Thanks for the feedback. I talked to the people at Artistcraft and they thought it would be feasible to do a fixed panel on the left side with a 6" high transom that was hinged to the top of the frame. The door would be hinged on the right wall and seal against the fixed panel and transom. Talked to the local shop and they said they would not do this because of safety liability reasons, even though they were quoting me on a framed enclosure that would have a steam tight seal. Is this really a good idea? I asked them if there wouldn't be a bigger safety issue with an airtight room. That's when they got snotty. I was hoping to use them since I live in mid-Michigan and would like to steer business locally. In the end, I think we'll do something similar to what annkathryn suggests. I'm not that thrilled dealing with the rude people at the shop, but they seem to be the only game in town. Beautiful work as usual, Bill. Here is a kind of crappy photo of our project. Thanks again, mrs517

Thank you. I seem to recall the installers mention something about this being a common issue and they literally travel hours to a client site for the cost of a service call and all it is, is an adjustment they make with a small Allen key (ish) tool. I haven't figured it out myself though. If I don't find any help here, I guess we'll be calling the installers back.

From the CRL site (your hinges may not be the Geneva but the adjustments are all the same): The CRL Adjustable Geneva Series has taken our popular Geneva Hinge to a new level. Adjustment to accommodate the desired angle (up to 90 degree) is done after the door is installed. Once the door is hung, simply loosen the Allen set screws and turn the door to the desired closed position. By merely tightening the Allen screws your door will self-center to the desired closing position. The door can swing 90 degree inward and 90 degree outward (adjusting angle from factory set position will reduce 90 degree swing in that direction). For doors pulling outwards only (using a clear door jamb), you can adjust the hinge to close 5 degree inside the shower area, thus having the door close snugly against the jamb.

Rusugiru, if you don't like the shower door (not a 'good replacement') at the link, then you don't like it. I only searched for it & posted the link because you said: there are no good replacements for our space that don't cost a ridiculous amount of money because of needing to be custom made. And because this all started out with how to replace the old bulb seal and not how to update the shower door. I suspect that because you have one of those molded one-piece shower stalls, your options for door replacement are going to be limited. Limited to framed shower doors. The frame is largely self supporting and distributes the weight & stress evenly over the somewhat fragile stall material. vs high point stress load in frameless type installations. Explained with diagrams here: https://bascoshowerdoor.com/shower-doors-101/acrylic-and-fiberglass-guide