I'm rather confused. If the opener (receiver) and the remote (transmitter) are the same manufacturer or are otherwise compatible, then they should only communicate if the dip switch positions match.

If you're saying that an opener operates from a remote with different dip switch settings then there's something wrong with one or the other or both.

Thanks for responding. I completely agree with you. It doesn't make sense. But I will say this, after setting all switches to the same dip settings, the main remote button opens one door and the middle remote button opens the other. So, I'm guessing it's about time to replace one or the other since the were installed when the home was built in 1988. So for now I'm getting along with what they're giving me.

Thanks for responding. I completely agree with you. It doesn't make sense. But I will say this, after setting all switches to the same dip settings, the main remote button opens one door and the middle remote button opens the other. So, I'm guessing it's about time to replace one or the other since the were installed when the home was built in 1988. So for now I'm getting along with what they're giving me.

I have a similar problem with my opener..It will work, however I have to hold the remote two inches from the unit. I have switched the batteries to no avail..

You have a bad logic board.

Is that something easy to replace?

It is easy enough to replace. It is the board where all the white wires go. It cost around 80 or $90.00 though.

Doorguyo6
I wonder if you could explain the logic behind the sender receiver safety ciruit and how, if they are wired in parallel to a 5 or 6 Volt AC source, the interrupted beam disables the down motion and how it works when the receiver "sees" the beam allowing the down motion.
Many thanks for your valuable insight.

I have a Craftsman 41A4315-7D opener that recently quit working after a nearby lightning strike, which also took out 2 TVs and a computer (probably the least of my worries, but why replace what can be fixed...). The LED on the receiver flashes 5 times. Neither of the remotes nor the wall mounted button will operate the door although the overhead light does come on. Any ideas?

i have the exact same situation with the lightning strike. 5 flashes yada yada. I just need to know if it's time to replace or repair. pleases help me. I too hate to replace what can be fixed. Thanx Chris

well it appears was the logic board. Must have fallen victim to power surge. I could get the board for $78...almost $90 after shipping. Cut my losses and purchased newer opener for $139. Saved the old one for parts. I know the worm-drive alone will save me $40 down the road. Good luck all. Chris

Help!

Chipmonks have disconnected one of the two leads to the receiving sensor. How can I remove the plastic connector without breaking it?
Also, do I need to solder the wires back, or does the
connector mechanically hold the wires in place?

Thanks,

Mike

Our Garage door opens fine with or wthout the remote

but then again , it will not close unless you hold

in the wall switch , if you just push either the

wall switch or remote it gose a short distence and

then the light flashes 10 times and stops.

So can any one help me out , oh their are no cencers on

either side of the garage door , this is a old modeal

the # is 139-53660srt1 . Thanks for looking.

There might not be sensors on each side of the door but there should be. Sometimes people don't install them properly and place them in the rafters. Check around. Anyway the problem you describe is a sensor problem. Nothing else will make the door reverse and the lights flash 10 times.

You have plethora of knowledge about Sears openers. Hopefully you also have an idea which will help me.

I have a Sears 1/2HP opener and it works fine from the wall button. My problem is with the remotes. I can get one to work - both up and down - but it will only work when the lights are off on the opener. (The remotes will not work while the door is in motion or the opener lights are on.)

The wired wall button works all the time. The wall button (3-button model) is set to allow the remotes.

Please help - Thanks!

Any idea as to why my opener is malfuctioning???

We have a Craftsman model# 139.53918D
The problem I am having is when the door is down it will open on its own a couple hours later. This model has a diagnostic read out at the control console, but reads nothing after our discovery of the door being open. I also have checked the LED at the main unit and no flashing there. I can't say when it opens wether or not the lights flash as I have never been in the garage when it opens. Every thing else seems fine. It just seems to open after a couple hours.

Any help is greatly appreciated!! ;)

The problem I have is my door wont open at all. Neither the remote nor the wall button will budge it. My receiving eye sensor stopped working a couple months ago, and I just replaced it today...it glows green again. Both sensors are aligned. I checked all wiring between the door opener unit on the wall and the overhead unit, it's all well attached, and I reprogrammed the remotes. The wall unit and the overhead opener seem to be communicating, since the lightbulbs are flashing, and turn on and off when told to. The remotes seem to have no affect at all. Between ordering a manual, and a sensor kit, I'm in about $60.00 now. ouch. Anyone have any ideas why my door won't work at all? I would expect the motor to at least chug or something, but...nuthin! Just flashing lights when i press the wall buttons. Sears Model 139.53975SRT1. HELP!

I have an OLD Sears/Craftsman opener with what looks like a newer (updated) receiver on it (the "update" is dated 1994, transmitter model #139.53779).

We had 2 transmitters (remotes) and one was stolen along with my pickup the other day. I would like to continue using the transmitter I have (that is, I don't want to pay for new ones, being as I'm in a rental), but I don't want Joe Criminal using the garage remote he undoubtedly found in my pickup.

SO, I followed what random instructions I could find online and (I think) I erased the code memory on the receiver (pressed and held the smart button on the bottom of the receiver until the light went out-- +/- 6 seconds) and then tried to make the receiver learn a new code from the transmitter...
First, (following one set of instructions I found) I pressed the smart button and released it, then began holding the desired transmitter button whilst the receiver "learned"...it didn't.
Second, (following another set of instructions) I tried pressing and holding the transmitter button, THEN pressing the smart button on the receiver and letting it "learn." Still didn't.

Any advice on how to make my allegedly smart receiver pay attention to the transmitter?

First thing is you will not be changing codes. The code is in the remote and the receiver learns to recognize this code when you program the thing. It's a catch 22 situation you are in because without both remotes you can't know if they were coded alike at the factory or not. To program what you have just press and hold the button on the remote while you press and immediately release the smart/learn button. This should get you back in business with what you have. The only sure way to foil the crook at this point is to purchase 2 new remotes and then throw the old one in the trash bin. Remove the battery first.

I have three Sears / Craftsman 139.53325SRT (1/3 HP) garage door openers for a 3-car garage in a house I bought 3 1/2 years ago. The home, and presumably the door openers, are about 12 years old.

At the beginning of this year, the middle opener began failing, and as of this point all three openers have failed. The failures were gradual. They began by requiring repeated clicks of the remote or wall switch. Eventually, the door openers would only hum briefly when the remote or switch was depressed, but would not otherwise open or close. The lights would go on.

Now, the middle door (the first to have problems), does not respond to the switch or remote (the wall switch still shows a green, unflickering light). The other two still hum.

I suspect the logic boards on all three have failed, although I find the timing uncanny - all three within 12 months!. Before I go out and buy 3 boards, I want to be sure that it is the boards that failed and not the starting capacitor for the motor.

Any suggestions?

I am so thankful for this thread. My management company hasn't responded to my garage door issue because of the holidays and I needed it fixed asap. The door would open with remote but would not close and I had to hold the inside button down to get it to close. After reading the beginning of the thread I checked the green sensor which was fine, so I looked at the yellow sensor and it was loose. I tightened it and fixed the issue.

I am having problems with my garage door opener too. When I hit the wall button, the motor just makes a noise but nothing happens and then a green light flashes 5 times, pauses, then does it again on the side of the motor unit. The sensors appear to be lined up and it is getting power. Im not sure what to do...I dont think it is something major though. Does anyone know whats wrong or even better have a way to fix it?

Sounds like the trolley may be jammed against the bolt in front of the motor housing. If so, remove that bolt and then run your opener until it closes. While the door is closed turn the 'up limit' control 2 or 3 turns in the opposite direction of the arrow printed on the cover. Be sure to replace the bolt afterwords.

Hi all, i have had a similar issue to all these. I have 2 openers the same (2 car garage). Here is the first issue i had. My side when i hit the switch on the wall the door closed then stopped and re-opened. I thought it was the switch, so i traced the wires. All seemed to be fine. I got on a ladder, and fully power cycled the unit. Then referred to the directions to erase the codes on the transmitter, and reprogram it. That worked for that one. Now....my girlfriends side id doing the same thing. Wehn she hits the switch for hers, her door starts to close a few inches, then just re-opens. Same for the remote on her end. When we hit the button on the transmitter to open or close, it does the same thing as the switch. I checked the sensors on the left and right of the door and they are solid green. Is there anyway to get this to work normal again? Being that the cold weather has hit us, it's a PITA to get this thing to close. Although it seems to work when i use the big button and the middle one on the remote in conjunction. Seems like a transmitter or code issue. Any suggestions?? Thanks a bunch! :)

I have a Craftsman model139.53918D and will not acept the learn codes for open and close, it pushes down till it it forces to go back up. The LED light was blinking 11 times, before i tried to set learn codes and force adjustment now it blinks 9 times, any clues??

There is no code for 11 or 9 blinks. The maximum is 6. If your door is hitting the floor and reversing to the open position you will need to adjust your 'down limit'. This is located on the side of the motor unit and you will need to turn the control in the opposite direction of the arrow printed on the cover. Some tweaking may be required to get it right.

I have experienced some form or another of this issues described above. However, I have a new one where regardless of using the remote or the wall unit, the motor hums but no movement of the chain at all. Pressing the button again pauses and starts the motor, I imagine going the opposite direction. Pressing the button one more time stops the motor. No physical movement at all has happened. This is a Craftsman 139.53674SRT2 model. Is it possible a motor shaft/gear is stripped, or is there some other possible explanation? thanks for any help!

It sounds like your drive gear has stripped. Take off the cover and look just in front of the motor. It is white nylon and usually you will find plastic filings inside the cover.

Wow...I couldn't imagine where I might be able to find help on my issue and then I came across this thread. I looked thru twice but didn't see this one from anyone.

My Sears 53914 1/2 HP works fine from the wired door switch. However none of my (3) remotes will work from in front of my garage (e.g. from my car in the driveway). I can bring any of the remotes into the house and they work fine from seemingly any reasonable distance. The dead zone seems to be approx 45 degrees left and right of dead center, even from a short distance.

Does anyone have any thoughts or ideas? The antenna wire is dangling straight down just as it always did with no obstructions. I changed all the batteries, etc. Unit operated 4 years without any problems.

My dads exterior pad does not seem to work. We have in the past changed the battery and pressed the button in the back to reset things but no luck. It is a Sears 53635SRT.. anyone know where parts for this are sold?

Four remotes, none of which will work unless I am within 1 foot of door. Opener is mounted in a steel Morton barn. I have a new car with a built in remote that works fine. I have put new batteries in all re motes with no change. This problem started with in last 6 months.

No Kids. Door does not open or close(see previous posting)

Just replaced gear and sprocket on a 10 yr. old Sears 1/2hp. All seemed to go well but when activated either thru remote or wall unit the door only opens approx. 12" then retracts. The sensors are glowing brightly (also replaced 1 yr ago)and do not flash when unit reverses. All connections look good and I have closely checked the wires to make sure they are good. Even before the chain was put back on the sprocket the opener only operated for a brief few seconds. The LED flashes 5 times intermittedly.I have adjusted both the up/ down force fully with no luck. Any idea what is causing the problem?? Thanks!

I have a Chamberlain hd900d belt drive operator. The logic board went bad and chamberlain gladly sent me a new one covered under warranty. I installed it and now when I try to program it it appears to be working backward. That is, the black button is supposed to adjust the up limit and the blue button should control the down limit. they work opposite of that. Also the safety sensors reverse the dooor when the are obstructed but they do it when the door is going up and the door reverses and comes down instead of the other way around. I have checked the plugs connected to the logic board three times and everything appears to be correct. Does anyone have an answer for me? Chamberlain tells me that the board may be defective and they are sending me another. What are the odds of the new board that they already sent me being wired backward? Am I doing something wrong?

Happened suddenly. Unit is prob 12 years old, Model # 139.53535SRT1.

Motor runs but chain drive sprocket doesn't turn.

Probably the worm gear or sprocket assembly.

Is this easy to repair/replace, or is it better to just call Sears to repair or replace it?

If you are handy you can replace that gear yourself. It comes in a kit with complete instructions. The part number is 41A2817 and is available at Sears or any door service company.

Builder JT
If the door is going up, and you break the light beam, nothing should happen, the door should continue upwards.
The photo eyes are not working or active as the door is going up. They only work when it is coming down.
If the door is going upwards, and you break the light beam, and find that the door not only stops, but also closes by itself, then you have the carriage assembly mounted wrong on the T-rail.
The spring mechanism, and the two ends of the belt, must be on the left side of the T-rail as you are standing under the motor unit, looking out the door towards the driveway.
The logic board thinks it is closing the door when in fact, it is actually opening it.
This would also explain why the up and down buttons are driving you nuts.
Probably nothing wrong with any of the logic boards, I thing you have it assembled wrong.

Two weeks ago I had a new Sears Craftsmen 1.5 HP garage door opener installed. The opener I had before lasted 9 nine years ans was a craftsmen as well. The old opener would no longer close using the remotes and would blink 10 times (had to override). I wasn't sure if it was the board or sensors which lighted correctly solid green and yellow (sender). I decided on getting a new opener with key-less entry, surge protection and new remotes. It worked for one day and I experienced the same issue as with the old one. I cannot close the door with the remotes. I have to use the override in the garage. I get 10 flashing lights. Yet the sensor is a solid green upon close inspection. There is a single flashing light on the motor itself. Would the fact that the installers used existing wiring that was initially installed fastened with metal staples be causing this issue. They are coming tomorrow under warranty to investigate. I intend to ask them to replace the wiring. Could it be anything else.
Frustrated in Windsor, Ontario

It is definitely a sensor problem. That is the only thing that will cause the main light to flash 10 times.

My 2 year old Sears garage opener is spastic. It sometimes stops in mid-stream (up or down), no flashing light so no obstruction, beams are good. Sometimes works ok. The unit clicks and flashes on and off sometimes even when nothing is going on. I'm thinking a board is bad inside. Any thoughts

Door does not close unless button is held down.
Checked allignment of sending and receiving unit and seems OK.
what is unique is that both sensors's LEDs are green and inturrupting the signal (covering the receiving units eye) does not make the LED turn off. (ie) The LEDs are always green, even if signal is interrupted.

I have a sears 139.53640SRT garage door opener, mfg date 08/95. My problem is that my remotes do not open or close the door when the opener lignts are on. Everything else works fine otherwise. Also, when the garage door is closed the receiver and sender lights are steady, but when tne beam is interupted, the green light on the opener blinks 3 times. Thank you so much in advanced.

Thank you to everyone going back, I guess, to 2005! I had greased my unit to death but as soon as it got cold, the door wouldn't come down. Others described the symptoms perfectly. I cleaned the two little units off and discovered there's a wingnut on the back. It took all of five minutes to clean and adjust and my door works again. Thanks!

I have a Craftsman Garage Door Opener Mod 139.53985DM During the day,the remote controls only work within 3 feet of antenna. However they seem to work somewhat ok at night. I have changed the batteries , re-programed both remotes and keypad, and replaced locic board. Did not fix problem

Any Idea's Thank You

Just a heads up. I was having trouble with my remotes not closing my garage door. After reading this forum I was at wits end, nothing worked. This all happened after taking down the opener to sheet rock the garage. When I put it back up I replaced the incandecent light bulbs with CFL's. Well these bulbs must mess with the signals from the remotes because after removing the one closest to the reciever everything worked fine.

Stumbled across this thread while sleuthing for other things! My situation was exactly that of the OP and thanks to all those of knowledge and willing to take the time to post THANK YOU!!! I adjusted my sensors with the wing nut and it took only seconds to get the light to glow solid. Very easy fix. Thank you again.

Hi all, newbie here. I have two Sears Craftsman belt-drive door openers. 139.53918D (newer - 315MHz) and slightly older (2004) 139.53919 (I assume it's a 315MHz) Both have battery back-up and both work fine. The remote LCD Wall panel on the newer model (918D) keeps losing it's time. I'll set it and it'll be good for a day or two and then it flashes 12:00 as if the power was lost, not the case. Back-up battery is fully charged too. One more thing, I had no problem programming my Chrysler homelink transmitters to use with both openers but I can't program the secondary buttons on each remote to work with each opener. Any thoughts? Thanks!

Similar problem, door would go up about 6 inches and stop. I swapped sensors, cleaned them, fiddled with the limit stop, re-powered off and on several times, lubed the screw drive, and did a physical check of the door - all to no avail. It worked on override for a time, then stopped responding to that. Then took the cover off of the unit and found that a brown marmorated stink bug had apparently shorted several circuits on the main circuit board. Put it back together and it is working fine.

The problem I have is my door wont open at all. Neither the remote nor the wall button will budge it. The wall unit and the overhead opener seem to be communicating, since the lightbulbs are flashing, and turn on and off when told to. The remotes seem to have no affect at all. I replaced the chain onto the sprocket assemby and was adjusting the up and down on the main unit, Unit does nothing now when I press button on wall, is it possible to have adjusted the up/down too much to make unit not operate?Anyone have any ideas why my door won't work at all? I would expect the motor to at least chug or something, but...nuthin! Just flashing lights when i press the wall buttons. Sears Model 139.53975SRT1. HELP!

Yes it's possible to lock the door down by overtravel and hitting stops.

Is the trolley butted tight to a stop?

Is the track bowed up like it's under a lot of pressure? Have you disconneted the trolley from the door and tried to operate the back and forth on the track with out any door on it?

How many times to the lights flash? That is tied to a code to identify the problem/fault condition.