Buying and selling logistics - when and in what order?
biondanonima (Zone 7a Hudson Valley)
last year
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What R U Buying? What is Selling?????
Comments (16)leveta ... small world, uh? I've been collecting about 15 yrs. ...my DH & I bought some of his Mom's Jewel Tea dishes at the estate auction...and I've been collecting ever since! It is fun to look for something specific and even lots more fun when you find a great piece! Thanks for sharing...wished I lived closer! smicker...sounds intriguing to have a glass studio...but I remember seeing how those wonderful stepping stones you made with your sons...just awesome! I look for things like you do...great fun to Garden Junk! toomuchglass...sometimes you find a "steal" at antique booths...and use it outside anyway! I've done that with those "wood pulleys" ... then hung 2 small corriaged buckets from the pulley in my gardens...needed watered daily tho. So, keep lookin'...there's something out there you can put outside or "break!" Hope this helps, golden! Jeanne S....See MoreWhere to buy carpeting and logistics of moving furniture?
Comments (6)If you are at all physically able to, tear up your carpeting yourself. It is easy and will save you money that can be put toward a better quality carpet, as much as $2/sf. You need some comfortable utility knives (Stanley's FatMax line has a soft rubber grip that's a dream to use) with a LOT of heavy-duty blades, comfy work gloves, a roll of heavy twine, a few big trash bags, pliers, an old flat-end screwdriver, and a hammer. If you can get a Shop-Vac somewhere so much the better, otherwise a broom and dustpan AND your regular vacuum. Eye protection is a must and I also strongly recommend dustmasks, the kind with one-way exhalation valves so you don't get a sweaty, glasses-fogging mess under the mask. (They're about $7 each and well worth it.) Assuming you don't have beautiful hardwood underneath that carpeting, use a pair of pliers to yank the carpet off the tack strips along one wall, then every 3 feet cut a line with the utility knife to form a strip going all the way to the other side of the room. Roll it up tightly, tie it with twine, and set it aside. Continue with the next strip until you're all done. If you do have hardwood under there, have one person peel back the carpet and another do all the cutting from the back in midair so as not to risk the blade damaging the floor even further. We found 3 feet to be the most manageable size to deal with for lifting and carrying. Now you're down to padding, which is usually stuck to the floor with 237 million staples. So, just rip the padding up in hunks as best you can (thus the gloves) and throw it in the trash bag. (The padding under our carpet was basically shredded and there was so much sand underneath that we used a shovel!) Use the pliers to pull out the staples you can grab onto, use the screwdriver to pry up staples far enough to grab onto them. If you really cannot get a staple up, use the hammer to pound it into the subfloor until it is flat. If you can get your hands (or behind LOL) on a skateboard from a neighborhood kid or Freecycle, it is SO convenient to sit on to scoot around the room to get all those dang staples. Otherwise, scoot around on your bum on a piece of cardboard. Use the claw end of the hammer to pry up the tack strips and wrap those in one hunk of carpet to discard them in a trash bag. If you have a ShopVac, vacuum the floor; if you don't, sweep thoroughly with a broom before vacuuming the newly bare floor with a regular vacuum. If you are really unlucky, the padding was glued down to the floor rather than tacked. You'll need to scrape it off with wide-bladed putty knives/scrapers - you can get ones that are threaded for a broomstick to be screwed on so you can do this standing up - and dust masks are no longer optional. We drafted a friend to help and we were done taking out about 600sf of carpet between lunch and supper. While DH cut the carpet up into strips, our friend rolled and tied, and I followed behind (scooting on my bum LOL) pulling off padding and staples. If you have had pets in the past that had accidents in those rooms, you'll want to seal the subfloors in those areas with an odor-blocking primer like Kilz Odorless (which isn't by a longshot, open the windows because it is like taking the top of your head off and stirring your brains with a spoon). Flooring installers often rip you off big time to move furniture and more importantly are rarely careful doing so, so minimize the amount of furniture moving they must do. They'll also hit you up if they have to make extra trips - unless the rooms are very large or weirdly laid-out thus requiring complex cutting or piecing, they should be able to do two bedrooms and a hallway in one day. It's shocking how fast they can move when they want to get a job done! Try to get the installation scheduled for a Monday that you can take off from work, and try to call in whatever karma points/favors you may have accumulated to get as much help as you can. Since you say the kids are almost grown, if they're still living at home they ought to be helping if they are physically able. The week before the carpet is to be installed, box up all the books and small items, the clothes and stuff from the closets, etc. and put them in the living room, dining room, wherever you can stash it, along with any small furniture like nightstands, small tables, etc. Yes, your house will look like a disaster, just remember it's temporary. :-) Disassemble beds and any other furniture that can be taken apart and remove as much as you can. Early Saturday morning, move one room's remaining furniture into another room (furniture sliders and furniture lifting straps are miraculous inventions - can't tell you how many times we have used and lent out that "shoulder dolly" I linked, well worth the quite-small price), strip the carpet from that room, and do your ceiling paint. When buying the paint, consider the recoat time - some paints can be recoated in as little as 2 hours. Sunday morning, move both rooms' furniture into the newly carpet-less room and strip out the carpeting in the second room, then paint. Fit the hallway carpet removal in wherever there is time. :-) Monday morning the carpet installers can begin with that empty room and they will blow through the job quickly if there are no obstructions. Move all the furniture into the newly carpeted room so the second room and hallway can be carpeted, then return the second bedroom's furniture to its place, leaving it in the middle of the room. THEN do the touch-ups on the walls in both rooms and hallway - our flooring installers put all kinds of dings and nicks and grubby spots on our walls! When the touch-ups dry, then you can start reassembling the rooms. The kids may have to camp out on the floor in another room for a few days, or stay at friends' houses, but they will survive it. :-) I can't really help you on where to buy the carpet, since I used carpet tile I purchased online! I do know that the installers at the big box stores are subcontracted and can range from excellent to nightmarishly bad; personally I'd be inclined to go with a flooring-only store that had their own full-time installation crew, as I did when I had hardwoods installed at my last house....See MoreWhen buying, when is 'rent w/ option to buy' a good idea?
Comments (7)When moving to a new area, one should rent first. I've moved many times. I don't see too many cons as long as both parties agree on a price NOW & you would have to pay similar rent money if you were renting another, anyway. If the value goes down further, you have the option to buy at the agreed price or walk...or maybe the seller would re-negotiate if he wants to sell badly. It's more advantages to the renter than the seller. The seller has to honor the selling price & the money toward the purchase from renting. You're both gambling that YOU will want to live there & HE will get his money at TODAYs market value. The seller hopes to have the house sold, whether the market is good or bad. YOU can save a good down payment through paying rent & have a set in stone price OR walk if you don't like things. You'd only be out rental money which you would be if you plan on renting anything. The option/rent would give you a chance to get your bearings around town & see if that's the neighborhood you really want. If not, you haven't lost anything because you would have paying that money for another rental. I don't see rent/options as a bad credit thing. I see it more like taking a chance that your rental money going towards the possible purchase will turn out to be a purchase for less (rental money going toward purchase)while your checking out the house & the neighborhood. let's say the rental is $1500/month. That's $18,000 in downpayment. That house will cost you 18k less. Although, you hope the market holds & does not take another nosedive. If comps a year later will go for 50k less than your rental, it would be wise for you to re-negotiate (which the seller hopes NOT)the purchase price or WALK. The Deed for rent/option can be recorded in the Town Hall in some states. Be real careful with the verbage in the paperwork so you lose nothing & can walk, just in case ;) Need an atty for that....See MoreWhat considerations when ordering sink, faucet, lights?
Comments (11)I am doing an off-white shaker style cabinet (KM Huntington in Bisque) with soapstone countertops (not sure yet, but probably Julia). I should have been more clear with my request - I should have said *mechanical* considerations. I'm pretty set with my choices for style, going for that sort-of farmhouse feel - ORB finish on cab hardware, faucet, accessories - probably on the lighting too. I'm going to have a black counter depth french door refrigerator (probably the GE Profile, but haven't ordered that yet). So, one of my questions, for example, is the faucet - some are 1 hole, 3 hole, etc. What is that about and should I care? With the sink - I think I am going with an acrylic undermount, but I could go overmount - I've read some of the threads, and I guess it's just a matter of preference and that undermount is the style right now. If I did go overmount, what about the holes? Does the number have to match my faucet? The pendant lights are going over a peninsula - 3 way angle, so not linear, but I'd say it's about 5'? I'll have a pendant over each section, I have standard 7.5' ceilings - do I need to consider anything special about how they will hang? What about bulbs? Do they usually need special bulbs, or will any regular icandescent or flourescent do as long as they are in the correct wattage. I just don't want to order all this stuff and then have GC say that there is some problem or issue with it that now I have to scramble to get something new that will work in order to get the job done, IYKWIM. Fridge: http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?jspStoreDir=hdus&catalogId=10053&productId=100665704&navFlow=3&keyword=pfcf1nfybb&langId=-1&searchRedirect=pfcf1nfybb&storeId=10051&endecaDataBean=com.homedepot.sa.el.wc.catalog.beans.EndecaDataBean%4036d82bc5&ddkey=Search Sink (maybe): http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?action=productDetail&productId=193388-73020-32092&lpage=none Faucet (maybe): http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?action=productDetail&productId=80530-330-5314TMY&detail=cr&lpage=none Interestingly, it's the Price Pfitzer, but only because it's the only one the features that I like. I also like this one: http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?action=productDetail&productId=274207-72981-P99596-OB&lpage=none Hardware (probably - waiting for a sample): http://www.restorationhardware.com/rh/catalog/product/product.jsp?productId=prod1278090&navCount=1 Pendants, the most expensive one: http://www.lightinguniverse.com/products/view.aspx?sku=1565969 I also saw something a lot like it at Lowes today for $19 - I cannot find it on-line, but it was in the store. Sorry for all the links in here....See Morebiondanonima (Zone 7a Hudson Valley)
last yearbiondanonima (Zone 7a Hudson Valley)
last yearJennifer Hogan
last yearSally waleek
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