Is the membrane you now have sloped? Or is it flat on the floor with "sloped concrete" on top of it? That point aside...if you are intending a true built-in bench that is closed underneath (like the one in Bill's post on Apr 16, 08 at 19:46), then I prefer the waterproofing come down the walls, be lapped over the bench, across the top and down the face of the bench, and then tied into the pan membrane. But that's me. Since your membrane is already in, have you considered a removable teak bench? It can be in the shower when you need it, out when you don't want it, and anywhere within the shower that you want. If you can;t find anything commercially made and you have a metal shop nearby, they could construct you the frame for a full-width bench, just like a Better Bench. It can be retrofitted into and hung off the existing walls just like a Better Bench. But it can be whatever size you choose. I've gone that route a couple of times.

We were initally told 5-6 weeks from start to completion. Knew from reading here to double it. Old house from the 1870s, last kitchen put in/expanded 1968. My husband did at least 75% of the demo himself (ended up good for our timeline that he did); while doing this, took a peek into the dropped ceiling and saw no real reason for the drop. Luckily, we decided at the last minute to have the GC rip down this part of the ceiling on Day 1 to see if it could be raised...good news was yes, but the bad news was that whoever expanded the kitchen 40 years ago neglected to support the ceiling over the addition, and the second floor had sagged almost 2" (this is where my oldest son sleeps). So this was something major, not in the budget (though we did have padding for extras) or timeline, that needed to be fixed. Our floor was uneven (we knew this) but they could only even it so much without jacking up the house, which would cause more damage to the walls and floors throughout the house, so we didn't do that. The still uneven floors led to the tile job that was estimated to take 2 days taking 4, and also led to our cabinet maker needing to completely rework/remake the bottoms of our base cabinets for installation on this wonky floor. We also picked floor tile 3 times in about a one week time span--the first two times we were informed it was either out of stock or no longer made; this led to a mad dash and 1 day decision on completely different new tile. Oh, and our copper backsplash has twice been destroyed by a delivery company, and is now being remade for the third time (and delivered by a different company!). I have changed my cabinet delivery date from 9/20, to 9/23, to 9/30. My appliances moved from September 23rd to the 29th; my templating date switched from 9/23 to 9/29 and is now scheduled for 10/7, with install on 10/14. Hopefully these are the dates that will stick, but who knows? I just counted--if these dates DO stick, then I will actually be in a finished kitchen in 6-7 calendar weeks--so not too bad after all! But there is still alot to do--they are just finishing putting up drywall today, then there is taping and sanding and putting up trim and painting and the like; my newly exposed brick chimney still needs to be cleaned and sealed; my new windows need to be installed and trimmed; moving the phone jack and instaling a little bit of plugmold; lights have to be hung; new trim around two doors; the cabinet install is expected to take at least 3 days if not more because of all the shimming/trimming to be done; appliances must be installed, etc. I still think, based on other's experiences, that you should take what the contractor tells you and double it; you'll only end up happy and impressed if they finish within that time frame. And definitely make sure your budget contains overrun/unexpected padding, you are sure to need it. Sorry so long, but just wanted to show it's a lot of little things piling up that can end up causing bigger delays. Good luck!

This usually indicates the Hinge to glass connection is slipping via dead/shearload.. The hinges should have a gasket between them and the glass, the holes in the glass are pre drilled slightly larger to allow for fine tuning and may simply need adjustment, sometimes it takes a few weeks of the door hanging to slip downward and a re adjustment is needed. If thats not the case a few other major concerns and preplanning. The glass hinge to wall connection requires Solid lumber blocking that is also attached to a solid top/bottom plate properly In addition I usually replace the middle screw of each hinge with a 2.5-3" long screw much like we do when hanging heavy interior/ext doors as a backup into this solid blocking to carry the load.. 3/8" thick glass doors are much to heavy to rely on anchors and tile wall assembly. -best

When I ordered the complete new sweep, I also ordered a replacement rib insert, just in case. I took off the existing sweep today, uncrimped the ends, took out the old insert, and replaced it with the new one, trimmed to size. I didn't re-crimp the ends because it's in there pretty snugly and I don't want to have to uncrimp again. Existing sweep is back in place and I didn't have to add five more screw holes at the bottom of my door. It's a bit snug at the threshold right now, but I think it will compress a bit. It's possible my original insert shredded so quickly because it passed over a little cotton rug I usually put just inside the door. That isn't going to work anymore. No more daylight under the door. Quick fix: $5-ish, no new holes in entry door, so easy a baby could do it.