You're missing a few things off your list. 1. Blum drill jig (about 200 plus dollars. Accurately drills all three holes in seconds) 2. A tape measure (there's enough up and down adjustment in those hinges to calculate and install the base plate without holding up the door using #3. 3. Small Blum drilling template for position of base plate screws. 4. Beer is to be consumed after job is complete and you are admiring your work.

This isn't the door swinging too wide. Opening the door at all rubs against the door adjacent on the hinge side. I'm afraid in opening the doors all the time, I'll rub away the finish. (Not to mention, it's really unpleasant trying to open what feels like a slightly stuck door!) The carpenter tried hard today to adjust the hinges. Some of it's better, and some worse... now the cabinet adjacent to the fridge panel opens fine, but the one next to that actually *catches* on it (lifts it open slightly). So by fixing the first door, he messed up the second. He says there are problems with the doors on the cabinets that are attached to a not-quite-flat plaster wall that took a lot of shimming... there are about four adjacent doors there with problems. But the doors mentioned above are on the sink side, where the cabinets are attached to drywall. Is it possible there's something wrong with the doors??? Were they manufactured with the wrong tolerances? If he can't fix them, what are my alternatives??? I'm afraid they'll rub away the finish!

You can change the hinges to Blum

Look at RocYork or Soss concealed hinges. That's what is usually used for a concealed hinge door. It is a lot more work than a typical butt hinge and they are quite expensive hinges for a solid core door.