jade plant trunk
Pros- any idea why this jade plant trunk seems to be shrinking in areas? Pls see first 3 pics. Also it feels kind of softer than the usual jade trunk. The 4th pic shows another plant but the trunk is hard to the touch and seems plumped.
Comments (20)
cactusmcharris, interior BC Z4/5
4 months agoken_adrian Adrian MI cold Z5
4 months agoRelated Discussions
Jade trunk growth and pruning
Comments (11)Hey, Plantme, good morning! I see you got the code down! Re: Light- It can't be getting enough light if it looks as it does. The downward and/or droopy growth is characteristic of plants that don't receive enough light. The pot is not too small... However, I *prefer* to grow large Jades in larger containers. Of course, the potting mix must be gritty and fast-draining if a larger container (and, thus, greater soil-volume) is used. You can prune the Jade's branches to any length. The bands are nodes; the spaces betwixt are internodes. Cut in the middle of the internode - the cut piece will shrivel, dry up, and fall off naturally as the callus forms at the node beneath. New growth, generally a pair of branches, will emerge from each cut-point. Josh...See MoreHelp with ailing Jade Plant
Comments (12)How long it takes for leaves to grow depends mostly on the size and health of the root system, which is where a good amount of the initial energy for pushing a new flush of growth will come from. If the root system was large & healthy at repot time, you should see evidence of new top growth within a few weeks or less. I think the large wound in the first pictures isn't a big concern to the plant's survival. You could probably cut a healthy plant into 2 plants from top to bottom and have both halves survive. I've seen that done as a novelty to Adenium and several tree species. I think the larger concern is probably the fungal infection that precipitated the necessity of having to carve out the rot. I think it might be a good idea to treat the plant with a systemic fungicide at the earliest opportunity. Bayer Advanced Disease Control for Roses, widely available over the counter, has Tebuconazole in it, which fits the systemic fungicide bill. I've used it for a number of fungal problems that already had a foothold, and it acted very well as a fixative. I also use it prophylactically on several species of bonsai prone to needle cast (hard to cure). Tebuconazole is also available in Bayer Advanced 3-in-1 Insect/Disease/Mite Control, which has the systemic fungicide, a systemic insecticide (imidicloprid), and a miticide. Be sure you don't confuse this product with the 3-in-1 product that has fertilizer if you use it - they're very different. Al...See MoreJade trunk separation/ withering cuttings
Comments (13)Thank you all for the prompt responses. First of all, yes, I'm new to succulents. I've had no interest in growing anything that couldn't survive outside all year in my native climate until recently. I've specifically become enamored with crassulas (largely because it was a mature jade given to me that kick-started the obsession). In the last two months, I've poured over these forums on a daily basis, done quite a bit of research elsewhere, and it's gotten to the point where almost everything I read I've already learned, digested, taken notes on, etc. I understand I can't gain experience on the internet, but I'm going to milk what it can offer me for all it's worth. Why do I want to separate the trunks? Because I work with bonsai, and I want to train these as "large" bonsai. I agree that aesthetically it looks great now, but I won't like the way this plant will look in the future if I leave both trunks there. I know that much. I would also prefer the plant puts all its growth into the one trunk as soon as possible. The bigger they get, and the closer their bases grow together, the harder this is going to be down the line. I didn't think this would be a big deal. And if it is, fine. I'll just whack one trunk off above the soil line and try to root it. I'm not offended (really), but not sure why this would be considered overly ambitious. To clear up confusion on my #2 point: I was concerned that if I were to cut these in half (beneath the soil line) that I would run the risk of the plants rotting after I planted them and eventually resumed watering them. They BOTH would have roots already attached, but BOTH would need to heal the separation cut before being watered. While it's claimed that I haven't learned that "your new plant can stand to be bare root for a while, does it no harm at all. As long as it's not in direct sun & is kept DRY, it can be out of mix for a while", I actually have learned this. I've read that and learned that, but it's always phrased similarly. This stuff is all relative. What's a "while"? With other plants, that could refer to a few hours. The plant has been uprooted and dry for a 8 days now. Specifics can be rare when you start looking for them. That's where my confusion comes from. I was never concerned about a week, but two? three? If I were to cut them in half, I would have to leave them unwatered for even longer. What's my limit? As for my plucked leaf theory... the more leaves that were plucked, the softer and wrinklier the branch. (And that's no stretch, it's plain as day). It's the only variable that was changed. I'm just not sure why seeming "anxious" or "ambitious" prevents me from learning how to properly execute a procedure on a notoriously "easy" plant to work with. I've worked successfully with much trickier plants for many years. I can plant the jade as it is, care for it perfectly for years and years, but I'm not going to learn a thing about separating trunks beneath the soil until I ask about it, learn about it, and do it. Right? I'll be right back here asking the same thing, which can be soiled down to: "how risky is this?" If it's obvious I don't "get" some things, please point me in the right direction to acquire that knowledge. After months of reading, I think I get the "basics" (and am tired of reading them, as I'm sure you're all tired of posting them). I just have some specific questions, because I AM ambitious, and eager, and curious. That's why I'm reading the manuals, so to speak, before doing anything I'll later regret. I'm sure everyone can understand that. Oh yeah. As for the cuttings not holding water? They are not potted up. I was advised to let them callus over for at least a week before doing that. It's funny, actually, because they are "standing up DRY in an empty clay pot in the shade". Or were, rather. I moved them inside earlier today, since the trunks have lost 20% of their size in that environment. Thank you, again, for all the responses. I hope my tone isn't too defensive, just trying to clear some things up. I really appreciate the responses. Gray...See MoreJade fused trunk
Comments (9)Well, Andy, the pic is sideways. Also, I can't tell how much surface area has been fused. This plant is actually not a Jade at all...not even in the same family or order of plants. This plant is Portulacaria afra, the "Elephant's [Food] Bush," Spekboom, from South Africa. As such, the woody trunk is much tougher than a Jade's, and I do think you could carefully cut - with a sharp implement - the two trunks apart with minimal damage or scarring. Or....you could grow the trunks this way as a novelty. Your choice. Josh...See Moreken_adrian Adrian MI cold Z5
4 months agoL Evve
4 months agoKen, no it’s not. This one has been potted for close to four months.
Cactusmcharris, thanks. I took it out of the put to inspect. After 4 months I was expecting to see some roots. To my surprise there was nothing. See pics. This might be the reason…
L Evve
4 months agoL Evve
4 months agoThese are the other tree… which look very well! Leaves and truck are hard and healthy
Tiffany, purpleinopp Z8b Opp, AL
4 months ago
socks
4 months agorina_Ontario,Canada 5a
4 months agolast modified: 4 months agoL Evve
4 months agoRina… it wasn’t hard, kind of soft actually. All trunk was like that… threw it away… will focus on the others!
Thanks Tina! It always works and it’s very easy to install tight and doesn’t harm the plants… I also use the water lines insulation foam as shown in this photo.
rina_Ontario,Canada 5a
4 months agoSoft usually indicates rot. It may have rotted because it didn't have roots & was watered...I usually don't water until roots start growing, indicated by the new growth. NO ROOTS - NO WATER... Using foam has nothing to do with it, I have used it or other 'stuff' often when trying to secure the plant.
Tiffany, purpleinopp Z8b Opp, AL
3 months agorina_Ontario,Canada 5a
3 months agoTiffany, purpleinopp Z8b Opp, AL
3 months agoTiffany, purpleinopp Z8b Opp, AL
3 months agoL Evve
3 months agofloral_uk z.8/9 SW UK
3 months agoTiffany, purpleinopp Z8b Opp, AL
3 months ago
tapla (mid-Michigan, USDA z5b-6a)
3 months agoNew growth cannot be considered confirmation that a cutting has produced roots. Growers should choose well-hydrated (recently watered) cuttings from near the top of (apically dominant) plants, and from the side closest to the primary light source. For those of us living in the Northern Hemisphere, the south side plants in the landscape would be considered to be facing the primary light source. Branches/ potential cuttings in these positions will have a greater level of stored photosynthate (food); and for that reason are more likely to root. A very high % of propagules need only water, oxygen, and stored food/ nutrients to create the energy essential to produce primary growth (extension) of branches and leaves, and this can occur whether the cutting has grown roots or not.
For internodal cuttings (cuttings from which the apex/ growing tip of the branch has been removed),
new growth in the leaf axil is not enough to confirm rooting, but appearance of a second leaf (on any given new branch) is. For tip cuttings, which include the apex/ growing tip of the branch, the addition of a new leaf due to extension of the cutting is not proof of rooting, but appearance of a second leaf is.
Always avoid tugging on a cutting to 'see if it has rooted. This can break tiny roots, a setback that slows establishment of the new propagule in its pot.
Al
tapla (mid-Michigan, USDA z5b-6a)