MDE5806AZW Service Manual 8 MB

You can conceal that pipe with a bulkhead and maybe a shelf on top if you want or inside a cabinet as others mentioned. It is smooth rigid and it looks like you have all the fittings going the right way (so no lint gets caught in it). Make sure you tape all the joints well so all the moisture goes outside. Do not put decorative duct tape on it... the only tape should be aluminum tape. Remember the pipe gets hot, duct tape is not meant for that, wish we could rename it something other than duct tape. I call it duck tape. What you were worried about and cant conseal is flexible pipe (rigid or non-rigid, because of lint buildup and fire risk), and what you cant use is plastic flex (melts). Not sure why you cant have a washer/dryer in your condo. I guess there is a water damage risk and also a fire risk but isnt a condo your house...? Or do you expect him to use public washers and dryers like he is living in an apartment still. He probably just needs it inspected. Butterfly4u is right about cautioning an electricity risk, that outlet is GFCI and will be fine for the washer BUT the dryer outlet cannot be anywhere near that sink because it is 30A non-GFCI that requires a metal double pole box. So imagine a living room with a ton of items powered on being supplied by a 15A breaker, then double that and that is what the dryer uses. Another question is where is the washer draining to? I would assume the sink. Put a lint catcher on the end of the drain tube and empty it frequently so the sink doesnt get clogged and overflow causing water damage to you and other tenants. I wouldnt recommend venting inside in a 500sqft home. You would still need to run a duct so the dryer isnt blowing into the wall behind it and its going to get hot and moist real quick unless you get one of those condensing dryers. In conclusion: 1. Fire risk = looks ok and yes you can conceal it 2. Electric risk = Need dryer outlet farther behind the dryer away from the sink 3. Water Damage risk = Assuming sink drainage, put a lint catcher on the end of the drain tube and empty it frequently so the sink doesnt get clogged and overflow causing water damage to you and other tenants.

Since you removed the old closet doors, it appears you're willing to have the new cabinet doors extend somewhat into the hallway. How about this: Instead of building a cabinet 24"-wide to house only the appliances, built a two-part cabinet. A 24"-wide section would be for the appliances and a 12"-wide section would include shelves or cubbies for detergent, rags, and other cleaning stuff. The 12" section would sit over the vent pipe which you wouldn't remove. The cabinet could have two doors: a 24"-wide door over the appliance section and a 12"-wide door over the detergent section. Hidden hinges would make the cabinet doors as sleek as possible.

That's some improvement and you had a short run to outdoors to start with. Probably will see a bit more with 'normal' mixed loads. Looks much cleaner & will be lots easier to clean. I replaced about 4' of semi-rigid flex with solid, changed the louvered vent outside with a ball seal (Lambro Vent Seal) and got the vent actually connected to the outside vent opening. DH had installed it originally; the tubing was not even connected to the tailpiece of the exhaust on the outside of the house! And no tape. Was a bit of a nightmare getting it connected because it exists thru the rim joist. So I had to work back in the recess over the foundation with floor joists over my head. Got it connected & taped up now. The space was so limited that I had to use 4-6" long pieces of tape to seal the joint. Combination of about everything that could be wrong was wrong. The periscope gained me about 2" of floor space, too. Which was huge given how tiny the laundry area is. Looks much more tidy and the reward was a big reduction in dry times.