How to remove incorrect Old English Scratch Remover from wood
Jason N
3 years ago
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lindac92
3 years agoDavidR
3 years agolast modified: 3 years agoRelated Discussions
Removing old wood, i.e., original baby canes
Comments (10)Is it annoying you, Sherry. I would not cut it off as a matter of course unless it was a snarly tangly mess. These little branches will leaf out and hide the bare legs of bigger canes, the leaves will photosynthesise, feeding the plant while not flowering and, given a chance, some of this juvenile growth will put on more girth to carry flowers. I tend to cut thin canes off once they lose their green flexibility and turn woody and then I cut them right back to their origin. Do you feel there is insufficient basal growth? With young roses, water and nutrition is probably more efficacious in promoting basal growth, than pruning. I have made incisions in old canes which have become woody and obdurate, usually much more aged than yours but mainly because I not only want a new basal, I want it as low down the bush as possible. If you do decide to cut these little canes off, then take them right back to the base - a thin cane will only 'give birth' to other thin canes so they may as well be gone. A photo?...See MoreHow to insulate a really old room starting from scratch
Comments (7)Unless you provide heat to the room or leave the door to the house open, it will stay cold in winter. And no matter what you do to the walls, there will be a lot of cold coming from the floor, which looks like concrete directly on the soil. Short of tearing it down and starting over, remove all the mouldy messy fiberglass, caulk and polyurethane foam the gaps in what you have, fill with tightly fitted polystyrene (expanded or extruded) and cover with plywood or drywall....See MoreOld shelf liner....how to remove?
Comments (5)Thanks carol.....the blowdryer worked like a charm. Softened the liner paper enough so I could peel it off in long strips. As for the Goo Gone, I wasn't impressed. Basically overpriced orange oil. I slathered it on with a brush and left it for several minutes. It barely made a dent. Had to scrub with a Scotchbrite pad to make any real progress. This stuff may work for other things, but for the adhesive left by the contact paper, nada. I won't waste my money on it again....See Moreremoving non-adjustable shelf from 60 year old "built in" "cabinet"
Comments (7)@ mike - I was thinking about a multi-tool. Home Despot has the Ryobi on sale for $28. I was wondering - I had been considering getting a dremel tool anyway because I need to do things like cut solder blobs to remove the end panels on bird cages and to cut cabinet door knob bolts off flush... Could a multi tool be configured to do either job? I wonder if because of the vibration I might not be able to hold it steady enough to not cut through the wires on the bird cage. Some of those solder blobs don't have a lot of clearance. I mean the standard dremel tool, not their version of the multi tool. I used to have one when I was still doing silver work. Here are a couple pictures of what I mean about sawing through solder blobs. The wire panels on these bird cages are held to the frame only by these small solder blobs and having end wires that slot into openings on the frame. So if I remove the solder blobs I can slip the end panels off, zip tie the cages together, and have one ginormous bird cage. This is a solder blob that is close to the wires: Below is a solder blob with plenty of space to saw through it: Don't get me wrong, its not that I don't like tools - but I'm sort of past using them most of the time, and I'm not exactly in the economic upper echelon. I got mo' problems, but I sure don't got mo' money, LOL! So I'm wondering if the multi tool in my not so steady anymore hands can do this job as well, or if I'd be better served to stick with the less vibrate-y and (I think anyway) more flexible and maneuverable regular ol' standard Dremel tool. Also, here are the type of cabinet knobs I'm talking about. The way these ought to be installed is, you drill a well - a hole that doesn't go all the way through - on the back of the door or drawer where you will be installing the knob, centered over the hole for the bolt. It should be as deep as the holding nut is tall or maybe a little deeper. You should be able to grab the nut with needlenose pliers to stabilize it when screwing the knob on. So wide enough to do that. Then you saw off the excess post sticking out so its flush with the back. So you don't have that long post sticking out into your drawer. This type of mount isn't usually used in better furniture, and isn't possible at all if you've got the crappy particle board/composite stuff that we mostly get stuck with these days. I see a lot of these installed incorrectly, leaving that post sticking way out like that. Anyway. I'd like to use some of these on my kitchen cabinets so I'd need to be able to cut that post off flush. I know I can do it with a Dremel, but can a multi-tool do it as well? Or does the vibration make precision a distant dream? LOL!...See MoreG & S Floor Service
3 years agoSJ McCarthy
3 years agocherioberry
3 years ago
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