Furniture refinishing experts - help please
Good Morning - hoping for some help please. I purchased a table from an interior decorator years back. I was told that the table had a wax finish and to clean it with a damp cloth. Through the years it has taken a bit of abuse - i.e. - a teenager wrapped gifts on it - ran the sharp scissors across it to cut the paper. UGGHHH. Finish has other typical wear - but has a lot of hazzy spots - added a few spots yesterday that are very noticable at a family dinner. The 6 roundish white shapes- the light fixure reflection.
I would like to strip off the wax and apply a new finish. I am not sure what to use to take off wax finish, as the inlay/pattern looks like it was painted on before the final wax finish.
Any help/advice would be greatly apprecited. Thank you in advance.
Comments (8)
pdmd
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Strip and refinish help please
Comments (1)I'm no expert, but I'll take a crack: Is there a piece small enough you could drag it to a paint store? (not HD or Lowe's, but a Sherwin Williams or Licht.) They can ID the finish and prescribe a method. Otherwise just a light sand usually gives enough "tooth" for a primer. You shouldn't have to strip because the paint will cover any color left. You could test on an inside rail. If the finish is structurally failing though, you might have to strip - because that finish, and everything you lay on top of it, could just keep on coming off. Good luck -k...See MoreRefinishing bedroom furniture
Comments (5)Ditch the polyshades. It's a product that's marketed as easy to use but in reality, it's making matters more difficult. I'd recommend a conventional stain followed by topcoat. I'm not fond of gel stains since they're much slower to use. If time isn't a factor, they do have the benefit of minimizing the tendency of some woods to take the stain unevenly (pine, cherry and poplar tend to blotch). Oil-based products like Polyshades and conventional polyurethane will eventually cure and stop smelling. If you don't want to wait for that to happen, then switch to water-based finish. I don't use water-base myself but a lot of people like the products sold by General Finishes. Personally, I use Varathane's diamond floor finish if I want water-base. If you want something more like oil-base but without the VOC's and fumes, check out Le Tonkinois. It looks and acts much like polyurethane but is a completely different sort of finish. Le Tonkinois If you've got a Sherwin Williams store nearby I'd recommend checking out their line of stains. They're a little easier to use than Minwax products....See MoreHelp me understand hardwood floor refinishing options please!
Comments (25)As stated above, mixing manufacturers can be tricky. DuraSeal works well with water based finishes because DuraSeal MAKES water based finishes. Minwax does not. Minwax produces oil based finishes that are illegal in 11 states. Bona is MUCH more expensive than either DuraSeal and most definitely more than Minwax. I am extremely pleased to see a professional reach for Bona stain for Bona Finish. That tells me all I need to know. @Design2 girl - If you are getting used to the colour (as it is) then feel free to see if a small discount can be given for leaving it in place. If you feel this is not the colour you want to live with, then you will need to have it sanded off and start fresh. A double application of stain is a NO-NO in the flooring industry. The second coat can and will PREVENT bonding of the finish to the wood! That means you run the risk of the floor pealing like a sun burn! Yep. In a few days to a few months the whole thing could slough off like snake skin. Not pretty. Personally I like the colour as it is right now. This mid-tone cool brown (not much yellow/orange) is very desirable. I would put down some satin finish over top and enjoy a very handsome floor....See MoreFurniture Paint Experts! Please advise Best Paint
Comments (23)@tatts You are right that blocking (blocking is undesirable adhesion between two painted services or a painted service and something else like say weatherstripping) is an issue for 100% acrylic latex paints. But as Beth pointed out, waterborne alkyds like Advance and FPE Eco are a different animal and don't have blocking issues. That's one thing that makes them perfect for trim and casegoods. They offer the performance of a traditional a alkyd paint. Many DIYers don't like to use them because: - the minimum time between coats is a 12 and 16 hours - for best results, you should sand between coats - it can take about 30 days to achieve maximum hardness People just don't have the patience. They can also be a little finicky depending upon temperature and humidity to self level. With experience you're able to gauge the viscosity (resistance to flow, or in layman's terms, how thick it is) and thin with water accordingly by doing a test brush out....See Moreklem1
last yearpdmd
last yearklem1
last year
lynartist
last yearThe design is painted on. Are you sure it is a wax finish? If so you can reapply a wax finish. You can lightly sand your table with a fine 180/220 sanding block and then carefully tack off any dust. Don’t oversand though, you won’t eliminate all of the scratches but you don’t want sand off the hand painted design work. You can then apply the wax with a soft cloth; let it dry overnight and then buff to a shine with a clean soft cloth. The wax gives a much nicer, softer look IMO than polyurethane. Wax is solvent based btw.
pdmd
last year
klem1