to reduce the process to being really quick, I did spend a lot of time (probably too much), but was still faced with the fact that I couldn't get it all perfect (despite the fact that some other kitchens seem to be closer to perfect than mine!), and the need to move forward and enjoy what's there and make it good from the new starting point. So I'm going to take that as a little life lesson - hopefully more valuable to me than a perfect kitchen. :-)