2x6 versus 2x4framing?
17 years ago
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- 17 years ago
- 17 years ago
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External versus internal blowe on a vent
Comments (2)We did as kas mentioned. You gain the most, as far as lessening sound, by turning the fan motor down. Even with ours all the way down, and you really have to listen hard to hear it, it will still hold a paper towel on the intake grate---this is enough for pulling off steam when boiling water--our is 24 inches above the inducttion cooktop. When you really crank the thing up, and I rarely do as it sucked one of my cats up (just kidding) but it does really evacuate fully up, just about all the noise you hear is from the air rushing in the grate. You can isolate the outside unit (Mechanically) from the wall (Rubber mounts) and you could even do so with a space between the duct to the blower using duct tape or whatever. That way you minimze any mechanical vibration between the blower and the duct. We (sometimes) not always , can hear a slight 60hz (low frequency) hum when the fan is at it's lowest setting--I did not bother to Mechanically Isolate mine--but at least to us it is a minor noise and as I said it comes and goes, if it did it all the time, I could find out what causes it. If you run your mixer inside the house, then you put it outside even by the window, it will be quieter as when it is inside all the noise from the mixer goes inside, when it's outside much of the noise is just disappating into the surrounding air, cept that which comes thru the window. As the blower is enclosed, and connected to the duct work, the difference would not be quite that as noted above, but it would be substantial. Good Luck. Gary...See More2x6 framing. Good idea or not?
Comments (29)Actually thermal bridging over the wood studs is reponsible for a good bit of heat loss/intrusion. For example a 2X6 stud wall with "R19" insulation only has an R value of 13.5 when the thermal bridging of the wall structure is taken into account (see http://www.ornl.gov whole wall calculator). That's one reason foam sheathing over the exterior sheathing of the house is so effective. It cuts that bridge. Done properly it also adds to the structural strength of the building. We've gone the foam sheathing route (as a part of our ADA) and our house is draft free, quiet and needs far less conditioning than non-sheathed home. With energy prices going up and up, it's well worth the extra cost....See More2x6 framing versus 2x4 framing
Comments (14)Our passive solar home has 2x6 construction, as specified by the architect. Not a single builder we talked to regarding the build had any issues with the 2x6 construction, and that included some who did have issues with building a tight house. In other words, even those who weren't too up to date on things, didn't have any problem with 2x6 construction. None of the builders that submitted proposals suggested switching to 2x4 construction as a cost saving measure. All of the builders made such suggestions in other areas. Our builder and the framing subs doing the work haven't made a single negative comment regarding the 2x6 walls. We are building in East Tennessee. I doubt things are much different in Middle Tennessee. East Tennessee is much more conservative than Middle Tennessee. If there was resistance to 2x6 construction in Tennessee, I would expect it here, rather than there....See Morerecessing refrigerator will weaken wall
Comments (42)Kitchendreaming, My apologies to brining up the issue of code compliance. Let's forget the whole thing. This is in regards to the interior wall: There was someone else that said that they built their interior walls with 2x6 which allowed them to recess easily.... This is what I think. recessing into the interior wall that is framed with 2x4 will give you exactly 3 inches and no more. 2x4 are nominally 4 inches which is NOT quite 4 inches, about 1/4 inch short of 4 inches. Not sure why, but that is how they (2x4) come and that is how they throw the term about..... If you put both dry wall and plywood on the frig side to "stiffen" the wall, as many suggested, you need to take away 3/4 inch from the 3.75 inch space. This is the 3 inches left to recess into the wall that your contractor is talking about... If you frame the interior walls with 2x6 then you will have about 5 inches total to recess. You will also be losing 2 inches from the interior of the rooms versus using framing with 2x4. In my house, I NEED those 2 inches where ever I can get it. Your house and rooms may be bigger so that may not be an issue. You also have to order 2x6 framed door jams if you put doors on those walls. Standard door jams are for 2x4 frames. This can add up, even if a few $, if you are on a budget.... 2x6 also costs more than 2x4, so again increased $. We are strictly talking interior walls here... If the contractor has to make an extra trip to the hardware store to buy the 2x6, and you have to pay for his time, forget it, this is getting expensive! Exterior walls are generally framed with 2x6 to give you R value for the insulation. This is a relatively "new" code update. The houses from the "mid century" generally have 2x4 exterior framing. I don't know when they changed the code. Your existing house could have either 2x4 or 2x6 exterior framing depending on its age. Doing all this "extra" costs contractor time and money and you have to pay for that. They don't work for nothing, as you know. I think it is cheaper to buy a CD frig, IMHO, rather than losing the space to 2x6 framing AND/OR paying the contractor for recessing unless he is throwing in the work for free. IMHO, I would not want my kitchen (or the bedroom or the closet) to lose 2 inches to 2x6 framing (versus 2x4 framing) so I can have my frig recessed into the wall. I would just bite the bullet and buy a CD frig. Hope this clarifies a few issues for you....See MoreRelated Professionals
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