I’m having a new home built, finding 2x4 studs with cuts w/framing
Bridget Bogan
last year
last modified: last year
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Mark Bischak, Architect
last yearchispa
last yearRelated Discussions
2x6 versus 2x4framing?
Comments (12)"Our floor plan shows 2x4 framing, if we wanted to switch to 2x6's would we need to have the plan redrawn or would the builder be able to install windows/doors without too much adjustment? Thanks!" What stage are you at? If you don't have your zoning and building permits yet, you should ask them what they require. They are the ones that can tell you what is required. If you already have your permits and they were approved for 2x4 walls, then upgrading to 2x6 walls should be allowable but you'll need to find out from your local code authority if you need to do anything different with them to document this structual change and if you need to change your drawings. We can only guess. They are the ones that can tell you what you can and can't do. This may or may not help you but I'll share it anyway. We are in the planning stages of our build. We are considering and pricing different options. One has to do with insulation and exterior walls. If we use 2x6 walls, we'll use fiberglass insulation. If we use 2x4 walls we'll use expanding foam (like Icynene) insulation. I have only compared the lumber and drywalls costs so far and this is the part that might help you. With my local lumber and drywall prices, 2x4 exterior walls are 21% less expensive than 2x6 walls both on 16" centers. Windows are made for 2x4 walls. When you use them in 2x6 walls, you need to add jamb extensions to your window order. I believe that the prices vary depending on window specifics and have not priced it yet to add to the overall cost difference. But with that said, I would expect even more savings with 2x4 walls due to this difference in costs. If you are already under contract with a builder, expect a heavty change order fee to upgrade from 2x4 walls to 2x6 walls. I hope my babbling helped someone....See More2x6 framing versus 2x4 framing
Comments (14)Our passive solar home has 2x6 construction, as specified by the architect. Not a single builder we talked to regarding the build had any issues with the 2x6 construction, and that included some who did have issues with building a tight house. In other words, even those who weren't too up to date on things, didn't have any problem with 2x6 construction. None of the builders that submitted proposals suggested switching to 2x4 construction as a cost saving measure. All of the builders made such suggestions in other areas. Our builder and the framing subs doing the work haven't made a single negative comment regarding the 2x6 walls. We are building in East Tennessee. I doubt things are much different in Middle Tennessee. East Tennessee is much more conservative than Middle Tennessee. If there was resistance to 2x6 construction in Tennessee, I would expect it here, rather than there....See MoreDryer Venting - in 2x4 studs
Comments (25)One of the other casualties of the idiocy of up or down venting is the dryer itself. I can't tell you how many people go shopping for a new dryer 2-3 years after they replaced the old one. When you get blocked airflow, you burn out elements. And lots of people don't have a clue as to how to replace an element or clean a duct out. So they just buy a new one and wonder why it still takes 2 hours to dry a load in their new dryer. There used to be several threads on the Laundry Forum showing pics of how badly lint accumulates in such a duct. It IS shocking. I did find a thread that showed how much lint was pulled out of a simple direct to the exterior vent. Something through the roof would have 10 times as much possible lint accumulation. Think about it! Here is a link that might be useful: Lint pics...See MoreDo the studs in a 1950 colonial house have rough or milled studs?
Comments (21)I have found stud finders to be less than reliable There are two types of stud finders. The 'simple' ones are just a magnet that twitches when it gets close to a nail. Those are pretty reliable, but you are finding the nails, not the stud. The other type is electronic and I believe it detects the density of what it's placed on (or something like that). With those types, you usually choose the thickness of your drywall and then you can locate the exact edges of the studs. I've had great success with this type on drywall, but in my experience they don't work very well with plaster. Maybe the plaster/lath is too thick for the detector to differentiate between it and the stud? Or maybe I just didn't have a good enough stud finder....See MoreJeffrey R. Grenz, General Contractor
last yearBridget Bogan thanked Jeffrey R. Grenz, General ContractorPatricia Colwell Consulting
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