There are two completely separate possible problems. Problem #1 is a noisy LED (not, sound noise, but electrical noise that makes radio interference) that makes it more difficult for the radio signal from remote to base to work. Problem #2 is a capacitor on the board that wears out with age that affects the wireless capabilities. The LED bulb doesn't cause a bad capacitor or vice versa. These are cumulative issues, but unrelated in cause. So, it's slightly possible that a combination of these two issues could exist where the cumulative effects of both are enough to make it not work. But, one doesn't cause the other. Test #1 is to just temporarily remove any bulbs from the opener and see if that makes a difference in how the wireless remote works. If it does, then you probably just need a better bulb. If it doesn't, then the next most likely cause is the capacitor. For my opener, the bulbs made no difference. Mine was fixed by replacing the capacitor and is now working fine (at 25 years old).

I have a problem with my liftmaster 1/2 hp. My house was built in 2005 but im not sure what year the opener is, but my remotes do not work and my hard wire button doesnt work but is blinking. My sensors that detect objects in the way still blinks if i put my leg or something in the way but light bulb on the lifter itself doesnt work and it is a good bulb. and i plugged other objects like a fan or charger or something in that outlet on the ceiling that the lifter is plugged in at and it works. when i unplug the lifter the hard wire button light goes out and when i plug it back up it continues to blink still. What do i need to do?

The problem I have is my door wont open at all. Neither the remote nor the wall button will budge it. The wall unit and the overhead opener seem to be communicating, since the lightbulbs are flashing, and turn on and off when told to. The remotes seem to have no affect at all. I replaced the chain onto the sprocket assemby and was adjusting the up and down on the main unit, Unit does nothing now when I press button on wall, is it possible to have adjusted the up/down too much to make unit not operate?Anyone have any ideas why my door won't work at all? I would expect the motor to at least chug or something, but...nuthin! Just flashing lights when i press the wall buttons. Sears Model 139.53975SRT1. HELP!

I did my whole showroom in Hafele. Did the install myself. Simple to do. They are dimmable. You plug a dimmer controller into the driver. Simple. Warm White lower wattage for up lighting, warm white higher wattage for under cabinet. Drivers inside corner cabinet, hidden by basket. Warm white higher voltage also hidden behind face frame of corner cabinet to light it. The electrical outlet is underneath the right side of the corner cabinet, and the occupancy sensor switches are under the corner cabinet. They aren't pretty. But, they have to be visible to detect motion. [Traditional Wine Cellar[(https://www.houzz.com/photos/traditional-wine-cellar-ideas-phbr1-bp~t_755~s_2107) by Other Metro Kitchen & Bath Designers ProSource Memphis Cool White, except under glass cabinets, which is warm white. Controller/dimmer to left of sink, right where the electrical outlet is that powers the install. Driver on top of cabinets. Wires run through cabinet interior, hidden by face frame. Glass cabinet tape lights hidden behind face frame to light cabinet interior. The outlet and driver for this section is on top of the wall. [Transitional Kitchen[(https://www.houzz.com/photos/transitional-kitchen-ideas-phbr1-bp~t_709~s_2112) by Other Metro Kitchen & Bath Designers ProSource Memphis Warm White, dimmer controlled underneath cabinet to the left next to oven, where the power originates. Driver is in top glass cabinet, with control wire run through cabinets hidden behind face frame. [Transitional Kitchen[(https://www.houzz.com/photos/transitional-kitchen-ideas-phbr1-bp~t_709~s_2112) by Other Metro Kitchen & Bath Designers ProSource Memphis