Oh no, I didn't realize how sulfur might affect my cats and dog. I thought it was nontoxic to mammals! I did more research, and saw this in the Merck Veterinary Manual: Sulfur and lime-sulfur are 2 of the oldest insecticides. Elemental sulfur is practically devoid of toxicity, although poisoning has occurred occasionally when large amounts were mixed in cattle feed. Specific toxic dosages are not known but probably exceed 4 g/kg. Lime-sulfur, which is a complex of sulfides, may cause irritation, discomfort, or blistering but rarely causes death. Treatment consists of removing residual material and applying bland protective ointments plus any supportive measures that may be indicated. What fungicide would be safer for my animals? Sulfur? Or tebuconazole (Bayer Advanced Disease Control)? Does tebuconazole also leave a heavy film that can rub off on the animals' fur and get ingested during grooming?

no on BB ... cold damage.. another leaf was covering it ... hence the pattern ... if i didnt want to look at it.. i would just snip it off ... i dont know on G ... could very well be ONE OF THE VIRUSES ... but not hvx ... the strips are not all inclusive ... well.. good if he was opining on things you did not buy from him ... he was providing knowledge ... kudos ... it would only be an excuse if he was defending that which he sold ... eh??? i know you are excited you found a local hosta buddy ... i just wanted to make sure... you are not missing anything ... when i go to buy things.. no matter what.. i have a bunch of questions.. i know the answers to ... and by asking them.. i find out who is BSing who ... i am glad you have us.. to double check ... now.. what do the rest of you say on the G??? ken

One option is XPS "blue board" available at local home centers. It has a similar R value to spray foam of the same thinness, with possible lower cost. it comes in a 2" thickness. Make sure you use a small foam kit to seall all of the edges. R value is great, but you also need to stop infiltration. This would go in easily if the garage ceiling is "clean" after taking down drywall. If you have things in the way, like pipes and wires, spray foam will be better. I have used the 2-part Zerodraft foam kit - it is great. I would take down the garage plywood ceiling and spray *one kits worth of foam* until it runs out. You need just and inch or so to air seal the floor. Then, reinstall the fiberglass batts for increased R value. And of course put in a drywall ceiling and tape it very well. In the USA, I get it from EFO.org, but you should have a more local supplier. Good luck! Here is a link that might be useful: Zerodraft Canada

love this forum that you can do a little diy advising! ok the mold in the supply boxes and on the grills probably isn't from the duct takeoffs @ the plenum. it takes a long time for mold to travel that far..and if there isn't moisture & food source it won't spread to that area. it isn't always mold..sometimes it is just dust. so mold/dust buildup at the ducts @ plenum is lack of proper air seal. mold in supply boxes & on grills is lack of proper air seal at the cut in the sheetrock ceiling where supply grill is attached to the box. nine times out of ten..you can solve the issue by sealing supply boxes to sheetrock. see attached picture. hardcast brand #1402 mastic tape is used to seal supply box to sheetrock. this tape is 3" wide. I split the 3" into 1 1/2" lengths. stick to sheetrock and fold into supply box. as the tape adheres to many surfaces you need to be careful to keep it within the area covered by the supply grill. once it sticks to the sheetrock..you'll lose paper if you try to move it. surfaces have to be clean & dry for tape to adhere. and once in place you'll want to press it in place as it is somewhat pressure sensitive. the tape is strong enough to keep the box tight to attic floor on the attic side when installing the supply grill. wash the dust off the grills, wipe inside the supply box & into the duct. reinstall the supply grill. oh and when you remove the supply grills..take a sharpie and mark what direction they faced (throw to window..dirveway side whatever note you need to put them back in same position) this way you'll put them back as they were. I've tried several other brands of mastic tape. hardcast 1402 is the best. the others are 2" width and mastic is thinner, resulting in less strength and useful life. why would I chose spray foam for my floors? I've sealed floors several ways, foam is the easiest albeit more costly, once prep work is done. there isn't enough room to physically install foam sheathing to the bottom of the floor joists. I'll seal any big holes..like under tub then do 3" foam. I've looked at froth packs like tiger foam..but having worked with so many foam companies locally, will just have them do my floor when they are in my area. the software is pricy. we lease it yearly. once upon a time we bought the cd..but too many people abused it. so now it is a download & upgrades to original install. a lot of mastic isn't always an indication of a good seal. it doesn't take a lot if you put it in the actual leaks. you can feel around the duct take offs on the plenum while unit is running and feel some of the leakage. also checking plenum connections to the equipment at the same time. I use mastic tape to connect plenums (after screwing them in place) much easier to seal under the plenum to equipment with tape than painting mastic upside down.