MDE5806AZW Service Manual 8 MB

In the search for an answer to my problems with Bosch dryer, I stumbled upon your problem. Although you said you cleaned the whole system multiple times, I have to ask if you cleaned the compartment underneath the condenser unit? First thing, unplug the dryer. When you pull out the condenser, at the bottom of the tunnel is a hatch door. Underneath that lid is a compartment for water. In case you don’t see it, just push your hand down the tunnel and you will be able to feel it. It can get really messy and green in that compartment underneath that lid. The water pump is located on the left side of the tunnel. Steam goes through the condenser, and water gets in that hidden compartment and the pump pushes the water through the pipe, up in the condensate container. In my Bosch model, these are the parts that get in touch with water. Maybe your smell problem is there. If you are going to clean that part I’ll advise you to take the left panel of the machine off. It is much easier to work like that. Also at the back of the machine, when you take the smaller lid down (the one with a lot of screws, shaped like a foot) you will uncover the motor fan. Underneath the fan, in the plastic that surrounds the fan is a hole. Check that hole because green algae end up in there also. Clean the metal lid because it can get wet and full of lint. Maybe you already have done all of this, in that case maybe this will help someone else.

Who cares what the builder thinks. This is a TERRIBLE Install and a very poor choice of venting location. It would violate code here. Any roof vent of hot emissions (furnace, dryer, etc.) that is through a roof must be at least four feet above the roof line AND four feet away from any portion of the roof that is the same height or higher. A proper vent cap should be used such as this: Or this: What is on there now looks like a standard roof vent. That is designed for passive venting of the attic space, not a forced air exhaust like a dryer. The problem now is that they cut the vent pipe very short so a proper vent cap may not fit. A dryer vent should have no screen (they catch lint). It should have a self closing flap or hinged door that opens when the dryer blower comes on. When the dryer shuts off it should fully close to keep critters, insects and the elements (rain, etc) out of the vent pipe. You will also also need to crawl up on the roof at least once or twice per year and check for clogged lint. You will also need to look in the attic several times per year to make sure the vent pipe has not come loose. If they wont fix it I would find a Building inspector and ask if that is code. I highly doubt it. Where is the dryer located? If it is in a closet or a small room then it may not have enough makeup air for what it is tying to push out the vent. If it is in a closet, leave the door open. If it is in a small room leave the door open or open a window in the room if it has one. If this prices the drying time then you need to supply more makeup air to the location where the dryer is installed. You would do better with a condenser or heat pump dryer that is ventless than that setup. Here is a Charleston home inspector who discusses this very topic: http://www.summerville-home-inspector.com/content/charleston-home-inspector-discusses-dryer-vents

My vent is approximately 3' long with two 90º turns, and lint that gathers at the outside louvers must be removed regularly or my dryer becomes inefficient. My dryer immediately works better after the lint gets cleaned out, and it is amazing how much lint gathers in a year's time. From what I have heard and read, long dryer vent runs don't work as well as the technical manuals say they should. Rigid metal duct is more efficient than flexible duct. Furthermore, turns decrease efficiency. Four 90º turns cut air flow by about half at the exterior vent. Sorry, I think you need to finish cleaning, then consider the type of duct you have and the observable turns already in place before deciding to add two more turns. I find this SITE very helpful in understanding how building systems work.