Karen: which technique are you doing? Textured wallpaper over old wallpaper? Or one of the others? Rereading my post (after getting some sleep) it reads more like I am asking about texturing with drywall compound (like imitating venetian plaster, or a tuscan stucco look). PLEASE come back and tell me how it went! I have seen the paper bag technique done on home improvement shows. ItÂs actually simpler. Dipping in poly would be very messy and sticky. You adhere the paper with latex glaze or acrylic matte medium. Then cover with the same clear liquid to seal it in before painting. My hesitation with doing that is if someday down the road you didnÂt want such a texture, you could NEVER get it off. The entire room would have to be skimcoated by someone with the skills to get it really flat and smooth. I donÂt think I want to go that route. At least with drywall compound texturing it could be sanded off smooth easily.

In the search for an answer to my problems with Bosch dryer, I stumbled upon your problem. Although you said you cleaned the whole system multiple times, I have to ask if you cleaned the compartment underneath the condenser unit? First thing, unplug the dryer. When you pull out the condenser, at the bottom of the tunnel is a hatch door. Underneath that lid is a compartment for water. In case you don’t see it, just push your hand down the tunnel and you will be able to feel it. It can get really messy and green in that compartment underneath that lid. The water pump is located on the left side of the tunnel. Steam goes through the condenser, and water gets in that hidden compartment and the pump pushes the water through the pipe, up in the condensate container. In my Bosch model, these are the parts that get in touch with water. Maybe your smell problem is there. If you are going to clean that part I’ll advise you to take the left panel of the machine off. It is much easier to work like that. Also at the back of the machine, when you take the smaller lid down (the one with a lot of screws, shaped like a foot) you will uncover the motor fan. Underneath the fan, in the plastic that surrounds the fan is a hole. Check that hole because green algae end up in there also. Clean the metal lid because it can get wet and full of lint. Maybe you already have done all of this, in that case maybe this will help someone else.

Who cares what the builder thinks. This is a TERRIBLE Install and a very poor choice of venting location. It would violate code here. Any roof vent of hot emissions (furnace, dryer, etc.) that is through a roof must be at least four feet above the roof line AND four feet away from any portion of the roof that is the same height or higher. A proper vent cap should be used such as this: Or this: What is on there now looks like a standard roof vent. That is designed for passive venting of the attic space, not a forced air exhaust like a dryer. The problem now is that they cut the vent pipe very short so a proper vent cap may not fit. A dryer vent should have no screen (they catch lint). It should have a self closing flap or hinged door that opens when the dryer blower comes on. When the dryer shuts off it should fully close to keep critters, insects and the elements (rain, etc) out of the vent pipe. You will also also need to crawl up on the roof at least once or twice per year and check for clogged lint. You will also need to look in the attic several times per year to make sure the vent pipe has not come loose. If they wont fix it I would find a Building inspector and ask if that is code. I highly doubt it. Where is the dryer located? If it is in a closet or a small room then it may not have enough makeup air for what it is tying to push out the vent. If it is in a closet, leave the door open. If it is in a small room leave the door open or open a window in the room if it has one. If this prices the drying time then you need to supply more makeup air to the location where the dryer is installed. You would do better with a condenser or heat pump dryer that is ventless than that setup. Here is a Charleston home inspector who discusses this very topic: http://www.summerville-home-inspector.com/content/charleston-home-inspector-discusses-dryer-vents

Old English furniture polish (which this is) lists this product as an oil. It is possible/probable that you can leave it alone and the oil will eventually disappear with normal cleaning methods (hardwood floor cleaner such as Bona, Loba, Polywhey Cleaner, etc). Even a 'drop of dawn' soap in 1 gallon of water would do it. As mentioned above, a bit of bleach (5% solution on wood is about as exciting as you want to get) *might do it. If I'm correct and this is a temporary 'oil' then a mild degreaser (such as Windex original) can get rid of this stuff. I would be VERY cautious when using ANYTHING other than a wood floor cleaner. Personally I would dampen a clean cloth with the Windex and then LIGHTLY DAB at a bit of the dark colour. I would check the clean cloth to see if there is any 'old english' that is coming up. If it is, I would continue to be very gentle with the removal. And for the record, these 'oil' based products can cause damage to wood floors to the point where they may not be refinished in the future. That would be a TERRIBLE upset to someone who just wanted to make their floors look 'a little better'. You currently have a CLEAR finish over the wood. To get rid of the LOOK of nasty scratches (from dragging things across the floor), you can work with a FINISH pen. Yep. Home Depot, etc carries many versions of Finish pens. These are pen-like containers filled with URETHANE. You use them like a stain-pen...except there is zero colour. All you have to do is match the gloss level of your floor and voila you have a 'cure' for damaged finish. And the good thing about finish-pens is: they do NOT damage the wood nor cause any issues with future refnishing. Anything 'oil' (ahem...Murphy's Oil Soap, oil soap of any kind, 'eco' cleaners of any kind, etc, etc, etc) can and will contaminate the WOOD underneath to the point that future refinishing *could be made impossible.