It is an old house and basement floor is quite regular except that it slopes slightly as it meets the walls. I have measured the angle and it is a mere 2 degrees. It doesn't look noticeable to the eye, but when you stick a vertical stud on a two degree slope it sticks out rather than go straight up to the top plate! Doing a little trigonometry will tell you that for a 2 degree slope a 7 foot stud will miss the top plate by around 3 inches! Shimming for every stud sounds like more work than need be. After talking with some folks, I think I am going to set my table saw on a 2 degree angle and shave a little off so it lays flat.

lukkiirish, so far, there's no sign of mold (sight or smell). I'm guessing the water leaks were long ago, and then the floor just gave in, so it's probably not wet now. kudzu9, one contractor said he would pull everything out, rebuild the shower in concrete and tile (it's just one of those ready-made things at present), for $6k. My KD looked at it, measured it, but has turned a blind eye to it every since, so he probably doesn't want to go near it. DD has the camera at university, but I want my own to photograph my almost finished kitchen, so maybe I'll just spring for a little one soon :) Thanks again for all the advice.

Is that $400 on your contract? If so, how exactly is it worded? Minimal floor prep... Or does it say float low areas, or something to that effect???? He has certainly under bid the floor prep, in order to get you to sign a lower cost proposal/contract!!! You signed a contract to complete the job to manufacturer requirements. I would hold him to the original quote. I don't know the laws in your state about contracts, but here if they sign it and your contracted and they back out, you can get it done by another contractor, and have them pay the difference, in cost, if higher then the original contract. This is the EXACT reason I do not put a firm number on floor prep. Even if you can see the substrate, it is very hard to estimate the amount of "mud" or the man hours it is going to take to get it done right. Putting a number on it and underbidding, causes corners to be cut in the most important part of the installation. Over bidding it, makes your client think your ripping them off. That's why I do all floor prep at, Time & Materials. Since I can't see the project myself, I can't tell if it needs a full self leveler(which is rare) or just to grind the highs & fill the lows. In the wood/concrete junction picture, I could screed that and make it work, given the wood is exactly even with the concrete, as it should be if done right.

Be honest with yourself, you're dealing with a problem that is at least 35+ years old and nobody ever did anything. I do believe you're on the right track. Google search on footer drains, and check out Youtube. I highly doubt you will get detailed step by step instructions on GW for this subject matter. Good luck