Oh ci_lantro...so many things, all the bad things. I am not exaggerating when I say we had to reframe the fireplace 4 times to get where we are. That was all just trying to make sure the house didn't burn down. Nope...cement board with mudding. the fourth rebuild was because they put a flammable drywall in direct contact with the face of the wood burning insert. We had to get the manufacturer, inspector, and company doing the fireplace install to make sure the contractor got this corrected...they collected money for permits never acquired, hired unlicensed help and had them install the electrical and mechanical work in the house, and Oh, he doesn't even have a contractors license. Apparently the bank accepted someone else's license number and never checked the contractors information. The gentleman whose license was provided to the bank, has never worked on our home. I learned Thursday, the wood flooring was installed incorrectly and will need to be completely replaced (cupping, shifting, quarter inch gaps). We also learned he did the gas lines wrong and they can't handle the associated BTUs. Permits and licensure matter. He also didn't pay his subs and they are coming after us...even though he has been paid funds towards these subs and never passed the money on. So I am focusing on the fireplace as we try to settle all the horrible, very bad things. Katinparadise...where do I look for a plasterer...how will this be different from the mudding?

@User - You wrote: "First of all, you make the assumption there was "a problem" in the first place. Look, if someone presents me with a room with finish framed, bare studded walls and ceiling joists ready to receive drywall (no matter what odd angles and slopes may have been built into them), we would go straight to drywall on the assumption that those angled and sloped surfaces were framed that way intentionally and are there for a reason." As most know houses with flat roofs typically are not really flat, there is usually a small slope. Does that slope typically telegraph through to the inside of the home? The answer, of course, is NO. I have owned, and remodeled, dozens of units with slightly pitched roofs and not a single one of them has ever had the pitch telegraph inside. I don't care what your assumption is or what you would do... all we need to establish is the "norm" for houses with slight roof pitches. Regardless of how reasonable your assumption may seem, once you, an experienced contractor, steps outside of what is the normal ceiling for houses with low roof pitches the onus is on you. Furthermore, a reasonable person should know this isn't going to look correct once there are horizontal elements in the room (e.g. shelves). --- Contractors owe a duty of due care to homeowners. Among other things this means you have a responsibility to protect clients from their own ignorance. If you are ever hired for a job and realize that the final result will be atypical, you have a responsibility to inquire if that is known and desired. In this case, a simple, "you know your ceiling is going to be sloped, right?" is all that was required. As we are starting to move from, "is this on me?" to who is legally obligated, a disclaimer. I am discussing general legal duties rather than adjudicating this "case." I am obviously assuming that there are no material omissions by the OP, because I am not trying to conduct a factual investigation, I am trying to give the OP a reasonable basis to negotiate a better deal.

What a great topic!! Our house is over 30 years old. A few years ago we had our kitchen and 3 bathrooms renovated, and a new oak staircase installed. We then planned to paint. Prior to painting the entire inside of our home, my husband and I repaired all the cracks and nail pops on the walls. We had lots of cracks around our newly installed oak staircase and around the entraces to several rooms. It took us weeks to do the repairs. My husband’s hobby is autobody repair and rebuilding autos. We gouged out all the cracks and he repaired them with autobody products: mainly Bondo, then lots of sanding, then Kilz 2 primer. We gouged out all the nail pops, put drywall screws in, then spackled, sanded, then applied primer. I washed and rinsed all the walls and ceilings prior to painting. We were both “obsessive/ compulsive” people when it came to repairing our wall cracks and nail pops. There is no professional who would ever have taken the time and effort to do what we did. It was a “labor of love”! It has been several years since our huge repair, and it still looks great!! Best of luck on your journey!

Where does the doorway that's closest to it lead? Is it frequently used? Can't tell if there would be enough room for one of these (altho a 3 panel might work best). If it doesn't block the door on the right, it could just be sitting on the floor. But if there is not much room to pass through that door, you could attach one side with hinges to the sidewall and then maybe just a hook and eye on the other side to hold it in place, but it would easily swing open to access the closet behind. Before someone comes along and says it will block the air vents, it won't. It wouldn't be installed tight up against them and air flows like water....anyone trying to weatherproof their homes can testify to how easy it is for air to flow. Lots of choices. These are all from Wayfair. You could also look at peel and stick murals that would cover the whole thing. The vents would be a little labor intensive or look for a pattern that could disguise them. Or paint them a color/s to blend in. I just googled peel and stick murals for closet doors.