Thank you asolo and fordtech. I got all excited. DH and I opened the window and he stuck his hand down the vent and extracted a golf ball size lint ball. Wasn't magic. There is plently of (cold) air going through the vent when the dryer is on. Then we tried fordtech's plan. Alas, there is no option "system check". There is a choice: "Before you call for help". I already did that today and the choices for an electric dryer are to check the circuits (I did) and check the vent (see above). Any other hints from anyone are welcome. Via internet sign-up, Sears can come for 65.00 in another 12 days. A city-wide outfit I clicked on-line can come tomorrow (if I can have them) for 89.00. Money isn't the issue for that difference but I am wondering about the skill level of all these people. Everyone seems to service everything so how deep could their knowledge be. (On the other hand Time-Warner fixed the Turner Movie Channel today that has been broken ever since I can remember, even pre-renovation. Turns out a little tiny part of the wire in the splitter had not been stripped. Doesn't sound right to me since pre-and post-renovation would have had to be the same problem. But channel works now so I can't complain.) Thanks.

If the thermal fuses keeps blowing, there must be a heat /vent / air-flow problem. The Blower Wheel may be slipping on the Shaft Check and clean the whole length of the vent. Check the amount of air out the vent on the outside of the house and check the air-flow at the back of the dryer with the vent disconnected. How long is your vent ? NO PVC NO screws NO plastic Rigid Metal Vent Flexible vent not reccomended If the thermal fuse blew, that means that the High-Limit Thermostat probably shorted and isn't doing it's job anymore because of the over-use of it - The vent temperatures are too high. The High-Limit Thermostat is supposed to cycle first (when there's an over-temp), and when it can't anymore because of over-use, the Thermal Fuse blows. There is a possiblity that the Heating Element is partialy shorted to ground causing part of it to remain energized when it should be OFF. The Thermal Fuses... did you buy the dryer new ? Was it ever repaired ? The previous owner may have had the same problem (at least twice) and installed the correct Fuse, and when that eventually blew, installed the Gas Thermal Fuse.

Hi Miami Beach The washer is 120V. The different model numbers seem to just be newer versions - but the specs on the latest versions seem indentical. We are happy with the washer. It does NOT have an internal water heater - so you will have to be sure that the water reaching the washer is hot. I'm thinking of adding a simple instant water heater, about $200 like the kind commonly used under a kitchen sink - to make sure that washer always draws hot water when it wants to. Right now - I tend to just run a nearby tap prior to wanting a hot water fill. The washing machine seems to wash quite a bit better than our old top loader did. It's not the quiestest washing machine - but it is hardly a bothersome noise either. The sounds are less "boomy" i.e. less "bass" than what a top loader would produce - likely due to less volume of water or mass. Apparently the Maytag branded version has automatic temperature control on some water temp settings - which means is basically runs water down the drain for you - until it gets hot - then fills with water. Personally, I prefer my idea to install an adjacent, simple, easy, electric instant water heater. They maytag version was recalled and ultimately discontinued in Canada, as for some reason, Maytag's version had problems with potential fires from the motor - did not control itself as well. As a fix - Maytag simply sent people GFI outlets?? This according the web - and a good service tech. Speaking of service tech - my complaint about the pair would be about the dryer - not the washing machine. The dryer is slower - but I expect this of a compact dryer. It also has a very tiny heating element. The plus - it never gets too hot, so less damage possible to your clothes. My real complaint about the dryer is that the sensor simply does not work right. I set it to "damp dry" - the least dry setting, and the dryer still completely dries out the clothes - and keeps drying for about 20 minutes after the clothes are already completely dry. I have had the first dryer completely replaced, the second dryer a sensor replaced all under warranty - but they continue to act the same. Serivce tech who was over told me they use inferior sensors in the asian machines - more of a temperature sensor than a proper humidty sensor. Now with a reno going on - they dryer is in an unheated room - temperatures around 44 to 55 Farenheit - so perhaps when it is back at normal room temp it will be okay. Since we got the pair for such a ridiculously good deal - we have decided to live with it if need to - and probably switch to a manual timed dry to prevent over drying. Samsung customer service in Canada has been very good - they have been quite willing to address the problem - a cuple times - even though so far - no success. We'll have to wait and see when the room temperatures are back to normal. Our prior bottom of the line GE full size dryer, was able to accurately dry clothes, even in these lower room temperatures. As to the size of the machine - we can pack as much or more than we could is our extra large old Kenmore top loader - so no concerns there. The king size front load machines are quite unnecessary. They have only become so popular because customers IMO in North America, can't seem to grasp the concept that a front loader really does have a lot more room inside than what LOOKS like a comparable sized top loader. Good luck!

I asked how it was vented because that can effect drying time plus best way to clean. And if you have a bird guard over the vent outside, it can clog and you can remove it and clean it. Also add one or two old dry towels to your wet load. Helps them to dry faster. A blower( leaf) is the best way to clean out the vent pipe.