I just looked up online about cree lights flickering. I have lived in my current house (11,000 sq feet over3 floors) since 2014. The house is a very faithful colonial reproduction from 1980. My wife and I did a thorough redo of the electrics, mechanicals, Windows, new cedar roof and cedar siding (where needed), paint, bathrooms... We had the entire house rewired and had had about 150 recessed lights in the house (bedroom, kitchen, all bedrooms, all closets, sun room, pantry, halls, laundry room all basement rooms) Redone in Cree 2700k BR30 65 watt bulbs (from reputable electrician). I did this because our past house (3200 sq foot over 4 floor) had many rooms with similar recessed lights I converted to Cree led (the exact same) in 2012. The lights in the old house DID NOT flicker when lights were at full brightness, but the old dimmers were a problem. So I went to Lutron dimmers for CFL and LED. There were no more issues. Well, due to this experience, all lights in new house started up on these led comparable dimmers. I have to be honest - I am SUPER DISAPPOINTED with CREE. I have had at least 20-30 Cree flickering lights in my house. At first I thought it was the rooms, because certain rooms flickered all the time - but, those rooms had a ton of lights. I have replaced them with the LOWES equivalent and have not had an issue. My office (family owned) converted over as well and my parents did. And we all did Cree. We ALL had flicker issues. Some are so bad, they go off for a while! When we switched over to the Lowes brand (only on flickering lights), no more problem. The strange thing is that the Cree completely integrated low profile units (not screw in, but lower profile lights we needed in our pantry that look the same once installed, but are half the installed depth) have all been great. I am almost certain it's a quality control issue. People who have old incandescent "high watt" dimmers - realize you are replacing old bulbs with new ones that demand 1/6 or less the power. The old dimmers don't control the low load properly and you will get flicker if you dim lights. But if you have led ready dimmers or a solid switch, and lights flicker... It's the bulb. I've tried everything and it was the bulb. The Cree's are supposedly the best - but I have had a problem with at least 30. Replacing them fixed issue and other cree's in same circuit and switch have been fine for a couple years. If you have similar issues and a good dimmer - it is not you or your house. It is the light bulb. Return it. I think the Cree's made in the past had better quality control. I asked homeowners of my past house if they ever had to replace one (they are all from 2011/12 - all Cree) and they say they are great.

"We called DMF and they gave us an approved list of dimmers and oddly enough the Lutron dimmer listed is the one for incandescent bulbs, not CL. So we switched it and that helped a teeeeeeeeeny bit. Still not great. We should've gone with the Cree! " The power supply design to work with ANY type of dimming is more expensive to design and manufacture. It takes extra circuitry and parts to convert the width of the AC wave into a dimming control signal, while still tolerating the distorted voltage and current available from the dimmers The 'magnetic' dimmers use a different device to control the AC waveform, but the power supply (CFL, florescent ballasts, LV, LED) needs to be specially designed for one type of dimmer or the other.

The Lutron website has a list of lights that work well with their dimmers. You can also call Lutron up for help (as the final end user) Lights compatible with RadioRA2 The Cree CR and LR lights have the trim piece attached, so the parts are The housing The CR4 or CR6 The cost of a typical CR6 + housing is under $50. The CR4 + housing is about the same price range. There are other options - Feit, Halo, Sylvania, ... that could have a lower price point. The dimming performance, light spread, CRI, glare, ... for led lights will vary from vendor to vendor ( & between product ranges from the same vendor) unlike incandescent lights. Any line voltage wiring you put in will work for LED lighting since the total power draw is significantly less than that for either an incandescent or CFL. Most lighting circuits will use 14 gauge wire which will be more than sufficient. While it would be nice to have smaller aperture lights, physical constraints - height of the ceiling, serviceability and actual output (too bright/ glaring) could make a better case for a larger aperture. Having said that, taking a historical perspective ... Compared with costs ~ 5 - 6 years back, a good CFL down light could cost anywhere between $70 (non dimmable) - $150 (dimmable) while a LR6 down light would be about $120 (purchased with discounts). Once put in, the led lights will not be touched for at least 5 - 10 years unlike incandescents or CFLs. You could do the simple calculation I described in my earlier post to get a sense of things and perhaps speak with your designer to gain some comfort that the design you currently have would work.

Both lights and LED compatible dimmer were purchased within the last few months, so it's latest technology. There are only two on this dimmer and both flicker (by flicker I mean an intermittent dimming, not rapid blinking). One suggestion I saw was that, since they are wired in series, if the first one is having power fluctuations, it could impact the second one. My first idea is to swap positions and see if both still flicker. The problem is that this issue is really hard to reproduce. You need the lights on at full power for 2 or more hours. Because the lights are so bright, we don't usually have them at full power (and there is no flicker). The reason I suspect the Thermal Cut Off Device is that after 2+ hours on full power the lights do get pretty warm. Maybe this behavior is by design?